Boost Sensor Question
#1
Boost Sensor Question
Installed my Profec B Spec II today
works pretty good
I t-d the vaccuum lines for the Profec that run to the electrical controller into the vaccuum line at the Mazda Boost Sensor above the UIM. I removed the vaccuum line from the boost sensor ran it into a tee and zip-tied it then slid on the solenoid vac line and the interior vac line to the tee using all zip ties.
I recently spoke with someone who stated that if for some reason connection in any way to the boost sensor was kinked or broken the car would misread the boost completely as 0 and add no fuel = blown motor instantly
should run the profec off the uim line next to the bov vac hose...is this true about the boost sensor?
works pretty good
I t-d the vaccuum lines for the Profec that run to the electrical controller into the vaccuum line at the Mazda Boost Sensor above the UIM. I removed the vaccuum line from the boost sensor ran it into a tee and zip-tied it then slid on the solenoid vac line and the interior vac line to the tee using all zip ties.
I recently spoke with someone who stated that if for some reason connection in any way to the boost sensor was kinked or broken the car would misread the boost completely as 0 and add no fuel = blown motor instantly
should run the profec off the uim line next to the bov vac hose...is this true about the boost sensor?
#2
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It is perfectly fine to connect the Profec that way, although I would have used the unused UIM port, as the solenoid is on that side of the engine bay. You do not want to kink the hose to the boost sensor, your car will not run correctly, that is true.
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#8
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iTrader: (7)
Yes, if one of the lines comes loose between the boost solenoid and the actuator and compressor nipple, you will get extremely high boost with very little throttle input.
I guess if that happened you might be able to pull your foot out of it as soon as you recognize the overboost, but I've never experienced it to know if that's reasonable.
Just secure those lines with zip-ties and make sure they fit the nipples properly. The same thing holds true for the stock wastegate solenoid and lines, so it's not like you're giving up reliability. It's really very ironic that you're worried about this after all the questions of how to push the boost, run race gas, etc while racing. Those kinds of things tend to lead to blown motors rather than rats chewing holes in wastegate vacuum hoses.
Dave
I guess if that happened you might be able to pull your foot out of it as soon as you recognize the overboost, but I've never experienced it to know if that's reasonable.
Just secure those lines with zip-ties and make sure they fit the nipples properly. The same thing holds true for the stock wastegate solenoid and lines, so it's not like you're giving up reliability. It's really very ironic that you're worried about this after all the questions of how to push the boost, run race gas, etc while racing. Those kinds of things tend to lead to blown motors rather than rats chewing holes in wastegate vacuum hoses.
Dave
#9
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Yes, if one of the lines comes loose between the boost solenoid and the actuator and compressor nipple, you will get extremely high boost with very little throttle input.
I guess if that happened you might be able to pull your foot out of it as soon as you recognize the overboost, but I've never experienced it to know if that's reasonable.
Just secure those lines with zip-ties and make sure they fit the nipples properly. The same thing holds true for the stock wastegate solenoid and lines, so it's not like you're giving up reliability. It's really very ironic that you're worried about this after all the questions of how to push the boost, run race gas, etc while racing. Those kinds of things tend to lead to blown motors rather than rats chewing holes in wastegate vacuum hoses.
Dave
I guess if that happened you might be able to pull your foot out of it as soon as you recognize the overboost, but I've never experienced it to know if that's reasonable.
Just secure those lines with zip-ties and make sure they fit the nipples properly. The same thing holds true for the stock wastegate solenoid and lines, so it's not like you're giving up reliability. It's really very ironic that you're worried about this after all the questions of how to push the boost, run race gas, etc while racing. Those kinds of things tend to lead to blown motors rather than rats chewing holes in wastegate vacuum hoses.
Dave
dave, thanks for the info but i think you are misunderstanding what i'm saying
i completely understand that if the hoses pop off of the solenoid controlling the boost the wastegate wil not open...this is not my question
- there a peice of equipment under the hood right behind the UIM to the right called "Mazda Boost Sensor" - supposedly this reads the boost pressure and the ecu directly adjusts the fuel to match, in the FC if the boost sensor is bad or not hooked up correctly then the car will still boost 10lbs but the fuel system will read it as n/a pressure and bam
- in the FD say that the vaccum hose going to the "Mazda Boost Sensor" is popped off or cut, what will the fuel system do? Go really lean or dump fuel...anyone know of FD's blowing because of failing boost sensors?
- reason i ask is because this is the line i teed into for pressure to the boost controller readout
- and i might add, i asked about race gas if its a safe compensation...answers were no and i'm definately not going to run above 12lbs of boost on my stock fuel system...i would never sacrifice my motor for a stupid race
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Dave understood perfectly what you are saying...you are the one misunderstanding his response...
If the line comes off the MAP sensor, the car will run like crap and you'll think you've blown your motor. If the line is kinked, the car will run like crap at low speeds, at which point, you probably wouldn't go crazy with boosting (if you were smart).
If the line comes off the MAP sensor, the car will run like crap and you'll think you've blown your motor. If the line is kinked, the car will run like crap at low speeds, at which point, you probably wouldn't go crazy with boosting (if you were smart).
#11
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iTrader: (7)
No, sorry I was referring the lines he worked to install the boost controller.
The MAP (boost) sensor is much simpler - if the line comes loose the car acts like a blown motor and runs like limp mode. It's kinda hard to do damage to the engine when it won't rev hard enough to boost. So I'm not aware of a loose map hose causing any damage to a motor.
Dave
The MAP (boost) sensor is much simpler - if the line comes loose the car acts like a blown motor and runs like limp mode. It's kinda hard to do damage to the engine when it won't rev hard enough to boost. So I'm not aware of a loose map hose causing any damage to a motor.
Dave
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