The new motor is in. I removed the AWS, ACV, EGR, Airpump. I start the car (in gear or out of gear) and the rpms go right up to 4,000 right away. What the hell is this all about. I am using my other car with jumpers to start the car because the rx has a weak battery, but I can't believe that is it. The car starts right up without a problem, just soars to 4k. The connector that used to plug into the AWS solenoid is just danging...am I supposed to put a resistor in that? I even followed Mahjik's advice and closed the air adjustment screw under the TB, and then backed it out 1/2 turn to open it a little. I have checked the tension on the throttle cable...seems like it is fine...not pulling the throttle open. the idle adjustment screw on the top of the TB isn't forcing the throttle open either. I have checked for vac leaks....don't think I have let it run long enough for codes...i shut it down immediately after it hits 4k....Trev

 

Do you have Cruise Control installed?

I would start by checking to make sure the throttle cable isn't tensioned. If you started the car, that should be enough for any codes to get stored. Go ahead and check to see what codes you have (if any).

Check to make sure you have everything else connected (TPS, ISC, etc).

 

I checked the cable for the throttle and the cruise...i even removed the cruise one....started it and still 4k....I unplugged the ISC, and started it...as per a post by dale....still 4k....now, i still have the double throttle control....there is separate linkage for that, and is it possible that those plates are stuck open? Should I remove the compression tube so i can see the throttle plates?

 

Well, I already recommended to you in the PM to run without the cold side IC piping until everything was running decent (i.e. no more throttle/idle adjustments).

 

well, I am getting a code 11, intake thermo temp sensor. I relocated it to the compression tube, and had re-wired it...maybe something wrong there...will that cause a high idle?

 

It's possible. I remember strange things happen when those wires are wired backwards.

 

Okay, well, I checked and sure enough, there was a wire disconnected from the solder at each end. Soldered them back in. cleared the codes...now when I insert the jumper wire, the CE light goes off and stays off. I start the car....still 4K on the RPMS. I am sure they aren't wired BACKWARDS. If they were, wouldn't that still be throwing a code? What about the double throttle operation....i need to remove the compression tube...

 

ttt

 

I just removed the compression tube. There are the 3 throttle plate. both top ones are sealed closed, but the bottom is cracked open...enough to fit a decent sized flat head screwdriver into the opened gap between the throttle plate and the side wall. Here is something else...when I open the throttle plates, I can see a second set of throttle plates behind them (I assume the double throttle control) Anyways, these are sitting at WOT. They're supposed to be right? Is this more than likely the high idle issue? Thanks again

 

Adjust till the single plate is closed and see if the idle goes down. Did you remove everything for the AWS as that cam can flip around and cause the throttle to stick and not allow it to close where it needs to be. I believe some have wired it so as not to interfere with it.

 

More info please. I replace the solonoid and put in the 2 block off plates...the connector is sitting empty just dangling. I did have the AWS solenoid still plugged in and dangling when I started it...I have since removed and the idle of course is still high...could that being plugged in and just dangling out in the open have cause something goofy?

Trev

 

I had that problem. My bottom butterfly was cracked open, & was giving me a high idle. It turned out to be the wax rod assembly.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ther+high+idle
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ther+high+idle

That's how I fixed my problem. Even after changing the ISC, TPS, both idle screws....

P.S. Just be sure it's not a vacuum leak... Good luck to you.

 

EXCELLENT. I will get right on this...my primary is cracked enough that you can fit a small/medium flat head into the gap...so...do I screw clock-wise or counter-clockwise on the wax adj screw? I guess I will see what way it closes it.

Trev

 

well, I went to check the fast idle cam, but before I could, i was tinkering with the air adjustment screw on the side of the TB...I have played with this several times and was under the impression that I didn't have it holding the primary butterfly open, but I was wrong! now when I start it, i get about 1300 RPMS! I will have to drive it and warm it up to see if it drops a little and adjust accordingly!!

 

perhaps you have an intake leak after the throttle body?

 

problem solved...CEL's now