From Automatic to Manual swap on FD
01-22-08, 09:19 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
From Automatic to Manual swap on FD
I got Automatic Rx7 “93. And I’m thinking about doing a swat to manual transmission. I bought wrecked manual rx7 same year, but not sure what to replace. What parts need to be swapped? What king of wiring to do? I see the information here for second gen, but not for FD. Guys help me out on this with information. tnx
01-23-08, 07:27 PM
#6
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...wiring+harness
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/automatic-manual-swap-how-hard-anyone-done-96658/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/so-how-many-people-have-done-auto-manual-swap-258966/
and FAQ---->https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/automatic-manual-swap-how-hard-anyone-done-96658/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/so-how-many-people-have-done-auto-manual-swap-258966/
and FAQ---->https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
01-23-08, 07:54 PM
#7
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I did an auto to manual swap and used the auto harness - with a power fc - and only had minor issues with the backup lights. I can't speak to using a stock ECU which I would think would be a nightmare!
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01-23-08, 07:58 PM
#8
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tnx for the page links that you game me.
IM a nooby to rx7 and to this wed-site. there is some very good technical information here on a swaps. I just could not find them before.
IM a nooby to rx7 and to this wed-site. there is some very good technical information here on a swaps. I just could not find them before.
01-23-08, 08:35 PM
#9
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apparently its an easy swap, hinson supercars claims to buy an auto fd for there ls 6 speed swap cause the price is soo much better.. if there doing that, then there cant be much to the swap.. good luck!!
06-08-10, 10:23 AM
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This is a little off subject but some of the older threads I can't post to. Has anyone re-used the trans oil cooler as a secondary engine oil cooler when doing the swap?
08-29-10, 08:08 PM
#15
If you can't read a wiring diagram or generally have a lack of electrical experience I would not recommend this swap.
It is not easy to get the wiring right. I did this swap on my first FD when I was 19 with the help of a friend who was/is a mechanic. Swapping the mechanical stuff is the easiest part. Sure my car ran and worked, but there were so many other things that didn't work right it wasn't worth it.
It is not easy to get the wiring right. I did this swap on my first FD when I was 19 with the help of a friend who was/is a mechanic. Swapping the mechanical stuff is the easiest part. Sure my car ran and worked, but there were so many other things that didn't work right it wasn't worth it.
08-29-10, 09:06 PM
#17
Originally Posted by RLaoFD
Originally Posted by *****
Help me out here. Automamtic Harness on a 5 Speed Swap:
1. Speed sensor is plug and play?
2. Wire the two thick wires together (inhibitor wiring?) on the big plug that went to the auto tranny to start the car?
3. What plug on the auto harness is the reverse lighting and where do I attach it to the manual tranny.
4. I'm going to remove my cruise control because I never used it. I don't need the neutral switch or 1-2 switch enabled or even to wire it up?
Thanks in advance.
*****
1. Speed sensor is plug and play?
2. Wire the two thick wires together (inhibitor wiring?) on the big plug that went to the auto tranny to start the car?
3. What plug on the auto harness is the reverse lighting and where do I attach it to the manual tranny.
4. I'm going to remove my cruise control because I never used it. I don't need the neutral switch or 1-2 switch enabled or even to wire it up?
Thanks in advance.
*****
1. Yes, the speed sensor is plug and play. Simply find the matching harnesses from the Chassis and Tranny and plug them together. Speed it off by a couple of MPH but who cares.
2. The huge connector is blatantly obvious with the 2 big prongs. If you can't find it, its located on the drivers side in the general area of the bell housing. you have 2 choices here. If you don't care about engaging the clutch to start the car every time, just solder a wire from prong to prong. If you want to engage the clutch before starting the car as a safety device, wire the wires through the tranny tunnel into the car and to the clutch inhibitor switch on the clutch pedal assembly. Order/color doesn't matter because it just needs continuity to start. I found that you get the "click-click-start" problem wire wiring the inhibitor switch, so you may want to just bypass it for a 1st time guaranteed start up.
3. There is a reverse harness on the Tranny. Find the one thats not the speed sensor and that should be it. ( or maybe another one but I don't recall there being any more harnesses.) You want to attach a wire from them (the harness on the transmission is FEMALE) to the same big harness that the 2 big prongs are located on near the bellhousing area. IIRC if the 2 big prongs are on the top side when u look at it, the 2 bottom right small prongs are responsible for reverse. Again, Think all you need is continuity of current so order does not matter. If it doesn't work I just kept testing prongs. I'm pretty sure those are the ones though.
4. I removed my CC as well. It looks a lot cleaner when not there and accessing the master cylinder and firewall holes for my gauge wiring/amp power cable is much easier. Any other wiring than the ones I have described above don't even need to be touched in order for the car to be drivable.
Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Randy
08-29-10, 09:06 PM
#18
If you can't read a wiring diagram or generally have a lack of electrical experience I would not recommend this swap.
It is not easy to get the wiring right. I did this swap on my first FD when I was 19 with the help of a friend who was/is a mechanic. Swapping the mechanical stuff is the easiest part. Sure my car ran and worked, but there were so many other things that didn't work right it wasn't worth it.
It is not easy to get the wiring right. I did this swap on my first FD when I was 19 with the help of a friend who was/is a mechanic. Swapping the mechanical stuff is the easiest part. Sure my car ran and worked, but there were so many other things that didn't work right it wasn't worth it.
08-29-10, 09:46 PM
#21
You are leading people to believe it's as easy as 1-2-3, which it is not. Providing inaccurate information on an automotive forum could cost someone a lot of wasted time/money.
The swap is not impossible no. But get all your fact straight and do extensive research before you even start gathering up all the proper parts to do it.
You can use the auto harness with some modifications at the ecu plug. I believe you also need to change to a manual ECU. You don't need to change your dash harness, but will require rewiring as well.
If you keep the auto differential you'll have to do something about the driveshaft flange. Or switch it to a manual diff.
Also, the flywheel should be a 9.5 or 11lb flywheel to work with the automatic counterweight.
The gauges are different in the cluster, if you want to change those. I wouldn't recommend bypassing the clutch switch as it is a safety device. But you can if you want to.
If you want to do less wiring, you need to change the engine harness and ecu.
Throwing out meaningless insults isn't helping the people that want to know either.
The swap is not impossible no. But get all your fact straight and do extensive research before you even start gathering up all the proper parts to do it.
You can use the auto harness with some modifications at the ecu plug. I believe you also need to change to a manual ECU. You don't need to change your dash harness, but will require rewiring as well.
If you keep the auto differential you'll have to do something about the driveshaft flange. Or switch it to a manual diff.
Also, the flywheel should be a 9.5 or 11lb flywheel to work with the automatic counterweight.
The gauges are different in the cluster, if you want to change those. I wouldn't recommend bypassing the clutch switch as it is a safety device. But you can if you want to.
If you want to do less wiring, you need to change the engine harness and ecu.
Throwing out meaningless insults isn't helping the people that want to know either.
08-29-10, 09:54 PM
#22
You are leading people to believe it's as easy as 1-2-3, which it is not. Providing inaccurate information on an automotive forum could cost someone a lot of wasted time/money.
The swap is not impossible no. But get all your fact straight and do extensive research before you even start gathering up all the proper parts to do it.
You can use the auto harness with some modifications at the ecu plug. I believe you also need to change to a manual ECU. You don't need to change your dash harness, but will require rewiring as well.
If you keep the auto differential you'll have to do something about the driveshaft flange. Or switch it to a manual diff.
Also, the flywheel should be a 9.5 or 11lb flywheel to work with the automatic counterweight.
The gauges are different in the cluster, if you want to change those. I wouldn't recommend bypassing the clutch switch as it is a safety device. But you can if you want to.
If you want to do less wiring, you need to change the engine harness and ecu.
Throwing out meaningless insults isn't helping the people that want to know either.
The swap is not impossible no. But get all your fact straight and do extensive research before you even start gathering up all the proper parts to do it.
You can use the auto harness with some modifications at the ecu plug. I believe you also need to change to a manual ECU. You don't need to change your dash harness, but will require rewiring as well.
If you keep the auto differential you'll have to do something about the driveshaft flange. Or switch it to a manual diff.
Also, the flywheel should be a 9.5 or 11lb flywheel to work with the automatic counterweight.
The gauges are different in the cluster, if you want to change those. I wouldn't recommend bypassing the clutch switch as it is a safety device. But you can if you want to.
If you want to do less wiring, you need to change the engine harness and ecu.
Throwing out meaningless insults isn't helping the people that want to know either.
1. You DO NOT need the manual ECU.
2. You DO NOT need to modify the ECU harness at the plug.
3. You DO NOT need to modify the dash harness, just simply change the tach face to match the manual.
08-30-10, 12:56 AM
#23
I know you have good intentions on trying to help these people out that are trying to do this, but some of your info is false.
1. You DO NOT need the manual ECU.
2. You DO NOT need to modify the ECU harness at the plug.
3. You DO NOT need to modify the dash harness, just simply change the tach face to match the manual.
1. You DO NOT need the manual ECU.
2. You DO NOT need to modify the ECU harness at the plug.
3. You DO NOT need to modify the dash harness, just simply change the tach face to match the manual.
09-28-10, 08:08 PM
#24
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i just did mine 6 days ago i even used the auto rear hear are facts from what i did.
i used and act flywheel with the auto counter weight. you goin to need pilot bearing and seal. i used a manual ecu. you are going to need a manual starter ad bolts one to the block and one with a nut to the other side because it wont bolt to the block. you are going to need a clutch pedal the brake i just cut one half of it off for more separation. you dont need any harness at all that is bs. you going to need the shifter boot clutch master and slave and line. the speed sensor plugs right in make sure it the right one because it will be 2 plugs that it can go into. on the big plus there are going to be 2 fat wire on the same side i think it was green and red. cut them and crimp together. you are going to need a manual drive shaft but you dont need the rear you can use the auto one. you can just buy the companion flange that cost about 170 from mazda or do what i did . i drilled the holes this is how the drive shaft has a ring to center the drive shaft onto the companion flange oh remove it from diff its easier to work that way. clamp it on and drill the holes. once drilled you are going to notice that the nuts wont fit flush so i took it to a machine shop and for 50 bucks they put it on the lathe and now it flush. this is all fact because this is what i did the auto trans is very heavy and was a pain to get off the 5 speed was cake a lot more room to work with. now i just have to remove the a/t computer to see if i can get rid of the hold light flashing what have you guys done about that. the bolts are all 10m 1.25 pitch i cant remember size but they are about a 1/4 inch bigger the the auto ones hope this help. my car feels lighter and faster and for people that say get the 4.10 gears please go do the math its only about 2 mph different in every gear not to much of a difference
i used and act flywheel with the auto counter weight. you goin to need pilot bearing and seal. i used a manual ecu. you are going to need a manual starter ad bolts one to the block and one with a nut to the other side because it wont bolt to the block. you are going to need a clutch pedal the brake i just cut one half of it off for more separation. you dont need any harness at all that is bs. you going to need the shifter boot clutch master and slave and line. the speed sensor plugs right in make sure it the right one because it will be 2 plugs that it can go into. on the big plus there are going to be 2 fat wire on the same side i think it was green and red. cut them and crimp together. you are going to need a manual drive shaft but you dont need the rear you can use the auto one. you can just buy the companion flange that cost about 170 from mazda or do what i did . i drilled the holes this is how the drive shaft has a ring to center the drive shaft onto the companion flange oh remove it from diff its easier to work that way. clamp it on and drill the holes. once drilled you are going to notice that the nuts wont fit flush so i took it to a machine shop and for 50 bucks they put it on the lathe and now it flush. this is all fact because this is what i did the auto trans is very heavy and was a pain to get off the 5 speed was cake a lot more room to work with. now i just have to remove the a/t computer to see if i can get rid of the hold light flashing what have you guys done about that. the bolts are all 10m 1.25 pitch i cant remember size but they are about a 1/4 inch bigger the the auto ones hope this help. my car feels lighter and faster and for people that say get the 4.10 gears please go do the math its only about 2 mph different in every gear not to much of a difference
