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So I just got my engine back from being rebuilt and put on the exhaust manifold to start mocking things up. In my haste I misread the FSM and torqued to 70ft/lbs. 1 of the 4 studs held. So I talk to my friend who is a Mazda tech and he points me to some m10x1.50 time serts. I got them in today and follow procedure and just did all 4 while I was doing it.
The top 2 held 50ft/lbs, but both bottom holes pulled the new threads out and broke the time serts. Not sure what to do now, any advice?
There are oversize timeserts, that will still take the 10x1.5. Had one done on cylinder head where the plug hole had been cross-threaded and stripped out twice.
There are oversize timeserts, that will still take the 10x1.5. Had one done on cylinder head where the plug hole had been cross-threaded and stripped out twice.
Didn't by chance use a conventional tap?
Yeah, after some quick research I am going with the big sert to fix it and stay M10x1.5.
Why do people comment if they have no clue on how to fix something...
Go with a larger time sert that will accept a m10x1.5 stud. I would install them with red lock tite and let cure overnight. I've used these many times this way to repair stripped out aluminum cylinder heads.
There are oversize timeserts, that will still take the 10x1.5. Had one done on cylinder head where the plug hole had been cross-threaded and stripped out twice.
Didn't by chance use a conventional tap?
No, a trusted Mazda tech directed me to time serts as that is what he uses.
Go with a larger time sert that will accept a m10x1.5 stud. I would install them with red lock tite and let cure overnight. I've used these many times this way to repair stripped out aluminum cylinder heads.
No, a trusted Mazda tech directed me to time serts as that is what he uses.
Good. I mention it, because someone I lent a kit, replaced the tap in the general tap and die draw after use...a wtf moment if you don't discover that little oversight till later!
My BIG SERT kit came in tonight so I drilled, counter sunk, tapped, and insert the sert with loctite tonight...let's hope it holds when I torque it down tomorrow!
On critical threads a machinist friend taught me to drill a bit under recommended size in a mill/drill press to keep it straight/tight.
Then keep the piece in the clamp and put a lathe point in the drill press and the lathe point in the dimple in the top of the tap handle and work the tap handle and plunge lever together to get really tight threads.
Did you drill them with a hand drill or press/mag drill?
Like the poster above said it was probably slightly oversize holes that caused the first insert to fail, no way around it using a hand drill.
Definitely way better than using a helicoil tho.
I've got a galled stud in my housing i've been contemplating dealing with, I can see what's gonna happen tho, just gonna snap off and then i've gotta drill out an inconel stud not looking forward to it.
Since I know you are planning on bringing your car down for tuning once you have it all back together, I am going to let you know right now that the TCA is installed upside down.
Since I know you are planning on bringing your car down for tuning once you have it all back together, I am going to let you know right now that the TCA is installed upside down.
Chris, thanks! I was racking my brain as to why it didn't look right. I swore the nipple was on the other side close to the engine! Thanks for verifying.
I know you are super busy with tons of your own work, but if you keep an eye on my build thread you'll have a good idea of all the changes that I've made for future reference.
04-18-16, 10:17 PM
