ok, I need help on this. I think I my have blown a apex seal,spring or an O-ring. Do you think so?
The car starts very hard( I have to keep the pedal floored in order to get it started). Once started, it first stinks with fuel and light blue smoke spits out the tail pipe until its warmed up and then its fine. I have a Power-FC and I have to keep the idle set at 1300 rpm. The car drives very will and pulls very will, all the way to 7-8000 rpm with no hesitation. boost hits around 14psi. vac. at 1300 rpm is 15-16hg-in. It just doesn't idle between 1000-1200 and it will die any lower than 900rpm. My mods are street port engine with Hurley 2mm rs, DP,MP,CB, Non-seq bnr stage 2 turbos, Power F-C with com., and emissions are blocked.
So my Question is...why the hard start, the smoke and high idle...did I blow some thing? I would do a compression test but I don't have access to the special gauge required and I'm nervous to drive my car to far from home to a dealer to have it checked...if it is blown.
Any help would great!

 

doesn't anyone have any input...any at all?

 

If you're stopped at a light, is it hard to get going and pick up speed? A blown motor can still run strong under WOT.

It could also be the turbos but I wouldn't drive it anymore. Driving it will only make for more repairs.

 

Dood this is Saturday, everyones out having fun. You have to wait longer then 30 minutes.

 

sorry I didn't realize that...its been raining all day and its depressing enough that my FD is sick. but anyway its a little laggy but not to bad. more so than before I switched to non-seq., but I figured it was that way because it takes more to spool up.

 

We can't tell you for certain without seeing the car if its blown........you need to do a compression test

You say you don't have the "special tool" but all you need is a normal compression testing guage, found at any autoparts store (pepboys has em cheap) for usually around $20 maybe less maybe alittle more....then you need....well read this



"13B rotary should have compression closer to 100 PSI or more on a healthy stock engine, but the readings you get depend on several things including the type of compression tester. The FWM has charts that you can use to adjust your readings for cranking speed, air temperature, and altitude during the test.

You say that you held down the 'release valve', but this doesn't sound like the correct procedure. Screw-in style compression testers have two valves and to use these to test a rotary you must remove the lower shrader valve. It's the one screwed in to the threaded end that goes in to the spark plug hole. You use a valve stem tool to remove/re-install this valve.

You should pull the fuel pump relay or fuse to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in to the engine during the testing. As you crank a fully warmed-up engine without any spark plugs installed and with the throttle held wide open, you'll see the needle pulse as each of the three faces come up on its compression phase. You'll have to watch closely for their peak readings and note the similarity between each of the three faces; then check the other rotor. Ideally all readings on all faces will be the same, but expect some fluctuation. Bigger variations or lower peak readings normally indicate worn seals, etc."

check this thread out
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...on+check+valve

 

or u can do the poor mans compression check

 

could too much fuel and poor tuning be the problem? and also do I take out the trailing or leading spark plug when I do the compression test?

 

im not sure but i dont think it matters.... anyone?

 

sorry man

 

It could be that your car is flooding itself. that's why it's hard to start, and the fuel smell comes after you start it. I don't think your engine is blown. You have very good vacuum reading for a street ported engine. You should unflood your car, check spark plugs and wires, and make sure your pfc is tuned right.

Amel