Another coolant leak
#1
thats not paint....
Thread Starter
Another coolant leak
Ok this has been like my 5th... pissing me off, replaced most of the hoses like turbo in/turbo out. I see it leaking from around the UIM/Firewall. It dripps past my DP and Turbos. There actually is a little white film on my DP from it burning some. It ends up hitting my subframe and dropping to the ground. Anyone have ideas... it seems to be close to the rats nest, enough to cover the fuel pressure regulator. What holds coolant around that area anyway?
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
#3
Rotary Freak
the line to the tb comes out of the rear housing at the top of the housing toward the passenger side, just follow the hose back. You know that that hot wax rod system is not needed and you can remove the nipples from the water pump houseing and the nipple from the rear housing and pipe plug them. This gets rid of 3 hoses and 1 metal line , that is 6 connections that can leak or 3 hoses to bust open. the car will start cold and idle good cold with the Power fc ,I know this for sure.
#5
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Originally posted by duboisr
the line to the tb comes out of the rear housing at the top of the housing toward the passenger side, just follow the hose back. You know that that hot wax rod system is not needed and you can remove the nipples from the water pump houseing and the nipple from the rear housing and pipe plug them. This gets rid of 3 hoses and 1 metal line , that is 6 connections that can leak or 3 hoses to bust open. the car will start cold and idle good cold with the Power fc ,I know this for sure.
the line to the tb comes out of the rear housing at the top of the housing toward the passenger side, just follow the hose back. You know that that hot wax rod system is not needed and you can remove the nipples from the water pump houseing and the nipple from the rear housing and pipe plug them. This gets rid of 3 hoses and 1 metal line , that is 6 connections that can leak or 3 hoses to bust open. the car will start cold and idle good cold with the Power fc ,I know this for sure.
If anyone has any problems, after doing this, PM me and I can send you a picture of the adjustment on the throttle body.
#6
thats not paint....
Thread Starter
Originally posted by P'cola FD
Are you sure it's not coming from one of the hoses going to the heater core on the firewall? Those could leak onto the downpipe.
Are you sure it's not coming from one of the hoses going to the heater core on the firewall? Those could leak onto the downpipe.
#7
thats not paint....
Thread Starter
Originally posted by duboisr
the line to the tb comes out of the rear housing at the top of the housing toward the passenger side, just follow the hose back. You know that that hot wax rod system is not needed and you can remove the nipples from the water pump houseing and the nipple from the rear housing and pipe plug them. This gets rid of 3 hoses and 1 metal line , that is 6 connections that can leak or 3 hoses to bust open. the car will start cold and idle good cold with the Power fc ,I know this for sure.
the line to the tb comes out of the rear housing at the top of the housing toward the passenger side, just follow the hose back. You know that that hot wax rod system is not needed and you can remove the nipples from the water pump houseing and the nipple from the rear housing and pipe plug them. This gets rid of 3 hoses and 1 metal line , that is 6 connections that can leak or 3 hoses to bust open. the car will start cold and idle good cold with the Power fc ,I know this for sure.
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#8
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Believe it or not I have had every single coolant, loss, overheating issue the FD can have (with 1 exception, thankfuly). Did you check the hoses behind the manifold? Mine cracked at the base and you could not tell except with using a flashlight back there.
good luck
good luck
#9
thats not paint....
Thread Starter
I am pretty sure were talking about the same hose the one from the throttle body to the rear rotor housing, Everything around that hose seems to be dry, I cant feel any cracks.
#10
Blow up or win
Originally posted by 7-sins
I am pretty sure were talking about the same hose the one from the throttle body to the rear rotor housing, Everything around that hose seems to be dry, I cant feel any cracks.
I am pretty sure were talking about the same hose the one from the throttle body to the rear rotor housing, Everything around that hose seems to be dry, I cant feel any cracks.
It's a bugger to get off without special long, needle nose "hose" pliers but easy to do with them. Leave the UIM on....just reach behind it. Pep Boys and Snap-On carry them, they will save you a ton of aggravation. They have a bulge in the tip that allows you to grab the entire circumference of the hose and pull it straight off. You'll want the OEM replacement hose since it has a lot of curves and is cheap.
Hope this is it!
#11
thats not paint....
Thread Starter
Originally posted by RonKMiller
Many times it will leak when it gets hot, just enough to start pissing a little coolant as the OEM hose clamp expands as the engine warms up - they way it is designed to do. What's happened is the hose has lost its elasticity as it has aged and will no longer expand. The coolant usually just evaporates as it hits the top of the engine and - bada bing - you have a mystery coolant loss - yours may be more severe.
It's a bugger to get off without special long, needle nose "hose" pliers but easy to do with them. Leave the UIM on....just reach behind it. Pep Boys and Snap-On carry them, they will save you a ton of aggravation. They have a bulge in the tip that allows you to grab the entire circumference of the hose and pull it straight off. You'll want the OEM replacement hose since it has a lot of curves and is cheap.
Hope this is it!
Many times it will leak when it gets hot, just enough to start pissing a little coolant as the OEM hose clamp expands as the engine warms up - they way it is designed to do. What's happened is the hose has lost its elasticity as it has aged and will no longer expand. The coolant usually just evaporates as it hits the top of the engine and - bada bing - you have a mystery coolant loss - yours may be more severe.
It's a bugger to get off without special long, needle nose "hose" pliers but easy to do with them. Leave the UIM on....just reach behind it. Pep Boys and Snap-On carry them, they will save you a ton of aggravation. They have a bulge in the tip that allows you to grab the entire circumference of the hose and pull it straight off. You'll want the OEM replacement hose since it has a lot of curves and is cheap.
Hope this is it!
#13
Blow up or win
Originally posted by 7-sins
Thanks for the long write up. I went back out and after looking everywhere I saw a little coolant down by the injectors... correct me if I am wrong but I believe that is the ONLY water hose around the injectors. I decided to pull it out anyway... I chewed up the hose pulling it out so I cant tell if it really was leaking but everything points to it. I think I am going to go get a plain old hose because I have it going to a T fitting for the water temp sensor.
Thanks for the long write up. I went back out and after looking everywhere I saw a little coolant down by the injectors... correct me if I am wrong but I believe that is the ONLY water hose around the injectors. I decided to pull it out anyway... I chewed up the hose pulling it out so I cant tell if it really was leaking but everything points to it. I think I am going to go get a plain old hose because I have it going to a T fitting for the water temp sensor.
You'll probably be fine with plain hose as long as you use a brass "T" instead of Nylon. Make sure you try to clean the old fitting of any old hose guts or it will leak all over again, I have NO idea how to do that without taking off the UIM - but you already knew that! Anyone who has some side housings in their avatar is bitchin. Bob bitchin!
Alrighty then.......
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