P'cola FD

I bought my car (a 93 5-speed touring) in May with 105k miles and a new engine(at 95k) from a guy that told me everything was cool; that it had all new vacuum hoses, and everything was running right(damn liar). At that time I didn't know squat about RX7's and I bought a car that was gimp. Now after replacing the turbos and vacuum lines, and installing an intake and downpipe. My problem is that when the #2 turbo is supposed to come online my boost starts falling off. I teed into many lines and here's what happened: at the charge relief and charge control actuators (there should be vacuum until 4500 and then boost) I'm getting vacuum all the time. At the pressure tank, pressure builds but bleeds off, and I tryed using a different check valve, no luck. I teed into the line between the #2 compressor and the charge control valve and there is no boost until after the transition and then it sees 10psi. All my solenoids click when 12v are applied, and like I said there are all new vacuum lines. Here's what I'm thinking, No pressure from #2 until 4500 rpm means that it isn't preespooled. But everything is hooked up right, and the actuator came new on the turbos. Once the TCA brings #2 online it still doesn't help though because the crv is open and the ccv is closed. I don't know what to do. Please HELP!!!!!!!!!

P'cola FD

Correction, I'm, getting 3lbs on #2 turbo until 4500 and then 11lbs. So it's preespooling? But I still have the charge relief/control problem. Somebody, please help me out.

P'cola FD

Someone has to know what this is. Throw me a bone here!!

DamonB

Have you visibly checked actuation of the TCA? I would check it and the wastegate with your vac pump. ALso check adjustment of the rod end.

P'cola FD

I have'nt watched the TCA yet, but the rod is fine, and plus as soon as it hits 4500 rpms the 2nd turbo starts screaming. The problem is that the charge control is closed and the charge relief is open.

P'cola FD

I teed into the line that sends pressure into the front of the charge relief solenoid and I'm getting vacuum. What's going on?

VTAOE

Okay. Here is what I may think is going on. You said that you replaced the check valve. Is that the one to the pressure chamber? If so, then did you check to make sure that the arrow (on the check valve) was pointing towards the pressure tank? I assume that you did this correctly or else you would not have your 2nd turbo come online.

If the check valve was alright then you might want to check the actual pressure tank. Try pulling off both lines from the pressure tank. Then hook up your MityVac (or whatever else you use) to the front port (the one closest to the front of the car). After you do this you should plug the other port on the pressure tank. Once you do this just apply pressure and check to see if the pressure is maintained. If you lose pressure then you probably have a leak in your pressure tank. You might also want to force pressure from behind the check valve and into the pressure tank. That way you can test the check valve. If the check valve does not open as easily as it should then your turbo may barely come in or not come in at all.

If none of this helps fix the problem, then you should check the Turbo Control Actuator (TCA), Turbo PreControl Actuator (TCA), and Wastegate Control Actuator (WCA) according to the tests outlined in the manual. I would test them in that order. It could be that one of them has a leak.

At any rate. Thats my opinion on your problem. It took me around 4-5 weeks to find my boost problem (I just fixed it recently) and now my car runs great.

- Cody Anderson

P'cola FD

Pressure chamber is holding. I know because when I did the silicone hose job I broke the nipple on the original and had to fab. a new chamber. Thanks a lot man. I'm going to check out the TCA in a few days when I can get it on a lift at work. I don't really think that it is leaking though because at 4500 the second turbo is putting out 10psi and just keeps going. My problem is that the ccv is closed and the crv is open, which just bleeds all of my boost out.

KZ1

first off, there will not be any pressure from secondary before 4500 rpm because it is being vented, it will only spin. You say secondary then gets 11psi after 4500 rpm, is this manifold pressure or at the housing? this lends me to think that CRV is working fine. sounds like chareg control. build presure in tank from running under boost then shut off. turnb key on and off, you shoudl see charge control arm be pulled in when key on.

You are very unclear, what is your boost pattern in 3rd or 4th?

skotx

So your CRV stays open all the time, during pre-spooling and after 4500? And both the CRV and the solenoid test to spec? This is a long shot, but check the wiring at your ECU harness. There may be something screwey in there since it sounds like the guy modded the car.

I was getting no secondary boost and it turned out that the previous owner had installed various piggy-back units in the past. Long story short, poor wiring meant that the ECU wasn't even controlling the solenoid. Like I said, it's a longshot, but if I can just help one person... blah blah blah.

-Scott

P'cola FD

That is on the nipple on top of the second turbo between the compressor and the charge control valve.

My charge relief valve is staying open all the time... it never closes.
My charge control valve is staying closed all the time... it never opens.

The vacuum lines that send pressure to the two solenoids are always showing vacuum instead of pressure. If a solenoid is screwed up will it result in vacuum in these lines? Or is it more likey a blocked passage in one of the hoses?

My boost pattern is like 11-5-3

Sorry if I have been unclear, I am just frantic about getting this fixed.

KZ1

okay,

check the selnoids, them clicking is not enough. check to make sure the air flows in the way depicted in shop manual.

CCV is clsoed with vacum, and is opened woith pressure, it get's it from the pressura tank. along with it's selenoid check th pressure tank. since you have proven that there is no pressure ever under CCV (make sure you T the right one here it has 2 hoses on it, see manual) and pressurae tank is good, then ust be selenoid or ECU

basically there are 4 components, the 4th rarely occures.

1) actuator, valve, etc
2) selenoid
3) source of vacuum or pressure (ir primary boost, pressure tank, vacuum, etc
4) electrical control

If you suspect problem say with a abv, check out all of its control mechanisms. make sure each of the 4 is wokring properly.

P'cola FD

WoooooHooooooo. For the first time In 8 months my car is running right. Holy cow, it's fast. I never thought 120 could come up so fast. I also feel like an idiot. The line going from the top of the #2 turbo was switched with the line from the egr. Praise the Lord! Thanks for all of your help guys.