To simplify yes as long as you get the 93-95 rx7 adapter for that Bov it should work with your stock rubber bov hose. Any flange/pipe that fit the bov and the rubber hose/piping should work yes. There's nothing special about the 93-95 rx7 adapter other than they give you a special adapter so that the BOV can attach to the stock rubber hose where the BOV goes. If I'm losing you in my explaination then PM and I'll try to explain better.



p.s. It's not a retarded mod, just and unessecary mod for a stock TT car. I can't blame you for using it since it's free.

 

I think Ive seen pics of that adapter before. it basically has an opening that fits inside the rubber hose. I was just confused about what the elbow pipe was. Anyhow, Ive been having trouble finding it online, however, thx for the help.

 

Yes it's just a simple adapter, that't it. If I find one I'll let you know. I thought they used to sell the adapter seperatly but you may have to call a couple places and ask if they can get you just the adapter. Maybe even call the Manufactuers USA office and see if they sell it seperate. If they can't then you may have to use your imagination and try to make something that will work.

 

I have a turboxs bov h-rfl. Just take it into any muffler shop and they could weld the adapter on to a smaller one to fit the stock plastic hose. Simple and cost was 20.00 for me. Sounds awesome. Way louder than my cheesy greddy type-s i had before. Blows off loud even under low boost/3000 rpm. High boost it whistles just like a HKS but louder. Definitely a head turner.

 

I have the HKS SS and love it.

I heard that you can adjust the sound by tightening a screw........ never tried it.

Also, there is supposed to be 2 other fins that you can buy from HKS to modify these sounds.......

 

Just a quick check does the Arrow on the Stock BOV point the flow of the air going out to atmosphere or going in from the air intake?

 

I have that one and am COMPLETELY happy with how loud it is.
you can adjust the noise by the screw also....

 

So which of the 2 hoses is the bov and which one isn't?
The top or bottom one?

 

bottom hose is the bov. top one is the crv.

and, isnt tightening or adjusting the screw on the top going to vary the amount of air it lets out, hence-control boost differently? how are u supposed to tune it so that it does actually serve its purpose, and will open like it should, and for that matter also stay completely closed during boost situations? there are no tick marks or some kind of numbering system which would help with the tightening or loosening based on where it needs to be. So is it more of a trial and error thing?

 

Sure it's technical name is a Charge relief valve, but it functions just live a BOV. When I'm shifting from 3rd to 4rth to 5th you can hear it releave the secondary turbo pressure. The CRV and the BOV sound very different. I think Mazda calls it a CRV so there is less confusion. I have aftermarket BOV on both and 3,000mi later, no problems. Oh and gettin an aftermarket BOV is no waste of money cuz the stock ones leak. I notaced a quicker boost gain with aftermarket sequental BOV valves.

 

so rayman93rx7, how did u "tune" your valves? is there some specific way, or method to getting it to function as I was saying earlier? or does it really matter.

 

steve you should talk to jim about the adapter he sells all that crap.

 

are u sure he sells that stuff? even for a blitz flange? ok I guess Ill ask him.

 

Hey,

Thanks for bringing that up.

I was wondering about that.

Do you have HKS SS BOV for both and can you describe in more detail how it sounds relative to usage, boosting, noise levels and with regards to noise does it always go off?

Should I just disconnect the factory one to test the sound?

 

My secondary turbos (new J-spec twins) are behaving strangely after the 4500-rpm switchover. The secondaries don't seem to come online with full boost; they only make 5 psi boost after the switchover. If I lift off of the gas after the switchover 4500 rpm, then squeeze down on the gas again, the secondaries come online like they're supposed to up to full boost. The Power FC is set to 0.95 kg/cm2, 86% duty cycle for both primary and secondary. The wierd behavior happens with 0.85 kg/cm2, 76% wastegate solenoid duty cycle, and 0.80 kg/cm2, 74% wastegate solenoid duty cycle. Is this a bad secondary turbo blow-off valve? A sticking wastegate spring? Wierd Power FC behavior? I'm frustrated! Thanks for your help, all!

 

Just a note... To use the turboxs blowoff valve you will need the h-supra adapter kit to install it in your car. The h-supra kit comes with an adapter that lets the valve go directly into the hose where the stock bypass valve is. Personally im running non-seq, so I got two however 1 would be much louder...

any questions about the bov's and you can call me at work... 3019774727

 

I have a M2 intake on my 95 RX7tt and the stock BOV.......

Inbetween shifts I get a "tick, tick, tick" or kinda a "tat, tat, tat" sound from the airbox as opposed to a whoosh, etc. that I would of expected?

Is this normal or a symptom of a problem?

RotorMan

 

How much boost does the stock BOV handle?

 

i am a retard

 

My HKS SS BOV ............ powder coated wirnkle black to avoid cop detection ( which has saved my *** twice so far)..

 

 

 

More than you can boost with the twins.....

 

sleepR1, id recommend checking out your pressure and vacuum chambers for hairline cracks, and test all of the one-way check valves and vacuum lines that run to each of these, as well as the ones that run to the vacuum and pressure chambers.

the vacuum and pressure chambers are black plastic box-looking air tanks (one is about 5"x3"x2" and lays across the top of the engine bay, the other is a little bit skinnier and stands up vertically under some vacuum lines), one should be right in the middle of the engine bay with two vacuum hoses running into it, right behind the alternator where the strut bar spans across it, and the other is buried down below the upper intake plenum somewhere. i beleive there are two check valves that actually have to do with the turbo system, but i might not be remembering correctly. anyway, they are all outlined in diagrams in the service manual, and they tell you tests to perform to make sure they all work okay.

if all of those check out fine, check to make sure your precontrol (prespool?) actuator is not stuck. you might need to lube it up some or scrape some coked up oil deposits from inside the secondary turbo inlet where the flapper door opens and closes. the oil might have coked up some and gathered some dust up while sitting in the box or in your garage waiting to be installed.

hope this helps. if it isnt something here, im sure somebody else will be able to help you pinpoint it. i had similar symptoms once (having to let go of the pedal and then stomp it down to build boost), and it ended up being a loose vacuum hose coming out (or going in? i forget...) from the pressure chamber.

 

"more than you can afford, pal..."