http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=100_2730.flv
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=100_2733.flv

The car was running fine except for an intermittent boost problem and running too rich on start up. I installed a new clutch, lightweight flywheel, air intake, fuel filter, silicone vacuum hoses and check valves, turbo control solenoid, new plugs, alternator, had the injectors serviced by witch hunter performance and reinstalled those. The car now runs as shown above and is throwing a code 40 (purge solenoid I believe but after searching on this site it seems that wouldn't affect idle.) I've double checked the vacuum hoses, the map sensor hookup, made sure the ignition wires weren't crossed, checked for spark with a spark tester, all the basic stuff. I also thought that the aftermarket o-rings from witch hunter may have not been sealing correctly on the injectors/fuel rails so I installed an inline fuel pressure gauge yesterday and got some weird readings. I jumped the "fp" and "gnd" diagnostic connectors and switched the key on for 10 secs, gauge showed approx 40 psi and very quickly went to zero when i switched the key off. Damn, must be leaking bad I thought. So I tried it again before pulling the injectors back out and it held pressure like a champ. Fired it up and it ran like hell of course and the FP gauge was very bouncy/shaky from the high 30's to low 40's psi. Then I performed the leak down test again with the same results, quickly back to zero the first time then held pressure the next. I was once again disgusted and now here i am with out a clue of what to try next except pull the intake, rats nest and injectors and start from square one... Any input is greatly appreciated. Oh yea, engine has less than 10k as do the turbos. Only Engine Modifications are intake, down pipe, mid pipe, catback, RE-Amemiya Tuned ECU and Manual Boost controller
Thanks
Josh

 

I had a problem with my RE-A tuned ecu. These ECUs can be customed tuned to any setup the original owner had, single turbo, larger injectors etc. Also those ecu's are most likely jspec. There are a few wires from the cars harness you'll need to remove. They should be the same ones you need to remove for the PFC. This is only a thought.

It very possibly could be a faulty fuel pump or the relays. Check the TPS and the MAP sensor and also Idle Control Valve.

I could keep rambling but I'm pretty sure somebody will know exactly what your problem is based on your leak down results.

 

Stopped by the shop tonight and performed another leak down test to see what it decided to do and it passed with no problem. Although it was running great before with the RE ecu, I still have the stock one so I can plug it in to see how she runs with it if need be. I'll check the sensors you listed and the idle control valve this weekend.

 

Check the boost sensor on the firewall and make sure you didn't knock the hose off.

 

EDIT: I didn't read your whole original post before responding, so I doubt my message helps in any way. You obviously have checked that sensor already and I don't know much about other issues. It's clear you are running very rich for sure.

That looks very much like a pressure (boost) sensor problem. I'm sure the hose has come off.

Check this video I made of a car with pressure sensor problem, it was just a matter of connecting the hose again and it worked fine.

Forward to 5:30 to see how the smoke and sound is exactly like yourself:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVFO6X15NT0

The black smoke comes because the ECU is running very rich when it can't see the pressure reading.

 

i had that hose come off once before and the car acted almost identical as it does now. Tell you one thing that did happen during the install, i installed the filter to the MAP with the arrow facing the MAP sensor and started the car up (i was using a colored diagram that apparently was edited with the arrow facing that way). Found the following quote in another thread but it would be under vacuum at idle so it probably wouldn't blow any debris/crap inito the sensor right? And it ran this way instantly when it fired for the first time....

 

I pulled the hose off of the boost sensor and the car ran worse. Checked the fuel pressure again and it held up fine so I decided to take everything back out and go from there to see if i had left something unplugged. i didn't see anything out of place with the vacuum hoses. None were left unhooked and no kinks. The check valve inside the ACV was very dirty so i'm replacing it. What are the side effects of it being dirty?
I unbolted the fuel rails and pulled the injectors to replace the witch hunter's orings with some oem mazda's just incase and found that the screens on the secondaries to be not up to par...click thumbnails below



What do you guys make of that? what kind of problems would that cause. i also replaced the air bleeds and related orings/bushings while i was in there. One of the air bleeds for teh secondaries looked as if it had gotten too hot and was all mangled.

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

those dont do anything, that wouldnt be your problem. It ALMOST sounds like 1 rotor from the exhaust note, but i highly doubt it since there would be no reason for it.

 

So there wouldn't be a problem reinstalling them like that then?

 

anyone?

 

Call Witchhunter or RC Engineering and send them the pic via email and see what they think. They've seen enough injectors to let you know if those are safe to install and what caused that condition.