Anyone ever replace this bottom ypipe line?
Anyone ever replace this bottom ypipe line?
So I took off everything last month and I am about to order all my parts to put the downpipe and ypipe back on but this hose cracked at the very tip. It looks like a pain to remove. So I was going to just cut off the cracked part back to the softer rubber and add an adapter and run a new hose to the bottom of the ypipe connection. Just wondering if anyone has every replaced this without taking off the need parts to access the back side of the hose connected to the nipple on looks like intake manifold under the fuel rail. Here is a picture
Last edited by rowdog_14; Jan 24, 2018 at 07:39 PM.
If its that brittle, you can go all out, pull the UIM and replace that section of hose. Or swing by the auto parts store and get one of the 'Help!' vacuum fittings and a small piece of vacuum hose and bridge the two.
.
Ok, yep so you agree with my adapter
Um, without
. If I do that I am going to do a whole vacuum line job on the nest too
...+1 for your 2nd option which is adapter too.
Looks like 3 for adapter and 0 for ability to remove without taking off Intake manifold
Ok, yep so you agree with my adapter
. If I do that I am going to do a whole vacuum line job on the nest too
...+1 for your 2nd option which is adapter too.Looks like 3 for adapter and 0 for ability to remove without taking off Intake manifold
The other end of that hose plugs into the bottom of the lower intake manifold and it's not easy to get to with the rat's nest/wiring/fuel lines in place. I would use a hose barb to join it to a good piece of hose then long term replace it when you're in there.
Also, I always recommend using BRASS fittings for joining hose. The cheap plastic ones will bake in the heat and crack, sometimes in really short order. This is of greater significance for boost controller fittings, as a failed plastic fitting can result in overboost and engine damage.
Dale
Also, I always recommend using BRASS fittings for joining hose. The cheap plastic ones will bake in the heat and crack, sometimes in really short order. This is of greater significance for boost controller fittings, as a failed plastic fitting can result in overboost and engine damage.
Dale
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Your rubber turbo coolant line looks pretty bloated in that first picture. That’s what made the outer insulation sleeve split. I’d consider replacing it soon. The other one is probably due as well.
The other end of that hose plugs into the bottom of the lower intake manifold and it's not easy to get to with the rat's nest/wiring/fuel lines in place. I would use a hose barb to join it to a good piece of hose then long term replace it when you're in there.
Also, I always recommend using BRASS fittings for joining hose. The cheap plastic ones will bake in the heat and crack, sometimes in really short order. This is of greater significance for boost controller fittings, as a failed plastic fitting can result in overboost and engine damage.
Dale
Also, I always recommend using BRASS fittings for joining hose. The cheap plastic ones will bake in the heat and crack, sometimes in really short order. This is of greater significance for boost controller fittings, as a failed plastic fitting can result in overboost and engine damage.
Dale

Yeah I learned the easy way that the plastic one are horrible for an RX7. I put a t-adapter on intake manifold for my boost gauge and it melted on the first ride
. So I agree will do brass.
Yep I pointed that out in another post, not part of this thread. The other that is behind the air pump looks good, but I am ordering it anyway and will decide 100% if I want to take the additional parts off to replace or just leave it for now since it looks good.
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