Cannot get the car to stay running!
Cannot get the car to stay running!
I cant get the car to stay running, and i cannot figure out why.
the symptoms:
Car will start every time, jump to about 2k, and sit there for a few seconds. It will then procede to just drop RPM smoothy till it just dies. If you try to nail the gas, it dies. You have to feather the gas pedal to keep it running.
If you let it sit for a while, and try to start, the car will stay running. I had it going for about 5-7 min today. If you touch the gas, it dies.
I have basically changed everything over the winter, so its going to be hard to track down the problem.
Here are the mods i performed:
-dual walbros
twin relays with direct 12v power, grounded to the battery
-550/1600
-aeromotive FPR set at 40lbs.
-I am getting a steady fuel pressure according to the gauge.
-xst04s kit (shouldnt make a difference)
-blocked off everything emissions/stock related
-AEM CD2i
-Power FC with a BRAND NEW engine wiring harness
-removed double throttle system
I have the stock map loaded into the PFC, that should not be the problem.
I dataloged one of the cars cycles, and nothing looks out of place. Good 13.5v power untill it dies...nothing out of the norm...
I cannot find any obvious vaccume leaks. I sprayed some carb cleaner around the manifold and the idle did not raise any.
Grounds are all attached and look fine.
the 550's are not leaking.
I cannot think of anything that would make it run like this. Please help
the symptoms:
Car will start every time, jump to about 2k, and sit there for a few seconds. It will then procede to just drop RPM smoothy till it just dies. If you try to nail the gas, it dies. You have to feather the gas pedal to keep it running.
If you let it sit for a while, and try to start, the car will stay running. I had it going for about 5-7 min today. If you touch the gas, it dies.
I have basically changed everything over the winter, so its going to be hard to track down the problem.
Here are the mods i performed:
-dual walbros
twin relays with direct 12v power, grounded to the battery
-550/1600
-aeromotive FPR set at 40lbs.
-I am getting a steady fuel pressure according to the gauge.
-xst04s kit (shouldnt make a difference)
-blocked off everything emissions/stock related
-AEM CD2i
-Power FC with a BRAND NEW engine wiring harness
-removed double throttle system
I have the stock map loaded into the PFC, that should not be the problem.
I dataloged one of the cars cycles, and nothing looks out of place. Good 13.5v power untill it dies...nothing out of the norm...
I cannot find any obvious vaccume leaks. I sprayed some carb cleaner around the manifold and the idle did not raise any.
Grounds are all attached and look fine.
the 550's are not leaking.
I cannot think of anything that would make it run like this. Please help
Last edited by rfreeman27; Jun 19, 2004 at 06:28 PM.
Trending Topics
Something doesn't jive here. In your original post, you said
I'm guessing you mean to 12v through your ignition? The relay is not your problem, it's how it is energized. You may want to use the stock FPR power source.
-dual walbros
twin relays with direct 12v power, grounded to the battery
twin relays with direct 12v power, grounded to the battery
Let's look at it this way, the original power source was designed to supply enough current to run one relay, you are now running 2 relays in parallel from the same power source.
Here's a suggestion, reconnect the power to your fuel pump relays, take them directly from the battery (temporarily), crank up the car and see if you are still getting the same symptoms, if not then you know the original power source cannot provide enough juice to run 2 relays simultaneously.
Here's a suggestion, reconnect the power to your fuel pump relays, take them directly from the battery (temporarily), crank up the car and see if you are still getting the same symptoms, if not then you know the original power source cannot provide enough juice to run 2 relays simultaneously.
1JZ powered
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Originally posted by Trexthe3rd
Let's look at it this way, the original power source was designed to supply enough current to run one relay, you are now running 2 relays in parallel from the same power source.
Here's a suggestion, reconnect the power to your fuel pump relays, take them directly from the battery (temporarily), crank up the car and see if you are still getting the same symptoms, if not then you know the original power source cannot provide enough juice to run 2 relays simultaneously.
Let's look at it this way, the original power source was designed to supply enough current to run one relay, you are now running 2 relays in parallel from the same power source.
Here's a suggestion, reconnect the power to your fuel pump relays, take them directly from the battery (temporarily), crank up the car and see if you are still getting the same symptoms, if not then you know the original power source cannot provide enough juice to run 2 relays simultaneously.
Originally posted by jspecracer7
Your thinking about it all wrong. The original power source is NOT supplying power to the pumps. It is now ONLY a trigger to turn ON the 2 relays which get their power from the battery. Myself, Dragon and Igy all run our twin walboro's with the stock fuel pump power wire as the trigger. There's no draw on that wire whatsoever. It's sole purpose is to turn on our fuel pump relays.
Your thinking about it all wrong. The original power source is NOT supplying power to the pumps. It is now ONLY a trigger to turn ON the 2 relays which get their power from the battery. Myself, Dragon and Igy all run our twin walboro's with the stock fuel pump power wire as the trigger. There's no draw on that wire whatsoever. It's sole purpose is to turn on our fuel pump relays.
here is the write up i used.
Originally posted by jspecracer7
Your thinking about it all wrong. The original power source is NOT supplying power to the pumps. It is now ONLY a trigger to turn ON the 2 relays which get their power from the battery. Myself, Dragon and Igy all run our twin walboro's with the stock fuel pump power wire as the trigger. There's no draw on that wire whatsoever. It's sole purpose is to turn on our fuel pump relays.
Your thinking about it all wrong. The original power source is NOT supplying power to the pumps. It is now ONLY a trigger to turn ON the 2 relays which get their power from the battery. Myself, Dragon and Igy all run our twin walboro's with the stock fuel pump power wire as the trigger. There's no draw on that wire whatsoever. It's sole purpose is to turn on our fuel pump relays.
Originally posted by jspecracer7
Your thinking about it all wrong. The original power source is NOT supplying power to the pumps. It is now ONLY a trigger to turn ON the 2 relays which get their power from the battery. Myself, Dragon and Igy all run our twin walboro's with the stock fuel pump power wire as the trigger. There's no draw on that wire whatsoever. It's sole purpose is to turn on our fuel pump relays.
Your thinking about it all wrong. The original power source is NOT supplying power to the pumps. It is now ONLY a trigger to turn ON the 2 relays which get their power from the battery. Myself, Dragon and Igy all run our twin walboro's with the stock fuel pump power wire as the trigger. There's no draw on that wire whatsoever. It's sole purpose is to turn on our fuel pump relays.
Lesson on basic electronics:
A relay consists of 2 basic parts: 1. a coil (inductor), when energized acts like an electromagnet. 2. Single or multiple contacts that are closed (connected) or open when the coil energizes.
To energize the relay, there must be sufficient current passing through the inductor. (your so called trigger). I beg to differ on your comment of having no current draw on the "trigger". It may have worked on your car, but it is very conceivable that the wiring conditions on other peoples car do not supply enough current to energize both relays.
As mentioned in one of the posts, the fuel pump relays are not energizing. There is only 2 possible conditions that can cause that (given the relays are good), 1) No current, 2) Not enough current. In either case it can be very easily tested.
Of course I could be wrong, it has been 12 years since I got my masters in EE.
1JZ powered
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Originally posted by Trexthe3rd
You did not read my post correctly.
Lesson on basic electronics:
A relay consists of 2 basic parts: 1. a coil (inductor), when energized acts like an electromagnet. 2. Single or multiple contacts that are closed (connected) or open when the coil energizes.
To energize the relay, there must be sufficient current passing through the inductor. (your so called trigger). I beg to differ on your comment of having no current draw on the "trigger". It may have worked on your car, but it is very conceivable that the wiring conditions on other peoples car do not supply enough current to energize both relays.
As mentioned in one of the posts, the fuel pump relays are not energizing. There is only 2 possible conditions that can cause that (given the relays are good), 1) No current, 2) Not enough current. In either case it can be very easily tested.
Of course I could be wrong, it has been 12 years since I got my masters in EE.
You did not read my post correctly.
Lesson on basic electronics:
A relay consists of 2 basic parts: 1. a coil (inductor), when energized acts like an electromagnet. 2. Single or multiple contacts that are closed (connected) or open when the coil energizes.
To energize the relay, there must be sufficient current passing through the inductor. (your so called trigger). I beg to differ on your comment of having no current draw on the "trigger". It may have worked on your car, but it is very conceivable that the wiring conditions on other peoples car do not supply enough current to energize both relays.
As mentioned in one of the posts, the fuel pump relays are not energizing. There is only 2 possible conditions that can cause that (given the relays are good), 1) No current, 2) Not enough current. In either case it can be very easily tested.
Of course I could be wrong, it has been 12 years since I got my masters in EE.
Either way, simply running a wire off of the battery to the trigger on the relay would eliminate the wire in question as a possible cause of failure.
Are you still using the stock map sensor?I would check to see if it is reading correctly.My car would start and cut off because the power fc was not reading the Apex 3 bar correctly(I think it was reading -462 without the car even running)
Full Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Tucson
OK, when you set your FPR to 40, are you setting it to 40psig @ atm. or 40 under vaccume?
If you set it to 40 @atm. you are foing to run way lean under idle. Your FPR should be a 1:1 ratio. You need to set it to 50psig at atm. When you start the car, you should be at about 38-42 psig. Under boost, you go 1 up from 50psig per 1 pound of boost.
Another thing you might want to check is the wiring of the fuel pump ballast resister under the brake booster. If it becomes dammaged or wires broken, you will get fuel for start-up but, you get nothing after that.
Given what I have heard from your question, this is where I would start.
Adam
If you set it to 40 @atm. you are foing to run way lean under idle. Your FPR should be a 1:1 ratio. You need to set it to 50psig at atm. When you start the car, you should be at about 38-42 psig. Under boost, you go 1 up from 50psig per 1 pound of boost.
Another thing you might want to check is the wiring of the fuel pump ballast resister under the brake booster. If it becomes dammaged or wires broken, you will get fuel for start-up but, you get nothing after that.
Given what I have heard from your question, this is where I would start.
Adam
Originally posted by SBi_Owner
OK, when you set your FPR to 40, are you setting it to 40psig @ atm. or 40 under vaccume?
If you set it to 40 @atm. you are foing to run way lean under idle. Your FPR should be a 1:1 ratio. You need to set it to 50psig at atm. When you start the car, you should be at about 38-42 psig. Under boost, you go 1 up from 50psig per 1 pound of boost.
Another thing you might want to check is the wiring of the fuel pump ballast resister under the brake booster. If it becomes dammaged or wires broken, you will get fuel for start-up but, you get nothing after that.
Given what I have heard from your question, this is where I would start.
Adam
OK, when you set your FPR to 40, are you setting it to 40psig @ atm. or 40 under vaccume?
If you set it to 40 @atm. you are foing to run way lean under idle. Your FPR should be a 1:1 ratio. You need to set it to 50psig at atm. When you start the car, you should be at about 38-42 psig. Under boost, you go 1 up from 50psig per 1 pound of boost.
Another thing you might want to check is the wiring of the fuel pump ballast resister under the brake booster. If it becomes dammaged or wires broken, you will get fuel for start-up but, you get nothing after that.
Given what I have heard from your question, this is where I would start.
Adam
I will give the ballast reisistor a look...
Originally posted by 2GSLSE
Are you still using the stock map sensor?I would check to see if it is reading correctly.My car would start and cut off because the power fc was not reading the Apex 3 bar correctly(I think it was reading -462 without the car even running)
Are you still using the stock map sensor?I would check to see if it is reading correctly.My car would start and cut off because the power fc was not reading the Apex 3 bar correctly(I think it was reading -462 without the car even running)
I have a extra stock sensor i will swap in to see if it makes a difference.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM
smikels
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
3
Aug 18, 2015 01:26 PM




