3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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blowoff valves

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Old May 20, 2003 | 07:24 AM
  #51  
SleepR1's Avatar
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From: IN
Originally posted by rx7speed811
sleepR1, id recommend checking out your pressure and vacuum chambers for hairline cracks, and test all of the one-way check valves and vacuum lines that run to each of these, as well as the ones that run to the vacuum and pressure chambers.

the vacuum and pressure chambers are black plastic box-looking air tanks (one is about 5"x3"x2" and lays across the top of the engine bay, the other is a little bit skinnier and stands up vertically under some vacuum lines), one should be right in the middle of the engine bay with two vacuum hoses running into it, right behind the alternator where the strut bar spans across it, and the other is buried down below the upper intake plenum somewhere. i beleive there are two check valves that actually have to do with the turbo system, but i might not be remembering correctly. anyway, they are all outlined in diagrams in the service manual, and they tell you tests to perform to make sure they all work okay.

if all of those check out fine, check to make sure your precontrol (prespool?) actuator is not stuck. you might need to lube it up some or scrape some coked up oil deposits from inside the secondary turbo inlet where the flapper door opens and closes. the oil might have coked up some and gathered some dust up while sitting in the box or in your garage waiting to be installed.

hope this helps. if it isnt something here, im sure somebody else will be able to help you pinpoint it. i had similar symptoms once (having to let go of the pedal and then stomp it down to build boost), and it ended up being a loose vacuum hose coming out (or going in? i forget...) from the pressure chamber.
Thanks, Speed! These seem to be the culprit. FWIW, Fritz Flynn and rynberg also pointed these out, and I've seen the check valve which is missing the other end with no hose attached to the rat's nest nipple (gee, I wonder if this is the problem?). This check valve runs underneath the pressure tank (black plastic box between the UIM and alternator). I'll replace these check valves ($40 each). They're cheaper than replacing the blow-off valves ($125 each? Yikes!)
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Old May 20, 2003 | 09:20 AM
  #52  
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From: Bimingham, AL
I run non seq with both the stock bov and crv and have never came up with a good reason to buy a aftermarket bov. I've ran a solid 18-20psi on BNR stage 3's with no boost drop at all.

STEPHEN
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Old May 20, 2003 | 10:09 AM
  #53  
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From: San Francisco, CA
Originally posted by BATMAN
Damn Batman, Is there nothing that you won't powdercoat ?!@# (j/k)

I think it's really funny how most people new to the RX7 flock toward buying an aftermarkert BOV, that costs hundreds of dollars... It doesn't give you one bit of performance enhancement other than the cool sound and "bling" factor under the hood.

Getting a DP & MP or a HF cat would give you a much "tougher" sounding car and some serious butt-dyno power improvements.

Last edited by jpandes; May 20, 2003 at 10:16 AM.
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Old May 21, 2003 | 06:29 AM
  #54  
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From: Palm Beach FL
Since it was free!

Mount the BOV as close to the engine as you can
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Old Jul 5, 2003 | 04:10 PM
  #55  
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From: Dodgers
my 2 cents

i performed the "pull the bov from the hose"

its nice and loud. im really afraid of coppers just passing by and noticing something. ive had it on for a little more then a week, and im thinking about connecting the hose and the bov again. but im 50/50 on what im gona do. its so damn sweet $
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