Banzai polyurethane motor mount vibration
#1
Banzai polyurethane motor mount vibration
A question for those of you that also have the polyurethane motor mounts that Banzai sells-
I recently had a set of these installed on my car and so far I am kind of disappointed with the ride quality. From 1000-2000rpm, there is so much vibration that the interior rattles and my side and rear view mirrors rattle.
They say there is a 1000 mile break-in, after which, you can adjust the motor mounts.
If it won't get better after 1000miles and adjustment, I want to just cut my losses now and replace the motor mounts with OEM mounts.
Can anyone speak from experience?
Thanks,
I recently had a set of these installed on my car and so far I am kind of disappointed with the ride quality. From 1000-2000rpm, there is so much vibration that the interior rattles and my side and rear view mirrors rattle.
They say there is a 1000 mile break-in, after which, you can adjust the motor mounts.
If it won't get better after 1000miles and adjustment, I want to just cut my losses now and replace the motor mounts with OEM mounts.
Can anyone speak from experience?
Thanks,
#2
Full Member
iTrader: (14)
A question for those of you that also have the polyurethane motor mounts that Banzai sells-
I recently had a set of these installed on my car and so far I am kind of disappointed with the ride quality. From 1000-2000rpm, there is so much vibration that the interior rattles and my side and rear view mirrors rattle.
They say there is a 1000 mile break-in, after which, you can adjust the motor mounts.
If it won't get better after 1000miles and adjustment, I want to just cut my losses now and replace the motor mounts with OEM mounts.
Can anyone speak from experience?
Thanks,
I recently had a set of these installed on my car and so far I am kind of disappointed with the ride quality. From 1000-2000rpm, there is so much vibration that the interior rattles and my side and rear view mirrors rattle.
They say there is a 1000 mile break-in, after which, you can adjust the motor mounts.
If it won't get better after 1000miles and adjustment, I want to just cut my losses now and replace the motor mounts with OEM mounts.
Can anyone speak from experience?
Thanks,
Prior to installing them, I had the vibrations that were described in other threads, but not bad enough to where parts were rattling in my interior.
#5
All Spooled Up
iTrader: (7)
Solid mounts like those will cause some noticeable vibrations. I had a set and the level of vibration stayed the same througout several thousand miles. I opted to stay with OEM mounts. Call Ray, he can fix you up. Keep oil leaks off of the OEMs and they will last.
Later
Later
#6
I show records of building you an engine a few years ago, but not selling you any mounts. Maybe, that has been misfiled..
Here is a complete thread discussing mounts, vibrations, and the causes. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/replacing-engine-mounts-809217/
Firstly, are you sure they are installed correctly? The phrase "I had a set of these installed..." implies that you did not do the work yourself.
Secondly, what other mods do you have if any? LW flywheel? How many miles are on your car? What condition are the diff mounts? Replacing just the motor mounts and keeping worn out diff mounts has a higher likelihood of transmitting vibration as the engine mounts are now trying to compensate for all the drive line slop.
The mounts do need to break-in, and if the rest of your car checks out then the vibration will dissipate. However from your description of the vibration it sounds like the mounts have unmasked a different problem that needs fixing. The initial vibration should not be excessive, it may be noticeable but certainly not extreme.
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 02-02-09 at 07:04 AM.
#7
I replaced the diff mounts less than 5k miles ago with superPro polyurethane bushings which felt great.
I had the work done at Lucky7 Racing along with a new OEM short block. I am pretty sure they know how to install motor mounts.
As far as other mods, everything else is stock, including the flywheel. I have 119k miles on my car, but everything else was running perfectly before I brought the car in for repairs.
How can the mounts be adjusted while they are on the vehicle?
I had the work done at Lucky7 Racing along with a new OEM short block. I am pretty sure they know how to install motor mounts.
As far as other mods, everything else is stock, including the flywheel. I have 119k miles on my car, but everything else was running perfectly before I brought the car in for repairs.
How can the mounts be adjusted while they are on the vehicle?
I show records of building you an engine a few years ago, but not selling you any mounts. Maybe, that has been misfiled..
Here is a complete thread discussing mounts, vibrations, and the causes. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=809217
Firstly, are you sure they are installed correctly? The phrase "I had a set of these installed..." implies that you did not do the work yourself.
Secondly, what other mods do you have if any? LW flywheel? How many miles are on your car? What condition are the diff mounts? Replacing just the motor mounts and keeping worn out diff mounts has a higher likelihood of transmitting vibration as the engine mounts are now trying to compensate for all the drive line slop.
The mounts do need to break-in, and if the rest of your car checks out then the vibration will dissipate. However from your description of the vibration it sounds like the mounts have unmasked a different problem that needs fixing. The initial vibration should not be excessive, it may be noticeable but certainly not extreme.
Here is a complete thread discussing mounts, vibrations, and the causes. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=809217
Firstly, are you sure they are installed correctly? The phrase "I had a set of these installed..." implies that you did not do the work yourself.
Secondly, what other mods do you have if any? LW flywheel? How many miles are on your car? What condition are the diff mounts? Replacing just the motor mounts and keeping worn out diff mounts has a higher likelihood of transmitting vibration as the engine mounts are now trying to compensate for all the drive line slop.
The mounts do need to break-in, and if the rest of your car checks out then the vibration will dissipate. However from your description of the vibration it sounds like the mounts have unmasked a different problem that needs fixing. The initial vibration should not be excessive, it may be noticeable but certainly not extreme.
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#8
Instructions http://www.banzai-racing.com/FDPMM_i...structions.htm which were also included with the product, you would be shocked at how many "shops" do not know how to read instructions to install or adjust mounts....
6. Adjustment: Polyurethane mounts will cause slightly more vibration than stock but significantly less than solid mounts. Stiffness can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the amount of compression on the polyurethane. This is achieved by loosening the nut and tightening the bolt to increase stiffness, or loosening bolt to reduce stiffness. Then re-tighten the nut.
Recommended setting for initial installation is to ensure that polyurethane is fully compressed, as the polyurethane will 'loosen up' during break-in period (approximately 1000 miles). Then adjust if needed.
Mounts are not shipped fully compressed, this is up to the installer to do. Our mounts have an internal nut that allows for adjustment.
6. Adjustment: Polyurethane mounts will cause slightly more vibration than stock but significantly less than solid mounts. Stiffness can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the amount of compression on the polyurethane. This is achieved by loosening the nut and tightening the bolt to increase stiffness, or loosening bolt to reduce stiffness. Then re-tighten the nut.
Recommended setting for initial installation is to ensure that polyurethane is fully compressed, as the polyurethane will 'loosen up' during break-in period (approximately 1000 miles). Then adjust if needed.
Mounts are not shipped fully compressed, this is up to the installer to do. Our mounts have an internal nut that allows for adjustment.
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 02-02-09 at 11:43 AM.
#9
40k worth of fail
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I installed banzai's mounts about 400 miles ago, and already i have noticed a decrease in harshness and vibration. i would give it a while before you make your decision. when you go back to oem mounts you will miss the stiff precise feel the poly urethane mounts provide. i will never go back.
#10
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
While we're on the topic (I'll be ordering a pair of motor mounts once my tax return hits the bank) of motor mounts, and instructions for doing so..
What, if any, are the differences in installing the mounts with the engine out, vice having the engine still in the bay. I *could* take my car to a shop and have them pull the engine for the install, but that seems like a LOT of extra work, especially when I have access to a full auto hobby shop on base...
I'm thinking Banzai's engine mounts and Rotary Performance's Complete Traction Kit (Drag Launch) all in one fell swoop. However I'd like to install my good condition OEM ones now and send the crap ones currently in as my core..
What, if any, are the differences in installing the mounts with the engine out, vice having the engine still in the bay. I *could* take my car to a shop and have them pull the engine for the install, but that seems like a LOT of extra work, especially when I have access to a full auto hobby shop on base...
I'm thinking Banzai's engine mounts and Rotary Performance's Complete Traction Kit (Drag Launch) all in one fell swoop. However I'd like to install my good condition OEM ones now and send the crap ones currently in as my core..
#11
While we're on the topic (I'll be ordering a pair of motor mounts once my tax return hits the bank) of motor mounts, and instructions for doing so..
What, if any, are the differences in installing the mounts with the engine out, vice having the engine still in the bay. I *could* take my car to a shop and have them pull the engine for the install, but that seems like a LOT of extra work, especially when I have access to a full auto hobby shop on base...
I'm thinking Banzai's engine mounts and Rotary Performance's Complete Traction Kit (Drag Launch) all in one fell swoop. However I'd like to install my good condition OEM ones now and send the crap ones currently in as my core..
What, if any, are the differences in installing the mounts with the engine out, vice having the engine still in the bay. I *could* take my car to a shop and have them pull the engine for the install, but that seems like a LOT of extra work, especially when I have access to a full auto hobby shop on base...
I'm thinking Banzai's engine mounts and Rotary Performance's Complete Traction Kit (Drag Launch) all in one fell swoop. However I'd like to install my good condition OEM ones now and send the crap ones currently in as my core..
That was covered in last months thread which you were a part of. Jack up the engine via the trans and unbolt the mounts. Install new ones. Drop jack under trans. Tighten mount hardware. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=809217
Absolutely no reason to remove the engine to install mounts.
If you have two steel brackets, which you should if you have two sets of OEM brackets, then don't bother sending in cores, just buy the mounts.
#12
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
That was covered in last months thread which you were a part of. Jack up the engine via the trans and unbolt the mounts. Install new ones. Drop jack under trans. Tighten mount hardware. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=809217
Absolutely no reason to remove the engine to install mounts.
If you have two steel brackets, which you should if you have two sets of OEM brackets, then don't bother sending in cores, just buy the mounts.
Absolutely no reason to remove the engine to install mounts.
If you have two steel brackets, which you should if you have two sets of OEM brackets, then don't bother sending in cores, just buy the mounts.
Thanks a bunch. I'll be off in the corner helping myself to lunch.. main dish for me today is "newb", with a side of "owned"
Thanks a bunch! I knew I'd seen something on it recently, didn't pull that thread when I searched though maybe I was just too tired, lol.
#13
TANSTAFL
iTrader: (13)
Those are always going to transmit vibration no matter how they are installed or broken in. They only damp half of the vibration. The "push" motion is damped by the urethane, while the "pull" motion of the vibration is transmitted to the subframe by the bolt.
One solution would be to augment the mounts. You would need longer bolts and a disc of urethane mount material on the opposite side of the subframe as the supplied urethane pieces sit. This is discussed here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/motor-mounts-521858/ and https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/motor-mount-163324/
One solution would be to augment the mounts. You would need longer bolts and a disc of urethane mount material on the opposite side of the subframe as the supplied urethane pieces sit. This is discussed here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/motor-mounts-521858/ and https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/motor-mount-163324/
#14
Those are always going to transmit vibration no matter how they are installed or broken in. They only damp half of the vibration. The "push" motion is damped by the urethane, while the "pull" motion of the vibration is transmitted to the subframe by the bolt.
One solution would be to augment the mounts. You would need longer bolts and a disc of urethane mount material on the opposite side of the subframe as the supplied urethane pieces sit. This is discussed here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=521858 and https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=163324
One solution would be to augment the mounts. You would need longer bolts and a disc of urethane mount material on the opposite side of the subframe as the supplied urethane pieces sit. This is discussed here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=521858 and https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=163324
#15
I will continue to break them in and post back with my post-break in ride quality. Thanks for everyone's feedback so far.
It is just not necessary to install any poly under the subframe with our mounts, but thanks for your input. As you can see from the testimonials of the 4-5 people that have them installed in this thread that have broken them in and the initial vibration has dissipated as laid out in our break in instructions. We have been manufacturing , selling , and installing these mounts for over 5 years with great success. I do appreciate your input, thank you.
#16
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
Different people have different tolerances for noise/vibration/harshness. What may bother one person may be fine for another. You could always look into a different style/brand mount. The superpro are probably the one of the better ones but nearly impossible to get. There are other options as well.
#17
TANSTAFL
iTrader: (13)
I wasn't posting up for you. You didn't start this thread. My post was for people using this style of mount who are unhappy with it's vibration damping performance.
Other members found an inexpensive and effective engine mount setup and I was sharing that.
#18
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (16)
This thread makes me LOL. Though I'd revive it. These engine mounts have a bolt that directly connects the engine to the frame. Who wouldn't expect increased vibrations? Break in time? LOL, the vibrations will be harsher and they won't go away. If anything you'll get used to them. If you daily drive your car I'd stay with stock mounts. If you're worried about ripping the driver's side engine mount then invest in an engine torque brace. Solid mounts should only be used on car's without interiors IMHO.
#19
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This thread makes me LOL. Though I'd revive it. These engine mounts have a bolt that directly connects the engine to the frame. Who wouldn't expect increased vibrations? Break in time? LOL, the vibrations will be harsher and they won't go away. If anything you'll get used to them. If you daily drive your car I'd stay with stock mounts. If you're worried about ripping the driver's side engine mount then invest in an engine torque brace. Solid mounts should only be used on car's without interiors IMHO.
The factory mounts have the same bolt, you use the same brackets when you install poly mounts.
After you drive the car 500-1000 miles and the urethane gets broken in and softens, you will notice less vibration than you experience on the initial install.
I have put about 1500 miles on my urethane mounts (in my street driven fd) and the vibrations and rattles have disappeared almost completely. I absolutely love the poly mounts, its one of the best mods ive ever done to the fd. I will never use stock mounts again.
#20
gross polluter
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I have a set of really firm poly mounts similar to the Monzai in my FD and notice very little vibration. There is just a little when I am first letting out the clutch from a stop. A number of our customers have gone with the Bonzai and I haven't heard any complaints about vibrations from anybody. If you want a much softer poly mount comparable to OEM there is the Noltec but I think your problems lie elsewhere. If you are getting that much vibration I would look into the cause of it.