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Anyone with Xcess oil pan and bigger dual oil coolers

Old Oct 22, 2011 | 12:31 AM
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From: AZ
AZ Anyone with Xcess oil pan and bigger dual oil coolers

Hi,

I have just recently got my single turbo FD running and it has been running extremely well. Being a new build there are of course little nuances that arise and take some research to iron out. Well I have one and hopefully with the help of this forum I can quickly figure it out.

The quick and dirty is that for some reason when I corner mildly aggressive the oil level light where the factory oil pressure gauge is comes on. If I am indeed starving the engine of oil in these situations it is for sure a issue I need to address.

What I think may be the issue but am unsure about is the fact that I have the Xcessive oil pan, which already holds 1 extra quart of oil, with 2x25 row CXRacing oil coolers with -10 oil lines.

Oil level readings on the dip stick is just one notch under the full mark, which from my experiences is really full.

Could this set up be holding so much oil in the lines and coolers that when the oil pump is active that I am actually low on oil when the car is running? I defiantly do not want to over fill with oil. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 12:39 AM
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need baffles?
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 12:53 AM
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From: AZ
AZ

Originally Posted by Barban
need baffles?
The oil pan is supposed to have improved baffles.
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 12:55 AM
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how about wiggling the oil pressure sender to make sure the connection is not loose? They tend to go bad and known to be a problem.


-AzEKnightz
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Neutron
Hi,

What I think may be the issue but am unsure about is the fact that I have the Xcessive oil pan, which already holds 1 extra quart of oil, with 2x25 row CXRacing oil coolers with -10 oil lines.

Oil level readings on the dip stick is just one notch under the full mark, which from my experiences is really full.

Could this set up be holding so much oil in the lines and coolers that when the oil pump is active that I am actually low on oil when the car is running? I defiantly do not want to over fill with oil. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
I have dual Mocal 19 row coolers and the Xcessive pan.

It's been going strong for 3 seasons of autocross - if the oil slosh was causing low oil pressure I probably would have known it by now.
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by AzEKnightz
how about wiggling the oil pressure sender to make sure the connection is not loose? They tend to go bad and known to be a problem.


-AzEKnightz
I just installed a new sensor and made sure connector was
tight. I need to do a break in oil change so will double check then.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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Neutron,

I have the Xcessive oil sump also. Even with the additional quart in the sump, I'd imagine you need to add another 3/4 quart to fill up the coolers and lines to get the dipstick to read "full." Bear in mind if you overfill the pan, you'll end up with oil getting pushed out of the engine and turbo any way it can, evidenced by oil around the turbo and black smoke out the exhaust upon shifting. Don't ask me how I know

Here's mine btw:



Since the pan is deeper than stock, you might consider having the oil pickup line extended an inch or so lower so it pulls oil from the bottom of the pan instead of skimming and recycling oil from just the upper layer. Doing this should resolve any oil starvation issues. Considering the price, the sump should really come with an extended pickup tube IMO.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 05:44 PM
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what everyone is looking at is called the windage tray, the baffle is below that (on the new pans) casted into the base of teh oil pan its self.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 05:32 PM
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Thanks for the feedback everyone. I defiantly know that I have plenty of oil.

I believe that all of the Xcessive oil pans that came with previsions for mounting the oil level sensor are newer units and are all baffled so oil sloshing should not be a problem.

The only explanation I can see the problem being is that the sensor is bad or wiring is bad. The connection seems to be tight but I guess I need to do some more testing.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 10:43 PM
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Neutron,
Prometheus has it right. That plate won't do squat and isn't baffle. It would work in a piston motor as a windage tray but otherwise it's useless for us in the rotary world.

Here's what I did to baffle my pan:
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fdoilpan.htm

HTH,
crispy
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:15 AM
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Time for Crispy's rotary evolutions to design some superior products and stop refining inferior products
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 07:18 PM
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Crispy,

Looks great! Did you make a template to recreate the baffle by chance
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 08:46 PM
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Have these pans stopped all oil pan leaks for the owners? I've considered one for my personal car simply to stop/prevent leaks. How have they held up? interested to hear from guys with 10k miles or more.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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If you did and want to sell one to me, pm me. I have money to spend. lol
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by djseven
Have these pans stopped all oil pan leaks for the owners? I've considered one for my personal car simply to stop/prevent leaks. How have they held up? interested to hear from guys with 10k miles or more.
Cuddlebear,

we've installed a few of them...... prior to, make sure you check them for leaks while off the motor. We had one years ago with a casting imperfection that was seeping oil from the rear wall. Kinda sucked to deal with.

I've considered this pan as well, but don't feel like dealing with all the BS to make it 'right.' Kudos to Dr. Regan, but why doesnt it come with the oil level sending unit provision and with baffles already installed?

If it did, many more would sell. I steer people away from it for the time being and recommend a brand new OEM pan along with a brace and Moroso stud kit. Works like a charm, zero leaks so far *knocks on wood*

Originally Posted by Monkman33
If you did and want to sell one to me, pm me. I have money to spend. lol
I know where you can send it
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Cuddlebear,

we've installed a few of them...... prior to, make sure you check them for leaks while off the motor. We had one years ago with a casting imperfection that was seeping oil from the rear wall. Kinda sucked to deal with.

I've considered this pan as well, but don't feel like dealing with all the BS to make it 'right.' Kudos to Dr. Regan, but why doesnt it come with the oil level sending unit provision and with baffles already installed?

If it did, many more would sell. I steer people away from it for the time being and recommend a brand new OEM pan along with a brace and Moroso stud kit. Works like a charm, zero leaks so far *knocks on wood*
I remember when you posted about the pan a few years back. If I recall you weren't the only person to have that issue. I don't like that it hangs below the subframe. I remember at least one member hitting something and cracking it.

After sealing my oil pan three times over the years and seriously considering the Xcessive/Pineapple pan I decided it wasn't worth the cost and additional modifications and followed the same path with a new OEM oil pan, Garfinkle pan brace, Moroso stud kit and plenty of Permatex's The Right Stuff and I'm finally leak free!
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by the_glass_man
I remember when you posted about the pan a few years back. If I recall you weren't the only person to have that issue. I don't like that it hangs below the subframe. I remember at least one member hitting something and cracking it.
Chance in a million. The *one* that cracked (destroyed) the pan hit a brick bouncing down the center of the road. A BRICK!

As an aside a few notables regarding this pan:
1) you should still use a sealant to seal the pan. After several years of use I've noticed a bit of leakage along the rear edge on mine. Even though I used a brand new o-ring I bet a small bead of sealant would have helped.
2) I have another one of these sitting on the shelf and it has a casting flaw that I'd bet good money leaks.
3) My baffles were a one-off exercise. I might...might have the cardboard templates but I'll have to dig for them.
4) And agree...the manufacturer should have included REAL baffles with the pan.

However, I do believe properly "modified" this pan is a big step over the OEM pan. Simply the added volume is reason enough IMHO to strongly consider the pan.

FWIW,
Crispy
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 10:25 AM
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Crispy if I'm going to go through all the trouble you went through I'd just dry sump it and call it a day.
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by the_glass_man
Crispy if I'm going to go through all the trouble you went through I'd just dry sump it and call it a day.
I'm right there with ya bro. Trust me I was minutes from pulling the trigger but couldn't quite do it for my "street" car.

But I do enjoy a challange.

Regards,
Crispy
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