MojoJojo201

I'm new to the rx7 world. I currently own a 2000 Camaro SS with plenty of go fast goodies. The last time I dyno she put out 353 rwhp and 367 rwtq on 91 octane fuel and runs 12.61 @ 115.72 on street tires. I'm some what bored of in now I had it since 8/99. It has 78k miles on her. A friend at work is willing too buy her. But not tell I find another car too replace her. I what a car that can handle and brake good because F-bodys are not too good at that. I also would like something know one else has. I found a black 93 r1 for 13k with 67k mile and 3k on new motor and turbos. My question is how quick do these cars run stock. I know there not drag cars. I also autoX my SS and will probably doing more then that with a rx7. What kinds of modifications do need to make one of these car scream? and in order too I don't what too blow in up. I don't what to had bigger turbos. I am willing too pay up to 3k in mods. With a good setup how much rear wheel hp can I make with a rx7 and what can a run with some good mods. Thanks.

SleepR1

NO, stay with normally aspirated V8 power...much more reliable, and not dependent on weather conditions (heat related performance).

Handling...? You can mod the heck out of the suspension and brakes, and make anything stop and turn these days...and for much less too!

Look at what Porsche has done to their 911. Theoretically this car shouldn't handle well at all, but Porsche has engineered a way for a donkey to "fly". Look at what Kenny Brown has done for the Mustang, especially the SN95 chassis. These "pigs" can be made to turn too (yeah even the lowly Fox bodies).

I've had my R1 for 7 years. It's a major headache when the car's down. The FD's a PITA to work on. Nothing's simple on the car. You literally have to disassemble 8 to 10 things to get at what you need to fix on the car because of the litany of accessories on the damned motor. Just look @ the way the fuel filter is mounted, and that's just scratching the surface.

Twin turbos are notoriously difficult to diagnose, when there's a problem.

All the parts on this car are expensive. Even with my Mazdaspeed Motorsports Development team support racer discount, I still spend thousands of dollars per year on parts alone just to keep running raceworthy for open track events.

No, no, stay with your Camaro. Cheap parts, labor, and plenty of support out there for American iron...

Having posted the above, there's nothing close to the FD's performance on the track when the FD's running well. Very few cars will come close...and yes sadly, the Mustang and Camaro get left in my wake at an open track event (save for a 500 hp Lingenfelter motored Camaro with Grand Sport paint job I went up against @ Road America last October).

It's a love/hate relationship. When my FD's running well, I love representin' the Mazda mark...when my FD R1's down, I curse the day I bought it!!!

SleepR1

Visit my Speed Sauce Rx7 R1 open tracking link in my sig below for more details.

ianlee

If you are planning to buy an rx7 first look around for a touring addition. You will become very bored with the R1 if all you have is $3000. The touring versions come with leather, bose system, sun roof, etc.

The rx7 (r1 version) was able to hit 60mph in 4.9 sec (best test) and around 5.3 sec (worst test). Top speed on r1 and touring is around 156mph- 164 mph, depending if you have the spoilers (front and back) or not. 1/4 mile is around 13.7-14.2, depending on your shift styles.

For $3000 you can actually do alot, unless some of that money has to pay for labot too. First, buy a down pipe ($200-$350), second, buy a cat-back system. I use racing beat dual tip ($500). I measured a 14 -16hp increase on a stock rx7. if you want buy a high flow main cat ($450). This should take care of you exhaust problem. Its worht about 30-35 hp. Next do some thing with your intake. The best system for power and reliablilty is Pettitracings intae unit. Its a direct bolt on costs about $400. Its good for about 15-20 hp. Next work on your cooling system. This is one of the reasons why the rx7 has problems in it later years. Buy a larger, all alluminum radiator. I bought a koyo unit, and it works great. $450. Buy an aluminum air seperator tank (a must) ($150). You can do a computer change if you like, but htese modifications don't require it. I bought a pettit racing ecu for $600. It works great with a stock or modified car.

The last thing you should look at is an intercooler. A good unit that wont cost you a lot of money is SRmotor sport's stock replacement unit. It fits directly in the stock spot,and requires no modifications or fitting. Its worthhabout 20-25 hp and costs $750. then just start buying things to make your car run cooler.

All these units are direct bolt ons, so if you ever ducide to go back tothe stock units,it will only take you time and a screwdriver.

this should be good for 70-80 hp onm stock engine and turbos. if you realy want extra punch buy a nos system, but i dont recomend that. good luck. Oh, if you buy an rx7 use pettit racing fuel lubercation, It really does work. 38 bucks buys you about 4-5 months worth.

sub-zero

Check the for sale section. I would buy this car with a single turbo setup that would eat the SS. There are so many good modded cars going for sale here on the forum why waste money on a 100 K stock RX7 and have to do all the upgrades any ways.

I have spent over 55,000.00 CDN on My car that I will never get back

This car would kick some ***.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=205795

SteveF

I would be VERY leary listening to this advice...if you've read around much, you will see that lean fuel mixture = new engine. With a completely open exhaust AND and intake system, you will be close to the danger zone without the upgraded fuel computer.

xchaos

I agree with Sleepr1 here. I have owned a WS6 Formula previously and throughly enjoyed the car. I too got bored with it and ended up selling it for another car.

You really can't beat the simplicity of the car you have and I too would spend my money on its brakes, suspension, and wheels. These cars are lots of fun on good road courses. You will definitly miss the torque and linear powerband.

That said, the RX7 FD is an awesome car and is a complete joy when all is well. But, as Sleepr1 says, can be so frustrating that you often wonder why you do this to yourself. I really had to improve my driving skills to be even close to the times I would run with the WS6. The FD takes quite a bit of getting used to when you take it to the limits, but man it is fun to do!

I often think about dropping a LS1 in my FD just to simplify the hell out of it. Wanna trade engines?? j/king

SleepR1

I'm glad someone else is welling to tell the bad with the good when it comes to owning one of these quirky FD Rx7s...

SleepR1

FWIW, I've run intake, exhaust, hi-flow cat with only 10.5 psi boost control (no ECU upgrade) with no trouble at all. As Wade Lanham has pointed, the stock ECU runs quite rich. Ultimately my original motor failed from a bad rubber o-ring seal due to excessive heat stress. The original motor ran flawlessly for 102,543 miles before letting go uncerimoniously, and with very little drama (except for the overflow tank puking coolant).

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

Hey Mojo I see your in Springfield Oregon, there are a lot of rotary people down there and your not to far from a couple of the best tuners and engine builders. Pineapple racing is known to be arguable the top engine builder and Ground Zero in Portland has dyno tuned a lot of cars and done an awesome job. With the nice weather you have down there for most of the year (not getting too hot) by taking care of your car and making sure you don't overheat it, you should do fine. I have a 2000 Z28 before, it was making about 340whp, I loved it and thought it was really fast. My parents owned the car and they let me drive it, but eventually they sold it and I moved out on my own and I got my FD, and what a difference, I love it much much much more than the Z28. With $3000 in mods you could have a stock FD just as fast or faster than your Z28 and it will handle awesome. Maybe they are a bit more delicate than a Camaro but they handle so much better even if you modded the brakes and suspension, the car is so much lighter, and way more fun to drive. I dont miss torque at all, in fact my FD is quite a bit faster than the Z28 and much more of a blast to drive. Just get a full 3" exhaust no catalytic converter, 400-$900 depending on used or new parts or having a muffler shop custom do it. Then intakes, 50-200 and a Power FC /w commander 1200. Then a FMIC for 800-1200 a radiator for 400 and get a fuel pump and 1300cc injectors and dyno tune it, you spent a bit more than your 3K budget, but your car will be capable of 300-340rwhp depending on boost (my car made 301 untuned and with stock injectors at 10psi, 340 with 1600cc injectors and 15psi) I ran a 12.6 with street tires at 10psi. Plus with the Power FC Commander you can get water temp, air temp, injector duty, boost, and more information to make sure you keep your engine healthy. With the newly rebuilt motor thats a good deal and if you take care of it should last you quite a while.

ZeroBanger

have money in the bank for repairs and dont neglect maintenance even 1 time (you will be sorry).

lovemyseven

iTrader: (2)

stick with the SS. I own my second FD now. Definetly a love/hate relationship, my last one spent more time on jackstands than it did on the road. They are awesome cars if they have been treated well. Problem is 90% of the people who first owned these cars back in the early to mid 90's didn't know how to take care of them and properly maintain them, hell neither did mazda or the car would have come with some type of video and a training class at the dealership. They are rare though, and it is hard to beat the absolute beauty that the FD is. After 10 years the lines of that car still haven't aged a bit. I still get asked at gas stations what kind of car it is, and if it is brand new. That is one of the best things about FD ownership, the rareness. Anyway, if you want something different, go for it, but be very very very picky when choosing one. Try to have someone with rotary experience check it out. If you do, start reading up, you have a whole lot to learn.
Good luck