Another blown engine thread
12-13-09, 01:20 AM
#52
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There are just too many variables to assess before jumping to conclusions. Hell, thats why the Fd got such a bad rap in the first place. the dealerships would misdiagnose and do warranty claims on engines for dumb crap like broken check valves, or sequential turbo solenoids.
Ive seen it first hand. Dealership said my turbos were blown and it was a 30 cent "c" clip connecting an actuator arm to the exhaust control valve between the turbos. They wrote up a work list for 5000 bucks. I laughed in their faces because I knew they were fine, only not functioning correctly.
I have a 20ft. pole.....and I'm not getting any closer than that...... 
12-13-09, 08:15 AM
#56
As a guy who has spent significant money at Pettit Racing and many other places, my advice to you is to take the car to Carlos (not Alex) Lopez in Miami and have him break down the engine and inspect it. If it is a bad engine rebuilt, document with pictures and a statement from Carlos and take it to Cam. I am sure he'll work with you on getting it fixed. If it is not a bad rebuild, you can then have either Carlos or Cam rebuild it for you.
If you can get the car to Orlando, I would highly recommend Kilo Racing and Jesus Padilla. Most blown engines in Orlando find their way to Jesus for inspection and rebuild. And Jason, a "bad" engine doesn't always blow at 500 miles or so. My 20B lasted about 2,000 miles before it gave way. Upon inspection, we found numerous things wrong with the engine (parts, porting, etc.) that the original builder then made right.
If you can get the car to Orlando, I would highly recommend Kilo Racing and Jesus Padilla. Most blown engines in Orlando find their way to Jesus for inspection and rebuild. And Jason, a "bad" engine doesn't always blow at 500 miles or so. My 20B lasted about 2,000 miles before it gave way. Upon inspection, we found numerous things wrong with the engine (parts, porting, etc.) that the original builder then made right.
12-13-09, 09:56 AM
#60
My build wont do anything magical if you dont find the underlying issue that is causing the problem. Try to work with Cam/Pettit and maybe you guys can come to some resolution.
More people should build with ALS or Rotary Aviation seals, they may be a band aid in some applications but when you have a $1500.00 turbo, new housings, etc it is better safe than sorry. It is proven that the stock seals are more than capable but they are no where near as forgiving as the other seals I mentioned. A band aid is not what I am recommending just stating those seals cant help prevent issues like this or give you more time to find the problem before detrimental failure.
More people should build with ALS or Rotary Aviation seals, they may be a band aid in some applications but when you have a $1500.00 turbo, new housings, etc it is better safe than sorry. It is proven that the stock seals are more than capable but they are no where near as forgiving as the other seals I mentioned. A band aid is not what I am recommending just stating those seals cant help prevent issues like this or give you more time to find the problem before detrimental failure.
12-13-09, 02:08 PM
#61
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I'm just going to drop my two cents on this thread. My first FD I had a stock reman motor, with all bolt ons for the twins with 12psi. Never did I have any problems with the engine.
Now with my current motor, I bought a car that already has a blown motor. The original owner said he only had 2K on the motor until it blew. Why? Not properly maintained/break in. He already had the car on the dyno and tuned by Steve Kan when I bought the car.
All I hear is how the rotary is such a flawed motor and how they always blow. With this one, I am taking that chance of dropping a lot of money into it, but during the build, I am buy everything/anything to be a safeguard for the engine.
If you knew after doing proper break in that your compression was low, why did you go ahead and continue to mod the car (adding meth) and not even telling your builder? If I just had my engine built and it STILL has low compression, the first thing I would do is call my builder and tell him exactly what is going on. All the builders are building these engines to make them unbreakable unless user error. The user error on this? Not telling your builder. In a build it should be a two way communication, your builder telling you what's going on and you telling him of any problems right away so you can fix it.
Good luck with everything and I hope everything works out for you.
Now with my current motor, I bought a car that already has a blown motor. The original owner said he only had 2K on the motor until it blew. Why? Not properly maintained/break in. He already had the car on the dyno and tuned by Steve Kan when I bought the car.
All I hear is how the rotary is such a flawed motor and how they always blow. With this one, I am taking that chance of dropping a lot of money into it, but during the build, I am buy everything/anything to be a safeguard for the engine.
If you knew after doing proper break in that your compression was low, why did you go ahead and continue to mod the car (adding meth) and not even telling your builder? If I just had my engine built and it STILL has low compression, the first thing I would do is call my builder and tell him exactly what is going on. All the builders are building these engines to make them unbreakable unless user error. The user error on this? Not telling your builder. In a build it should be a two way communication, your builder telling you what's going on and you telling him of any problems right away so you can fix it.
Good luck with everything and I hope everything works out for you.
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