I'm going to have to throw my own question in there.

Aboot the WG, I broke the solenoid for it doing the hose job (with puma)
So, is there a better way than to buy a new one at 100$ (RX-7 club price) at the mazda dealer?

It looks like I don't necessarely needs that solenoid, although I'm not sure what would be more profitable for me, considering performances, too.
I'm going to install the PFC this year, btw.

-Sam

 

If you want to run sequentially then you will need that solinoid for the sequential system to run properly. If you are running twin/parallel or a single turbo then you don't have to worry about it.

R.K.

 

yeah that's right, you'll need both unless you buy a boost controller, than you'll need only one.

 

how do you do it on a nonseg set up on a evc IV hks

 

How do you do what? Elliminate the WG solenoid? Are you already non-seq?

Anyhow, to elliminate the WG solenoid just cap the nipple on the wastegate actuator that runs to the hard metal tube on the front of the motor that runs up to the WG solenoid. (Red hose in the diagram gets removed & cap the lower nipple)

I'm not sure how you set the EVC IV, but you can just follow the manual that came with it & set it up like any other internal WG configuration.

 

I know that ,but how about the actuator pre control do i cap that off too.( blue on the diagram)

 

thanks for the info, that's what I thought, but then again... 150$ for a solenoid !!!
Oh well

-Sam

 

If your non-seq you throw all the PC crap away & wire the PC door open ~70%.

If you do a search on non sequential you'll get hits with that info.

 

So how do you wire door open 70%. So cap off the other one also then i guess that what you are saying.

 

You could weld it... There is a thread about just this:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=153419

"Cap the other one also then" You lost me there.

You remove the PC actuator & weld the PC door. You also remove the TC door from the exhaust manifold.

You cap the WG actuator ONLY if you are using an electronic boost controller & really has nothing to do with non-seq! If you are using a needle valve you still need the stock WG solenoid.

 

My friend got the apex evc and they said to connect both actuator on there solenoid with a t and disco both from the original solenoid. I have non seq mod and i only cap off the primary not the sec that why am asking because i want to know if my is okey that way.

 

If it works then it's ok...

Personally I'd simplify the system by removing the PC actuator, TC door & weld the PC door...

 

I have one of the nipples on the wastegate capped, and a needle valve between it and the turbo, and I have it all the ay closed so the wastegate should never open right?
I'm only getting 8psi though :-(
Non-sequential btw.

 

Ron k miller thank you ,I found the hallman info.My mechanic can replace the spring in the actuator , that with the light ball hallman valve should prove to give fast spool up with the stage 3 BNR set. The heaver spring will not start to open as soon at a lower preasure. Some people use an external spring hooked to the arm pulling it back. Brian at BNR also has seen this and likes the idea also.

 

i have a question....after unhooking the precontrol and wg solinoids can they be removed without setting off a check engine light? also i have the turbos run non sequencial, what solinoids can i remove/keep?