SKINNYCARGUY

hey guys im new to the rx7 world and i just picked up a 93 and its spiking its like 11.5-14-10 and i need to know what i need to fix. it does have a dowpipe and a catback and some other reliability mods but as far as i know its still stock turbos and ecu. any input would be greatly appreciated

Cali Are Ex Seven

Queef!!!!

SKINNYCARGUY

nice guy

XxMerlinxX

iTrader: (2)

Downpipe and exhaust are definitely not reliability mods. Is it a full exhaust, as in there's no cat? If so, you need to get some restriction in there pronto as you're living on the edge. That still doesn't solve why your boost pattern is so weird though. Spiking high on the transition... I don't know what that means, and someone else is going to have to speak up. I do know you need to list ALL of your mods, reliability or not.

JDawG707

well i had this, but it wasnt as bad, but i was only running wastegate(7PSI) an dmy boost pattern was like 7-11-5, i found out my 3waysplit soilnoid was cracked(the thing behind the 2 boost soilnoids), I also replaced all my vacume lines at the same time.

But from personal experioence, u either wanna port your turbo's or get a High flow cat, After i fixed my boost problem and installed a boost controller, my pattern was 10-8-10 until about 6k then i got creep(14PSI fuelcut), i had full exhasut and all bolt-on's w/o a EMS.

Well goodluck on your car.

White94RX

Yeah, if you're on the stock ECU, you're definately risking your motor!!! And if/when you bust an apex seal, say bye bye to your turbo's as well.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

A downpipe is a reliability mod, since your removing a small furnace from the engine bay and eliminating the risk of a failed pre-cat damaging your engine. The bonus is that it also adds performance.


Skinny, this might help:
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

A spike is pretty simple to handle - just install an aftermarket boost controller. It can be electronic (fancy) or a simple manual type.

Dave

charr33

Ok I'm no expert, (in fact I may know the least of ALL 7 owners but...)
I thought a boost controller could only reliably regulate higher boost, not lower boost.

IIRC, the boost controller would simply hold the wastegate shut longer to allow more boost to build up.
But if your wastegate is too small, and cant dump the pressurized air fast enough, then a boost controller wont help.

So I think the only options are to either port the wastegate (to allow more flow)
Or limit the air flow to the entire system (CAT).

But as mentioned above, vacuum lines have been know to cause about 10 million different problems so its worth having those checked/changed if you havent already.

But I dunno...

rynberg

I really wish that people who didn't know better wouldn't post....

This is not boost creep, he has a spike at transition. A boost controller would solve the problem. You may want to check on the conditions of the vacuum lines between the turbo housings and the wastegate and pre-control actuators.

7 BOUND

i 2nd that about the downpipe being a reliablity mod. The downpipe was one of my first mods that i did. IT takes the heat away fromt he turbo side of the engine bay. i then went with a cat back and later an intake. I ran a catback, intake, high flow, and downpipe all on the stock ecu, my check engine light came on so much it forced me to get a PFC lol. if you can see on my avatar im at 126,689 oem miles. so yes the reliability mods are a must.

7 BOUND

oh yea thanks rynberg you beat me to it lol, for me my blitz sbc ID III was one of the best things that helped my spike at transition.

GOOD LUCK !!!

VBOOST77

Bro The First Thing U Should Do Is Buy A Hks Fcd And A Boost Controller And U Should Be Fine!!!!!! Then Save Your Dimes, And Nickles And Buy A Mricrotech Computer If You Are Goin To Make More Power... Trust Me U Wont Regret It... Microtech Has A Plug And Play If U Have A Good Harness Thats All U Need..... Vic

XxMerlinxX

iTrader: (2)

I'd get a Power FC simply because more people know how to use it. As for the downpipe being a reliability mod, I've seen lots of posts on here where people just had to add that one last mod and popped their engine. Apparently the downpipe opens up the exhaust a lot, sometimes too much, which is why I didn't consider it such.

rynberg

Guess you didn't read my first post in this thread. An FCD is the dumbest mod to put on an FD....especially if you are also buying a boost controller. Microtech? Eh.

You're mixing up a downpipe with a midpipe. EVERY single FD owner should be running a downpipe, even one who wants to keep the car "stock".

XxMerlinxX

iTrader: (2)

No, I know what the difference is. I'm running an aftermarket one right now, but I won't run the midpipe cause I know that's too much. I guess what I'm getting at is that modding the exhaust with the stock fuel components is dangerous, that's all.

rynberg

No it isn't. Where are you getting these ideas?

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

no wonder ur engine blew

XxMerlinxX

iTrader: (2)

Har har.

rynberg

har har what? Adding a downpipe, hi-flow cat, and cat-back is perfectly safe on the stock ecu and fuel system. Boost just has to be controlled to 10 psi. This is modding FDs 101. Hell, if you can control creep/boost, you can even run a midpipe on the stock ecu/fuel system -- it is just difficult to control creep to only 10 psi.

XxMerlinxX

iTrader: (2)

I completely thought you were kidding. I never said anything about running a high flow cat, I said running a midpipe along with DP and CB is dangerous. If you do, you will get spikes and boost creep, and you will blow your engine. If he is going to do all three, he has to port the wastegate and then get some sort of fuel management as well, unless he gets a boost controller to keep it at 10psi. Correct?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Merlin,
Trust me....and rynberg, a downpipe IS a reliability mod. IMHO, it's the first thing to do on a stock FD. Your removing a trouble prone pre-cat that can collapse and do major damage while significantly reducing the underhood heat. It's that heat which bakes literally everything else under the hood...hoses, solenoids etc. and then causes them to fail over time. Plus, I don't have emissions, but understand people pass testing with no problems without the pre-cat.
It's a 2 for 1 deal because you will also see a performance increase. But it's still safe on a stock ECU. I should know. Until I opened up the intake and put an efini 'Y' pipe on, I had no problems with spike on a DP, Hi-flow cat and cat-back. I've since added a manual boost and pre-control, for a near perfect 10-8-10. Which is probably all the author of this thread needs.

SKINNYCARGUY

well i looked at all the vacuum lines today and they all seem to be new, theyre all nice and soft, and the majority of you are going with i need a boost controller. so ill give that a try unless theyre are any other suggestions. any suggestions on what cotroller to run. thanks

twisted7

iTrader: (3)

That is incorrect...a boost controller will not limit your boost if you are seeing creep...which rynberg and a few other people have pointed out he is not seeing...and i agree.


i figured someone would of chimed into as what might be causing this....i thought it was either the wastegate actuator pill or the tpc pill in the lines that determined the amount of boost the car would see. now if one of the pills is missing i cant remember which one (rynberg can correct me on the one it might be) you will receive a higher boost at transition. thus causing your high boost transition. So i would check to see if both you pills are on the car first. you could have a nice cheap way out for once if one is missing. rather than spend 200-300 bucks on a boost controller. But i would recommend one later on down the road.

Doesnt matter if they look good. they could have a slit in one of them that could cause a leak. you would only be able to tell if you took them off and examined them all...but no need at this point. just do one troubleshooting thing at a time.