it started with a big gray cloud out of my exhaust...
and now i cant more then 0.5 bar. i cant feal the secound turbo charge...it runs wery slow...

it have a new motor sound...

have a blow my apex's?

 

might have blown your turbo.. not your engine. Pray it's your turbos...

 

No you didn't blow an apex seal. You justhave a turbo problem. There's a million and one reasons why this is. Do a search and try to limit down the possabilities. Check check valves and soleniods.

 

can it be the plugs?
i took it for a slow ride and i got lots of backfire...

 

Wouldn't hurt to change them and see. Check your MAP sensor.

 

how do i check my mapsensor?

 

by the way...
it have a singelturbo before, but now i have the orginal turbos on..

and i run it with the plugs who come with the motor..
it seems to be cold plugs...
i have run the car for ca 600 miles.. last night it happend...the boom from the exhaust and the rest of the motorproblem..

 

we can change it with frankie boy or avisern.

The engine is heavly shaking on idle. Smell of gasoline.

if one of the plugs are not firing unburned fuel from that chamber will run straight to the exhaust causing the heavy gas smell.

It would also make the engine unbalanced.

Does someone agree on this theory? I really hope its just the plugs. We just drop in a J-Spec engine to that car..

Tomorrow we will check the compression... we will cross our fingers...

 

It sounds like the hose popped off your MAP sensor. It's the little black box mounted to the driver's side fire wall.

A compression check is a good idea if the MAP sensor is ok.

 

okay...but again....who do i check the map-sensor?

 

After des3rtfox and marius had the engine instaled in the car, the idle have been runing upp and down. No stable idle rpm, i belive going between 1100-1300 rpm.

And he have experienced fuel cuts at rpms over 5500, when accelerating hard. Like the car halts a half a second then continious to accelerate.

Could it be any vacume hoses that have jumped off, or have ruptured?

Any clues would be great.

It's a Japan spec 13b engine in a US FD Touring.
Every thing is original except for the Greedy downpipe, Gredy Power Evolution exhaust system.

 

To check the map sensor, look and see if the single vacuum line is connected to it. It tends to pop off under boost. It's a simple check and should take about 5 seconds. Make sure you check both ends of the vacuum line and be sure they are both connected.

About the fuel cut thing... is there a boost gauge on the car? If the ECU detects too high of a boost it will cut off the fuel.

 

the first turbo go up to like 0.9 before it peeks and the secound thakes over... it runs on 0.7

the fuelpump and the ecu should handle this?

 

very confusing the way you guys typed this out

having a blown motor shouldn't significantly effect the max boost that you are able to produce from your turbos
You said .5 bar but then you say .9 and .7 bar. Was this before? The boom makes it sound like an apex seal but the lack of boost says turbo turbo problem

how are we supposed to know what computer you have and what fuel pump and injectors? This car sounds like a hack job.

BTW your problem sounds a lot like a problem with a secondary injector. Check the connectors and if that is okay take them out and look for a crack or split in the O rings. I bet it will end up being an injector problem and thats why you are getting the hesitation at 5500 and it backfires and doesn't have time to build secondary boost.

Good Luck....you need it
Snook

 

a compression check should be first on your list.

does the car stutter under a low load? like accelerating from a stoplight/stopsign? or do you only get the hesitation at higher rpms?

like Snook said, what ECU are you running? any other modifications done to the car?

Jimmy

 

He's running a stock FD except for the downpipe and exhaust. Original ECU in his US car. It's a touring version. The motor is a 13b Japan spec.

He had a fuel leak over the injectors after the motor was installed, but was fixed to a leaky hose. But im betting that there might be a damaged vacume hose somwhere. And maybe not just one but more.

And like snook says, somthing with the injectors.

About the boost pressure, i belive the last numbers did hapand now lately.

Let's hope he finds out about.

Now im off to rebuild a 13b engine after a gasket did crack. . And tomorrow it's upp and running again

Not my car.

 

The engine had a single turbo in Japan before it went into this Rx7. I bet that explains alot, probebly runned on high boost over there.

Since it was a singleturbo engine i bet they have change the injectors. So the car is getting way to much fuel. And thats maybe what causes the backfire causing the powerloss around 5500rpm.

Im 99% sure its a blown apex, the engine shakes badly under idle and it smells unburned fuel fromt he exhaust. Alot more than it suppose to be.

 

the car runned well on low rpm and only misfired in 'high' revs..

its the stock ECU with a adjustable FPR...

 

the same way mine is acting. after drivig for awhile (like on the highway), it's fine. but when starting from a light, i have to reb it up to 1500 rpm to even accelerate.

have him run around town with it. get that compression check. check the vacuum lines, especially the 'turbo' lines.

if it's 'barely' drivable with a llumpy idle/ fluctuating boost/vacuum, i would lean towards the engine.
'

 

it does not pull well at all, it runs like a civic in all gears, slow.......

And it all started with a 'boom' with alot of smoke from the exhaust, and you could clearly hear a diffrent engine sound after the 'boom'.....

 

I hate to say it, but it sounds a lot like what happened to my engine. Loud boom, smoke, no power, fuel smell, and can't build any boost. My car is getting a new engine installed as we speak.

 

2 of the corner apex went to dust...

but now its up running again.

 

You need to get it on a dyno with a wideband 02 sensor and see what kinf of Air/Fuel ratios your seeing. Fixing the motor may not fix the cause of the motor failure. This thing needs to be gone over by a rotary expert and get you on track with the correct ECU/Parts etc.