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Greddy V-Mount Instructions V2 - English Translated
Inspired by @dhahlen I used ChatGPT to translate the Greddy V-Mount V2 instructions. While Version 2 has only slight differences, it includes a new mounting method for the relay box, so I decided to translate the entire manual for everyone’s benefit.
NOTE: For some reason, the arrows didn’t fully render in the colored picture I imported. Where it says, 'Align the relay box bracket to a position where nuts can be inserted from the two indicated positions in the diagram,' the arrows are pointing to where you should insert the nuts into the holes. I remember Dale Clark mentioning that we could just rivet the relay box instead. Greddy's way seems a bit counterintuitive.
Yeah you can drill out and install 2 RivNuts in that cross bar, kind of looks like that is what they were going for. That would make that a slick install.
I'm not using the Greddy but I relocated the relay box in a similar way, I only had to drill a single hole for a rivnut, I was able to use an existing bolt for the other.
How do you get enough slack in the harness to put the relay box like that?
I played around with mine to see if I could get more airflow to the intercooler, but I didn't see how I could position it that way.
Unless I am misremembering.
Mine is tucked just behind the cross bar, so it blocks airflow somewhat.
I had to take all relays out and the cover and I think, don't remember, the body of the box to be able to pass the whole thing to the front. put it all back together and it fit, a little tugging to position it but it was simple.
what did you use to paint your rad/evap/intercooler? I want mine like that! doesn't it reduce heat transfer?
The guy who painted my intercooler, radiator, evaporator, condenser, intercooler ducting, and many other parts was Scott from enginearmorcoating.com. He can receive parts by mail and ship them back. In fact, he’s the same person who painted MikeJokich's parts. The shop is located in Tampa, Florida, and his prices are great, much cheaper than Jet-Hot.
You’re correct that conventional powder coating can reduce heat transfer. However, Scott is one of the few who can apply a paint that does the opposite and promotes heat transfer; it’s called a thermal dispersant coat. Note that the condenser is flat black because it had to be applied as a dry coat since it couldn’t go in the oven (the RX-8 condenser has the AC drier attached).
One last thing to add is that he can do parts with half thermal dispersant coats that promote heat transfer and half thermal barrier coats that block heat. For example, he did this for my lower intake manifold and Y-pipe. Since one side faces the turbo, I wanted a barrier coat on that side. If the entire part were coated with a dispersant, it would actually draw in more heat than an unpainted part.
[img alt="mikejokich's painted parts from Scott
"]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7club.com-vbulletin/640x480/img_1094_b1666b10fa85eb00e16eb1ce0079939388a3d21d_ 99c6db37d9a6bbc582f0de8cea610e1fa8896716.jpg[/img] mikejokich's painted parts from Scott
Originally Posted by Valkyrie
How do you get enough slack in the harness to put the relay box like that?
I played around with mine to see if I could get more airflow to the intercooler, but I didn't see how I could position it that way.
Unless I am misremembering.
Mine is tucked just behind the cross bar, so it blocks airflow somewhat.
One of the tricks Greedy used to get extra slack was to disconnect the harness cover from the body, as stated in the manual. As you can see in the picture below, there are two clips you undo on the crossmember, which lowers the harness by a few inches and gives you enough clearance. It also suggests undoing the harness cover, but I left mine on.
Note: My harness doesn't clear the new slit in the Greddy V2 ducting because I have the JP3 battery relocation kit installed.
I had to take all relays out and the cover and I think, don't remember, the body of the box to be able to pass the whole thing to the front. put it all back together and it fit, a little tugging to position it but it was simple.
I didn’t have to do this; I left everything in place. I believe that step is for the older method, where you had to install it upside down and squeeze it between the crossmember and radiator support.