any tips before DP installation
#4
I'm a CF and poop smith
yep soak it iwth pb blaster, also, you might wnana try to go from above instead from underneath the car. good luck and take yoru time
(ps: a breaker bar with a 5 foot extension will brake any nut off, unfortnualtly it might also crack the stud in 1/2 hehe)
(ps: a breaker bar with a 5 foot extension will brake any nut off, unfortnualtly it might also crack the stud in 1/2 hehe)
#7
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Depending on how much work you want to do, how long you have to do the work, and what your future plans are, you may want to consider pulling your turbo's to port your wastegates at this time as well.
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#8
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Take the secondary turbo air inlet pipe and Y-Pipe off. This will completely expose the upper front AND rear studs/nuts. Otherwise it will be a PITA to get to the upper rear stud/nut.
Soaking the studs/nuts with PB Blaster is a must. Good Luck.
Soaking the studs/nuts with PB Blaster is a must. Good Luck.
#9
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now that is a tip i coulda used before i did mine. i worked around everything. but it still only took about an hour or less to install. like everyone said penetrating oil is the key. i just soaked everything the night before and it came off like nothing.
#10
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Just an added note: whatever you do, if you feel the nut binding up, don't try to force it-- back it off a bit, then try loosening again. If you try to force it, you will break a stud, guaranteed. Then you will mostly likely be forced to remove the turbo unit in order to properly remove it.
There is also a 50/50 chance that the stud will come out with the nut, so it may be a good idea to get some extra nuts and studs from Malloy or Mazdaformance. They're cheap insurance.
There is also a 50/50 chance that the stud will come out with the nut, so it may be a good idea to get some extra nuts and studs from Malloy or Mazdaformance. They're cheap insurance.
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tiger18
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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09-03-15 08:27 PM