Benefit of a haltech?
Benefit of a haltech?
I know very general but that’s what I am asking. I recently picked up a 94 with an upgraded single g35. No heat protection! So wire harness is extra crispy. On my FC 20 years ago I did a haltech (or maybe it was a microtech) where I custom made the wire harness. I need and want to do this again. I liked making the harness, it was very clean, minimal and appealed to my OCD.
My question is, in addition to being able to make the harness, what are the general benefits of a haltech? And which model do you prefer that’s not a PNP version?
trying to justify the cost…
My question is, in addition to being able to make the harness, what are the general benefits of a haltech? And which model do you prefer that’s not a PNP version?
trying to justify the cost…
Your car is single turbo. You dont mention ECU.
Are you asking what the benifits of a Haltech are over a Power FC?
There are recent developments for Power FC platform as well which make tuning and engine protection easier.
For me, the benifits of Haltech were VE tuning which makes it easier for me to self tune, engine protection features and the fact that Haltech is popular enough there is a simple harness already available and tuners willing to tune on it.
Are you asking what the benifits of a Haltech are over a Power FC?
There are recent developments for Power FC platform as well which make tuning and engine protection easier.
For me, the benifits of Haltech were VE tuning which makes it easier for me to self tune, engine protection features and the fact that Haltech is popular enough there is a simple harness already available and tuners willing to tune on it.
We make ecu recommendations based on what the usage of the car is. Most people don't need or utilize what an elite is capable of and end up spending 2500+ for fun. Sensible power street cars (~400whp) don't typically need all of what the elite has to offer. A power fc is more than adequate most of the time.
For what you describe, you would be better off with the haltech. Depending on your driving ability, you may or may not be capable of needing all the safeties the haltech offers. Keep in mind to set up those safeties you require an array of sensors. Very easily you will be 3k+ for a utilized 1500 or 2500 just to spend 95% of your time at stop lights, in your garage or in a parking lot hanging out.
Everyone is in a different place economically so if a bill of such an amount doesn't phase you then my point is moot lol. This is the second factor we use when making recommendations. We just try and keep people from spending money needlessly if there's no significant value in doing so.
For what you describe, you would be better off with the haltech. Depending on your driving ability, you may or may not be capable of needing all the safeties the haltech offers. Keep in mind to set up those safeties you require an array of sensors. Very easily you will be 3k+ for a utilized 1500 or 2500 just to spend 95% of your time at stop lights, in your garage or in a parking lot hanging out.
Everyone is in a different place economically so if a bill of such an amount doesn't phase you then my point is moot lol. This is the second factor we use when making recommendations. We just try and keep people from spending money needlessly if there's no significant value in doing so.
We make ecu recommendations based on what the usage of the car is. Most people don't need or utilize what an elite is capable of and end up spending 2500+ for fun. Sensible power street cars (~400whp) don't typically need all of what the elite has to offer. A power fc is more than adequate most of the time.
For what you describe, you would be better off with the haltech. Depending on your driving ability, you may or may not be capable of needing all the safeties the haltech offers. Keep in mind to set up those safeties you require an array of sensors. Very easily you will be 3k+ for a utilized 1500 or 2500 just to spend 95% of your time at stop lights, in your garage or in a parking lot hanging out.
Everyone is in a different place economically so if a bill of such an amount doesn't phase you then my point is moot lol. This is the second factor we use when making recommendations. We just try and keep people from spending money needlessly if there's no significant value in doing so.
For what you describe, you would be better off with the haltech. Depending on your driving ability, you may or may not be capable of needing all the safeties the haltech offers. Keep in mind to set up those safeties you require an array of sensors. Very easily you will be 3k+ for a utilized 1500 or 2500 just to spend 95% of your time at stop lights, in your garage or in a parking lot hanging out.
Everyone is in a different place economically so if a bill of such an amount doesn't phase you then my point is moot lol. This is the second factor we use when making recommendations. We just try and keep people from spending money needlessly if there's no significant value in doing so.
The power fc is a stand alone. Same as a haltech. Less powerful but in the same category of ecu. The concept of "something going wrong" is relative to use of the car. Driving around and living your best life, the demand on the car is very low. The odds of something taking place that you wouldn't be aware of where you would NEED the ecu to save the car....... super low.
High demand like mountain runs, auto x, track use and so on, the odds are much higher and having those powerful safety strategies in place would be wise. The line between being safe, cautious and paranoid seems to blur when it comes to certain things.
This line of thinking is rooted in not doing any excessive or unnecessary spending. Same like I mentioned, if it doesn't matter then send it and spend it like you only have one life to live lol
High demand like mountain runs, auto x, track use and so on, the odds are much higher and having those powerful safety strategies in place would be wise. The line between being safe, cautious and paranoid seems to blur when it comes to certain things.
This line of thinking is rooted in not doing any excessive or unnecessary spending. Same like I mentioned, if it doesn't matter then send it and spend it like you only have one life to live lol
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The power fc is a stand alone. Same as a haltech. Less powerful but in the same category of ecu. The concept of "something going wrong" is relative to use of the car. Driving around and living your best life, the demand on the car is very low. The odds of something taking place that you wouldn't be aware of where you would NEED the ecu to save the car....... super low.
High demand like mountain runs, auto x, track use and so on, the odds are much higher and having those powerful safety strategies in place would be wise. The line between being safe, cautious and paranoid seems to blur when it comes to certain things.
This line of thinking is rooted in not doing any excessive or unnecessary spending. Same like I mentioned, if it doesn't matter then send it and spend it like you only have one life to live lol
High demand like mountain runs, auto x, track use and so on, the odds are much higher and having those powerful safety strategies in place would be wise. The line between being safe, cautious and paranoid seems to blur when it comes to certain things.
This line of thinking is rooted in not doing any excessive or unnecessary spending. Same like I mentioned, if it doesn't matter then send it and spend it like you only have one life to live lol
these are the kits I saw:
https://www.haltech.com/product-cate...i3dXQl-Ttm-03U
and so what do you do man? I saw you have a dyno but are you a tuning haltech for people as well?
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if you do have a Power FC in the car, check out FC Tweak. it adds a lot a lot to the Power FC
https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-for...rface-1165446/
and https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-for...aster-1167351/
https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-for...rface-1165446/
and https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-for...aster-1167351/
I think I’m just a perfectionist. Is money a concern? Sure, but not as much as peace of mind for me. I realize it’s probably overkill but I’d rather have that than not. So, now that we’ve come to the conclusion I’m silly… lol I see there are a few options for the haltech 1500, I don’t think I’ll need the 2500 since it’s a 13b with 4 injectors, unless I’m missing something. That said do these pre terminated kits just plug right into the existing sensors? That’s even better if so! I remember soldering a lot of wires when I made mine but it allowed me to “cut to fit” and not have a lot of excess wiring.
these are the kits I saw:
https://www.haltech.com/product-cate...i3dXQl-Ttm-03U
and so what do you do man? I saw you have a dyno but are you a tuning haltech for people as well?
these are the kits I saw:
https://www.haltech.com/product-cate...i3dXQl-Ttm-03U
and so what do you do man? I saw you have a dyno but are you a tuning haltech for people as well?
we tune anything that can be plugged into. our tuner could get a refrigerator to run better if it could be plugged into a haltech. hes been tuning for a long time and is adept on just about every platform. we are a performance shop that really specializes in full builds but we do regular maintenance and upgrades as well. if you are interested in learning more, you can check out our sub forum on here or check out our website. we also post on our instagram/facebook story everyday with what we have going on.
So Rywire has 2 harnesses for the FD and Haltech 2500.
Stock replacement style single turbo harness that will use the haltech plug and play harness adapter (so engine harness plugged into adapter harness plugged into haltech).
Or the single turbo harness with engine protection features (DBW and the added sensor inputs) that plugs directly into the haltech.
You have to also buy the sequential ignition harness for this option or make your own jumper to the stock ignition subharness (rywire has the right connector in the harness, but it isnt wired for ignition).
I did the single turbo harness directly to haltech for less connections to fail and then I am removing the rywire supplied ecu plug and replacing it with the full ecu header plug so I can wire in ignition, speedo, fuel pump resistor, fan requests, etc that rywire does not provide connectors for. This will make it plug and play without additional jumpers.
I recommend the z precision haltech ecu mount because it has an additional clamp to hold the ecu header plug (for plug&play patch, but works for my set-up too). In addition it has mounting for the haltech canbus wideband and it is recessed so the stock interior fits with the usb cable for laptop.
I mistakenly bought the haltech 1500 because rywire site lists the harness for 1500/2500. had to swap 2 connections on haltech plug to keep iac function sacrificing sequential ignition (so waste spark leading like stock).
Besides sequential ignition, 1500 covers all options available on this harness with a couple spares.
Stock replacement style single turbo harness that will use the haltech plug and play harness adapter (so engine harness plugged into adapter harness plugged into haltech).
Or the single turbo harness with engine protection features (DBW and the added sensor inputs) that plugs directly into the haltech.
You have to also buy the sequential ignition harness for this option or make your own jumper to the stock ignition subharness (rywire has the right connector in the harness, but it isnt wired for ignition).
I did the single turbo harness directly to haltech for less connections to fail and then I am removing the rywire supplied ecu plug and replacing it with the full ecu header plug so I can wire in ignition, speedo, fuel pump resistor, fan requests, etc that rywire does not provide connectors for. This will make it plug and play without additional jumpers.
I recommend the z precision haltech ecu mount because it has an additional clamp to hold the ecu header plug (for plug&play patch, but works for my set-up too). In addition it has mounting for the haltech canbus wideband and it is recessed so the stock interior fits with the usb cable for laptop.
I mistakenly bought the haltech 1500 because rywire site lists the harness for 1500/2500. had to swap 2 connections on haltech plug to keep iac function sacrificing sequential ignition (so waste spark leading like stock).
Besides sequential ignition, 1500 covers all options available on this harness with a couple spares.
fully understand that lol you dont want any of the kits from that link. theres no reason at all to wire in an ecu on a street car anymore. everything is plug and play now. you would buy the haltech plug and play adapter for the fd along with a harness from rywire preferably along with the wb01 and whatever sensors you want to have safeties for. oil and fuel pressure are the most popular. the rywire harness will have provisions for these sensors built in. if you wanted to fully commit to the haltech then you could skip the adapter and have rywire send you a plug and play harness for the elite to your spec.
we tune anything that can be plugged into. our tuner could get a refrigerator to run better if it could be plugged into a haltech. hes been tuning for a long time and is adept on just about every platform. we are a performance shop that really specializes in full builds but we do regular maintenance and upgrades as well. if you are interested in learning more, you can check out our sub forum on here or check out our website. we also post on our instagram/facebook story everyday with what we have going on.
we tune anything that can be plugged into. our tuner could get a refrigerator to run better if it could be plugged into a haltech. hes been tuning for a long time and is adept on just about every platform. we are a performance shop that really specializes in full builds but we do regular maintenance and upgrades as well. if you are interested in learning more, you can check out our sub forum on here or check out our website. we also post on our instagram/facebook story everyday with what we have going on.
I guess I just want/enjoy really going through the whole car before turning the key for the first time. The way this car was hacked at I just feel it needs some real TLC and done the right way. My buddy just bought a 300z, same things mid life crisis get back into it so well make a point to come check you out in the near future to at least get affiliated. Thanks again!
So Rywire has 2 harnesses for the FD and Haltech 2500.
Stock replacement style single turbo harness that will use the haltech plug and play harness adapter (so engine harness plugged into adapter harness plugged into haltech).
Or the single turbo harness with engine protection features (DBW and the added sensor inputs) that plugs directly into the haltech.
You have to also buy the sequential ignition harness for this option or make your own jumper to the stock ignition subharness (rywire has the right connector in the harness, but it isnt wired for ignition).
I did the single turbo harness directly to haltech for less connections to fail and then I am removing the rywire supplied ecu plug and replacing it with the full ecu header plug so I can wire in ignition, speedo, fuel pump resistor, fan requests, etc that rywire does not provide connectors for. This will make it plug and play without additional jumpers.
I recommend the z precision haltech ecu mount because it has an additional clamp to hold the ecu header plug (for plug&play patch, but works for my set-up too). In addition it has mounting for the haltech canbus wideband and it is recessed so the stock interior fits with the usb cable for laptop.
I mistakenly bought the haltech 1500 because rywire site lists the harness for 1500/2500. had to swap 2 connections on haltech plug to keep iac function sacrificing sequential ignition (so waste spark leading like stock).
Besides sequential ignition, 1500 covers all options available on this harness with a couple spares.
Stock replacement style single turbo harness that will use the haltech plug and play harness adapter (so engine harness plugged into adapter harness plugged into haltech).
Or the single turbo harness with engine protection features (DBW and the added sensor inputs) that plugs directly into the haltech.
You have to also buy the sequential ignition harness for this option or make your own jumper to the stock ignition subharness (rywire has the right connector in the harness, but it isnt wired for ignition).
I did the single turbo harness directly to haltech for less connections to fail and then I am removing the rywire supplied ecu plug and replacing it with the full ecu header plug so I can wire in ignition, speedo, fuel pump resistor, fan requests, etc that rywire does not provide connectors for. This will make it plug and play without additional jumpers.
I recommend the z precision haltech ecu mount because it has an additional clamp to hold the ecu header plug (for plug&play patch, but works for my set-up too). In addition it has mounting for the haltech canbus wideband and it is recessed so the stock interior fits with the usb cable for laptop.
I mistakenly bought the haltech 1500 because rywire site lists the harness for 1500/2500. had to swap 2 connections on haltech plug to keep iac function sacrificing sequential ignition (so waste spark leading like stock).
Besides sequential ignition, 1500 covers all options available on this harness with a couple spares.
Can you possibly provide links for the actual eco and harnesses you mentioned?
I appreciate all the help I can get!
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