Hey there, I have been searching and have finally decided that my water seals have blown, hard starting, white clouds of smoke (only on start up) and water boiling out ast, and im pretty sure back into the motor, hence the hard starting and clouds of smoke, and it runs like **** for the first miniute or so till the water burns off the plugs i guess ??? please correct me if im wrong, car is a 99 model and has just tiked over 160,000 kms so dont think its done tooooo bad



The only mods i have is a k&n element in original air box, and pfc with icommander, and the cat has been removed, plus a turbo smart bov, ,


I was just wondering if anyone could tell me what mods i can do that can only be done while the motor is out????

I was hoping to get the motor street ported, and 3m seals, and had been told to have through bolts put in to strenghtn the motor for the extra power, and i think the turbos will need a rebuild or upgrade as they have been leaking a bit of oil onto the ground and smoking a bit under boost,,

So any recomendation would be appreciated, thanks mark

 

I think you're on the right track with porting, seals, turbos, and extra dowels. I would recommend addressing any problems with your tranny as well, that is if you have any. What about vacuum lines??

 

new turbo lines-oil lines, get injectors cleaned...to start. Basically, if something looks old or shaddy...get it replaced while the engine is getting done.

 

(1) all aluminum bigger radiator
(2) bigger IC
(3) M2 type cold air induction
(4) SS DP
(5) port the WG
(6) enlarge the secondary injectors to 1200
(7) rewire the FP

These are minimum.

 

^ any benefits to having extra dowels on a stock port motor running stock boost? or what about periodically tightening down the dowels every few thousand miles? have yet to see a writeup if this is possible to do / has benefits.

 

....if your really have blown water seals...tear it down as soon as possible or there's a big chance that the rotors are gonna get corroded.

 

swees as and thanks people I know that the pinion bearing is getting noisy, and the clutch has slipped a couple of times............., I had thought of doing the vacume lines the new turbo lines-oil lines, get injectors cleaned, is a great idea and will get added to my list also as much of the next mods listed as i can afford, 1) all aluminum bigger radiator
(2) bigger IC
(3) M2 type cold air induction
(4) SS DP
(5) port the WG
(6) enlarge the secondary injectors to 1200
(7) rewire the FP

altough Im not sure with the (7) rewire the fuel pump?? does that mean change the wireing configuration of just replace the wires ? and thanks heaps on the tip for the rush to get the motor apart to stop the rotors corroding makes sense but it never crossed my mind lol Thanks again for your help, anu more suggestions are welcome thanks mark

 

Keep in mind that those mods listed by cewrx7r1 can be done while the motor is in the car as well. But #5 and #6 would be easier while the motor is out and apart.

Sevensix: What I am about to type is based purely on one conversation I had with a rotary builder in BC, as far as the dowels are concerned it adds extra strength to support high boost, high hp applications. It's something he recommends on all his ported motors and for the cost it actually seems well worth it since it really isn't that much to have done. As far as being able to tighten them down or whether it would benefit a stock port stock boost motor I have no clue. IMO I don't see it as being necessary for stock applications.

 

thanks for that mazdatim yeah by only doing what i have to do when the motor is out it will keep down the initial cost lol

the only other thing i was thinking about was are lightnend rotors worth the cost and or effort??

I have tracked down a set of bnr stage 3 turbos for $2350.00 nz dollars i hope lol and was maybe thinging that a reman engin would be better but i have searched and there are no series 8 engines that i can find..... latest is 95 i think

thanks guys

 

Honestly, I have no advice on choice of rotors other than to search or talk to someone who builds these engines for a living! They would knwo way more than mmyself as far as the engione response you will get from different types of rotors. Be sure to pick somewhere reputable if you decide to have a rebuild/porting done and remember that you MOST LIKELY will get what you pay for as far as quality goes! Talk to whoever does the build and be open to their advice/opinions.

Back to my last post: the mods that can be done while the engine is IN are NOT to be overlooked, it's just something that does not require the engine being out to do so.

 

No benefits for street engines to have extra dowel pins.
When rebuilding the engine, torque the tension bolts to 30ft lbs.
Do not install the engine the same day. At lease one day later, re torque them again. No need to pull the tranny and do it later. Most seals go bad due to the engine overheating.

 

I just completed this very build. I had a lot of people around me to lean on for the right info, so that made a huge differance for trying to do most of the work myself. One thing I would say is don't rush anything. I had to wait my times for certain people/parts to be available. In the end, the car started on the first try. If I had had to do a bunch of trouble shooting it would have taken all the fun out of the first start up. I am not a rotary guru, but to go through a build is absolutly amazing when it all comes together.

 

[. Most seals go bad due to the engine overheating.[/QUOTE]

hey there and thanks for that I thanks for the tip on the dowles are they the same as through bolts?????? and the engin never over heated the hottest it got when running was 95deg c and heat soak when it was stopped the max i saw was 115 deg c and i was told that was sweet.......... i just figured that the 160000kms on the engin was the cause of the water seals going bad ???