bfeito

How long ago did the customer get that put in? I have the "anti-det"and it doesn't look like that. Haven't took them out to look at the end, but they are a lot larger, looks like 2 hex bolt heads on the side of my motor. Maybe there was some type of redesign or something. As far as gaining or loosing power with the device, my car put down 239hp 213 tq @10PSI. I think those are some decent numbers for my setup (in my sig). Runs really smooth too. I can't say I gained horsepower, maybe a little torque. Car is running strong, we will see how it goes. I am getting better gas mileage though, which is a plus. We see how it continues to perform as time goes on.

RecKleSs

At 5000 miles what happened to the warranty? Any explanations were given to the original owner from KDR views on why the engine blew? Also, do you know his maps on his ECU?

jimlab

I don't think so. A guy named Steve was apparently trying to rip off KDR (and everyone else) by selling an "anti-det" knock-off that consisted of two plugs (shown below... look familiar?) for $500. He was also using animations from Blake Qualley's site without asking. After people (myself included) told him to go **** himself and a couple threads were locked, the only updates on those plugs was Jason's short review (link below).

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/anti-det-installed-319196/





Mine put down 237.6 RWHP and 211.8 lb-ft. with a blown engine (both rotors) at the same boost level through a stock intercooler and stock cat-back. You didn't gain anything.

1 BAD 7

I couldn't agree more. If I hadn't gotten screwed over by my mechanic, I'd be keeping my FD with a street-ported motor at roughly stock boost. I didn't want gobs of power - shoot, the FD is a fast car to begin with.

Reliability and driving my FD > Gobs of power and blown motors left and right

artguy

you lost between five and ten percent is what you did. its the anti-mod. put this on and run slower.

should have picked up water injection instead. youve been had.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Jim, if you can make that kind of power on a blown engine, and BOTH rotors at that, the point of a rebuild is...? HDP (Mr. Nevermind lol) has been running his FD for over a year and a half now on a blown rotor (right?). I'm missing something here...I'm sure of it. Besides not holding idle, what's the problem then w/ a blown engine if it still makes constant power??

jimlab

Some hold together better than others and may keep running for several months like this one did, probably because the seals were still in the engine, although five out of six were cracked and both rotors had bad compression. Others, like my first engine, just give up and refuse to idle. It threw a corner seal and took out one apex seal, the rotor, the housing, and the rear turbo.

With a Tri-Point downpipe and mid-pipe with a Borla XR-1 and M2 ECU, I should have made more than 238 RWHP horsepower @ 10 psi, even with the stock intercooler and cat-back. The car was backfiring and running like ****. The idle wasn't that bad, but the engine could go at any time and leave you stranded. The only reason I dyno'd the car was because I figured it would be good for a laugh, and because it reduced the price for the rest of the club members.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I've actually driven my old TII for MONTHS with a blown motor. Made around 10" of vacuum, idled a bit rough, and frequently flooded at hot-starts. But, it made great power and drove fine.

A blown motor isn't a black-and-white propositiion. My motor had a chipped apex seal - it could still seal OK at high RPM, so it made good power. Also, the motor wasn't that old either, so the apex seals weren't worn way down from high mileage.

Anyhow, I can fully understand Jim making that kind of power with a blown motor - I'm sure the motor wasn't too old, so it was "lightly" blown.

Did I mention it's just REALLY weird seeing a pic of Jim's car back when it was RUNNING!

Dale

Don-94BB R2(NJ)

This is an interesting thread. I currently have this mod. Now, before I had it installed my car put down 334 RWHP and around 301-305 TQ. At the time, around 2 years ago, my car had 45,XXX miles and the hp mods were: M2 intake, M2 large IC, UR full pulley kit, 8.5 lb flywheel, Pettit Unlimited ECU, DP and catback running at 15psi. Original engine and turbos FWIW.

Then I had a HF cat installed plus a Profec Spec II boost controller. Couldnt get the damn thing to hold past 12psi, but the power was smooth. So I went back to the shop and had them take out the profec and they installed a TurboXS manual controller. I also had it dyno'd because I wanted to see the gains with the HF cat. They did the anti-det mod at the same time. The car was breaking up real bad on the dyno and I was told I would need an ingnition amp. So I put down 321.7hp and 325.8 TQ. I was impressed with the torque. Figured the igntion amp was the reason why my HP went down.

Went home and ordered an HKS twin power, while driving even at 10psi on top end would have me breaking up!!! Got the twin power installed and dyno'd again, but only yielded a 1hp gain and 2 TQ gain!

Didnt think to much of this until I stumbled upon this thread(I have to start reading the forum more often). But it looks as though those spaces in the plug holes must be the cause of the backfiring I was getting.

I agree wholeheartdly with Dale Clarks previous post on enjoying the car and refining the things the car was built for(handling, track use). I have a Yamaha R1 so that quenches my straight line thirst.

What I'd like to know is if its better for me to get rid of the anti-det mod? I would like to keep my FD as long as possible AND on the original motor and turbos. If the car is running richer with this mod, then that cant be too go for the longevity of the motor then, right???

All and any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thank-you

artguy

if u pull the plug caps out then be sure you do a tuning session to clean it up properly. there is no substitute for good tuning. right?

Jason

ntegravtec

I thought that a lot of the detonation problems were caused by running too lean. Wouldn't it be better for the engine to run richer?

Jake

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

RichER than lean, yes. There's a happy medium between rich and lean. Too rich, and you get carbon deposits up the wazoo. Too lean, and you say byebye to your motor. More power tends to be on the leanER side, but it's not on either side of the spectrum. So you don't wanna run too rich, or too lean. In short, you want a GOOD TUNE, right artguy?

ntegravtec

Agreed, FD...

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I believe someone dubbed these the "butt plugs"

HDP

iTrader: (2)

He has a Pettit unlimited ECU, how can you tune that?

PhoenixDownVII

With a fist, my dear. A fist...

Don-94BB R2(NJ)

Yeah, cant tune with the Pettit ECU. In my rush to get to work I forgot to mention the first dyno I did which resulted in 334hp, it was at different shop. Same kind of dynojet, I just figured the one in PA was set up more accurately for our cars?!? I know...dumb.

Also, if I half-throttle it up to redline, I get some break-up. But never with full boost and WOT.

FDNewbie----thats what I was referring to..the carbon deposits from running rich. Thank-you!

jimlab

Backfiring is caused by A) an open exhaust, and B) dumping a lot of unburned fuel into it. Eliminating half of your spark plugs would tend to contribute to that (the unburned fuel part), and an ignition amplifier isn't going to fix the problem.

The reason rotary engines have multiple spark plugs per "cylinder" is because of the shape of the combustion chamber. You want to promote an even, controlled burn, and a long, semi-oval combustion chamber doesn't lend itself easily to that with just one plug.

The 13G 3-rotor and 26B 4-rotor engines both used 3 plugs per rotor but have the same size rotors as the 13B-REW. The Renesis has 2 per rotor, just like the 13B-REW. If one plug per rotor was the answer to everything, Mazda probably would have arrived at that conclusion long before KDR did. Something to think about.

Yeah, but everyone wants big numbers and you know that all FDs should be able to make 350+ RWHP with the same mods, right?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

There are different levels of a "blown engine". Bad cooant seals still allow the car to run, but the engine is on its last legs, and is essentially "blown".

I had a CSP FB with a stock 12A. It had really bad apex seals (blown engine ). They were so bad that every time I let off (after hard acceleration), the car would disappear in a cloud of dark smoke. The car still ran good, but the people at races didn't like it very much. Right before pulling it out, we decided to see how high it would rev. We too it up to about 75 mph in second gear, and it pulled pretty hard. that was about 11k rpm. It wasn't too happy after that .

rallimike

iTrader: (1)

"If one plug per rotor was the answer to everything, Mazda probably would have arrived at that conclusion long before KDR did. Something to think about. "
I was under the impression that rotaries originally had 1 plug, and the 2nd plug was to reduce emissions, not to increase power. Am I misinformed?

jimlab

2 plugs per rotor predates emissions testing, as far as I know. The catalytic converter and air pump are what reduces emissions, because a rotary engine barfs a significant amount of unburned fuel into the exhaust no matter what you do to it while it's in the engine.

However, the 2nd plug does both... it reduces the amount of unburned fuel that goes into the exhaust, and by burning more fuel while it's still in the engine (where it can still do work instead of just making noise and fireballs) you get more power.

Don-94BB R2(NJ)

OK, so if I have this 'device' taken out then, there would really be no need for my HKS ingnition amp?!? My one little concern is after I had this mod installed, the shop called me a few days later and informed me I had to cut a green wire in the engine bay. Did anyone else here with the mod have to do that? Im guessing its one of the ignition wires or something, because I remember a similar green wire further from it that was used as an ignition source when my car was being dyno'd. I hope that's an easy, inexpensive fix. I guess it must be for the trailing plugs not to fire with the 'device' installed???
Forgive my lack of automotive knowledge.

Kento

Careful, Jim. You're going to start a whole new generation of "If I remove the trailing plugs will I get cool flames out the exhaust?" threads.

SPOautos

If you have it installed on your car and your car was tuned that way I would leave it alone. Your car has been tuned specifically for no trailing. If you want to remove it take it back and have it redone with the trailing back in place and retuned.

At LEASE call whoever installed it (KD I assume) and ask them if hooking the trailing back up will effect your tuning.

Stephen

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I doubt he's leasing his car, I think he's buying (or owns).