Well, after many months of pulling my hair out I have fixed my 2nd turbo boost problem. It was the hose that connects to the CRV off the 2nd turbo. The hose was so brittle it fell apart. Replaced the hose, problem solved. 10-8-10 yippie!! So, now I have a question about how much horsepower I'm producing, if anyone can give an estimate that would be great. Check out my mods on my signature. Thanks all.

 

get an ECU before you blow your engine, which im am guessing will be pretty damn soon. any idiot knows that after 2 mods, the next mod should be an ecu.

your at about 270 RWHP right now.

 

270 RWHP!!! Are you out of your mind! Maybe 270 @ the flywheel. 2 mods then an ECU? Who told you that? If you do the basic mods, intake, DP, exhaust, your good, unless you put a midpipe on. After the midpipe, then yes you need an ECU upgrade.

 

I agree with joeD you will blow your motor if you don't get an ecu, you have four mods. If it happens don't say we didn't tell you.

 

What were your boost symptoms?

Did the Bonez dp and cat cause any boost problems or have any boost effects?

 

If i'm gonna blow my motor, then why is it when I'm at WOT 6000RPM's@10psi, I'm running completely rich, get a nice puff of black smoke between shifts(indicating a rich situation), and a nice backfire pop(unburned fuel in the exhaust)? By the way, the motor has only 7k miles on it. I think everyones engine situation is different, some can only put 2-3 mods before a FMC is needed, and some can push 4. I don't want to flame anyone, I am going to get a FMC, like a Super AFC, but for now everything is looking good.

 

Both Pettit Racing & Maztech said that an ECU mod is not needed until you do the midpipe. Intake, Catback & Downpipe are fine with stock ECU. When you do the midpipe, you add a boost controller and upgrade the ECU.

 

its safer to get at least a boost controller.... any exhaust mod increases the chance of a boost spike or boost creep. even just a DP will cause some... a high flow cat is almost like a midpipe... im sure you are overboosting and dont know it... you are using autometer gauges after all, and those are notorious for being innacurate. You get what you pay for

Im not trying to flame you but if you want to keep that 7k mile engine running well, its in your best interest to get some kind of controller asap. I wouldnt trust the health of my engine with autometer stuff....for some people autometer works, but for most others, their boost readings are off by 1-2 psi... 1 extra # of boost is enough to send apex seals flying... the odds are against you if you keep your current setup.

 

i give you a hp # then you dog on me for being off?? add them up *** hole! ~8 hp for an intake, ~15 hp from exhaust, ~10 from the high-flow, and ~20 from the dp. stock FDs dyno at around 217 RWHP. plus 53 from your mods. thats duuhh.....270!

"2 mods then an ECU? Who told you that?"

anyone with some knowlege and common sense abaout FDs. look on any good RX-7 site. M2, Robinette, Sculdarriani......all suggest the ECU after 2 intake/exhaust mods.

good luck on your engine. all it takes is one cool night and a nice 7000 RPM run and your engine is gone! its dumbasses like you that give the FD a rep. of being "unreliable".

i give you some advice and you talk to me like im some kid??!! i hope you do blow your engine real soon, and then sell your FD to someone that appreciates it and knows how to modify it correctly.

 

uuuhhh....stock FDs have 255 at the flywheel dumbass! you did all those mods and only gained 15 hp?? NO!!

sell your FD and buy a honda.

 

Dang Joe, be nice dood. Heh.

I'm guessing if you have those mods with no boost controller, and are still seeing 10-8-10 with no creep...something else is wrong. You might not be getting an accurate reading...

 

Not wanting to step on any toes, but he did say 270 R.earW.heelH.orsepower. Add 15% for deivline losses and you get your flywheel hp, which should be from 310- 330. Take it easy guys.

 

Swamp, is there a exact replacement for the hose going from the Y pipe to the CRV or did you have cut it yourself?

 

I just cut the hose myself.
By the way, I have a manual boost controller on my 7, and I don't like the way some people on this list have to be so mean in their remarks. I asked a simple question about horsepower, and a get an,"your gonna blow your engine, idot" responce. I know a lot about my RX-7. and I love it to death. I take extreme care of my ride, inside and out. I have never said anything bad about my rx-7, even when the engine blew, or the clutch went out, and blah blah blah. By the way, when my engine went, I WASN'T RACING!!!!!!!! And if for one moment you believe the HP ratings on aftermarket parts, your a sucker. Anyhow, thanks to all who nicely responded to my thread.

 

Hey Swamp,

I am kinda new to this forum, but I have had my 3rd Gen for a couple of years now. I have been SLOWLY modifying and researching as I go. Every person I have ever talked to has said that I should only do two major mods before an ECU. I currently have a DP, Cat Back, and Efiiny Y-pipe with Stock ECU. I count the DP and Cat Back as my major mods because the Efinny Y-pipe doesn't do much without and intake.

I currently have an PFS intake and IC on the shelf, but will not put them on until I get an ECU. It is just not worth taking the chance.

Your stock computer has no idea that you are forcing more air into the engine by greatly reducing the restriction of the intake AND exhaust. Like Joe D. said, a hard run on a cold morning could really spell disaster!

BTW, how did your last engine blow???

 

My last engine was completly bone stock with about 85k miles on it. My AST cracked and my engine overheated, destroying the seals. Well, I'm gonna keep it easy on my 7 for now, 'till I get the Super AFC, just to be safe. Just to let everyone know, my boost pattern was 10-6-7 with the faulty hose on.

 

Swamp RX-7
Would you describe how you came to the CRV hose? Was the damage visible at first sight or did you fiddle with it to find it?

 

By just looking at the hose it looked fine. But when I grabbed the hose it was solid as a rock. I couldn't remove the hose with my own hands, I had to use a flathead screwdriver to remove the hose, thats when it fell apart. This hose would seem to be a likely canidate for failure being close to all the heat from the turbos. I looked over this part over and over again when searching for my boost leak, it wasn't till the night before when my blowoff valve really blew off, that it struck me to check the hose from the CRV.

 

Well, I just talked to a guy over at Rotary Performance in Texas. He told me that the mods I have shouldn't cause me to run lean, but that it's still a good idea to get my computer reprogrammed. He said that the Super AFC can cause 3rd gens to run lean if they don't interface right. The standard intake DP, catback, and you don't need a computer, the high flow cat only flows 15% more than stock, so its like having the stock one one. I don't know about anyone else on this thing, but 2 mods and a computer is crap! Unless the 2 mods are FMIC and dropping the exhaust system! Just my 2¢.

 

Glad to see you finally got that boost problem fixed !! Be careful with that super afc Raf. A guy in Houma was running one of those and set it just like the guys at apexi told him to and his engine blew just within a week after running it!! NOT SHITTING YOU! You may want to ask him for yourself. His email address is freddie@internet8.net Tell him that I sent ya. As for the rest of you guys.....LAY OFF SWAMP....he's big as a friggen tank and can afflict some serious pain! In fact, you guys might consider buying him that ECU if you wish to have full use of your legs lol.... Take it easy on a fellow Forum bro.

 

Thanks for backing me up BADASS! =) I'm just gonna get the Power FC, or Haltech.....Din't you say that you got a computer, BADASS?? If so, what kind?