Is the calibration step for the stock temp gauge linearization REALLY necessary?
#1
5yr member, joined 2001
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Is the calibration step for the stock temp gauge linearization REALLY necessary?
You know, the part where you make that little 22-Ohm calibration tool? Anyways, can't I just set the potentiometer for 17 or 18 Ohms and use that graph at the end of the document to get a decent estimate of what the temperatures are on the gauge? Sure, it won't be exact, but it will tell a lot more than stock setup. Also, you can still see the temperature fluctuations and such.
Can someone post a link to the procedure, please? I've got it on my hard drive, but I forgot where I got it.
Can someone post a link to the procedure, please? I've got it on my hard drive, but I forgot where I got it.
#3
Rotary Freak
My mechanic has done the mod, and is going to set it with the Power fc when the BNR stage 3s get back .The adjuster and resister is mounted above the PFC in the kick panel . He has the instructions on paper thanks to Jeff 48 .
#4
fart on a friends head!!!
oh, he found it? ill be getting that off his hands soon, then. haha. i got my injectors out, btw. found some fluid in the secondary LIM runners. . . dont think its oil. it looked red in poor lighting. might be MMO. dunno.
paul
paul
#5
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I did the mod. Just jumped those two spots. I had the potentiometer on there at first but never calibrated it. Then I decided to remove the potentiometer anyways and leave the jumper.
My car hits the white and the fans come on so I like the setting.
My car hits the white and the fans come on so I like the setting.
#6
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Oh, and the procedure can be found at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com.
#7
live fast. die fun.
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Originally posted by mor
Oh, and the procedure can be found at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com.
Oh, and the procedure can be found at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com.
Too bad, the site has been put down for almost a month. Any other sources?
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#8
don't race, don't need to
Is it me, or is the luv site down?
Anyway, I set the thing with the resistor and all that according to instructions, then promptly changed the potentiometer setting so that the needle lies between the two cold marks when driving on the freeway, which is the thermostatic minimum temp, or 177F. That way, the upper cold mark is 180F, which is where I run most of the time, using the fan mod to keep it there!!
Anyway, I set the thing with the resistor and all that according to instructions, then promptly changed the potentiometer setting so that the needle lies between the two cold marks when driving on the freeway, which is the thermostatic minimum temp, or 177F. That way, the upper cold mark is 180F, which is where I run most of the time, using the fan mod to keep it there!!
#9
development
I put the pot in place, then idle the car...drive around the block idle...wait for fans to turn on (221F), then turn the pot until the needle points to the High Normal mark. when the fan mod is activated, the needle will sit on the Low Normal mark. Great setting in my opinion. IF the needle ever rises above the High Normal mark, you know something is wrong and can pull over before the car ever reaches more dangerous territory. I never let it get to the high normal mark however...some mind ***** seeing a TEMP gauge that high
#10
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What? I just went to the site right now. Make sure to go to http://www.iluvmyrx7.com
It just worked 5 minutes ago.
It just worked 5 minutes ago.
#11
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Temp Guage Linearization
Here's the link to the original source for the linearization how-to:
http://www.geocities.com/sdrx7_club/Instructions.pdf
http://www.geocities.com/sdrx7_club/Instructions.pdf
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