woa... sorry to hear. I never let anyone drive my car without me on the passenger seat. And they only got permission to go up to 5k rpm. 7k rpm is abusing the car man. I shift between 3-4k rpm. If i'm on track I probably do between 6->7k rpm.

 

Going to have to disagree with you here. 7000 rpms is abusing the car? The redline is there for a reason. If an FD is well sorted and tuned correctly, 7000 rpm is fine, especially at only 8 psi.

There's a lot of confusion over boost vs rpm..... rotaries *like* high rpm, and has been stated previously you absolutely can ruin an rotary by driving like a granny and leading to excessive carbon build up over the years.

I also think 'legal action' in this case is kinda laughable, no offense. If it blew with water/meth injection, you have a pretty serious problem...... the car should be bulletproof with that stuff, esp at low boost levels.

If someone wants a turnkey dead reliable 500+ flywheel hp car, go get a Corvette. You have the wrong car.

Edit: when I think about it, my personal FD has been dead reliable at 500+ flywheel hp for almost 7 years now, but I also have only driven it approx 25k miles in that time span. I also have replaced freaking *everything* on the car

 

What's with the fetish about rpm?Operating up to red line is fine.What kills your engine is engine load,partcularly if it is not fuelled properly.

The same logic applies to running an engine in---you can easily shorten the life of an new engine by loading it up to early during the run in period. The key is the postion of your right foot!

I went back to read the original thread--I have to wonder about driving technique when a heavy duty clutch can be destroyed so quickly.maybe it was adefective clutch as well.

 

Sounds kinda odd to me, think something fuel related, tune, or possibly porting. I try to watch the AFR's as much as i can(or have a friend watch) when im doin pulls(especially when its cold) to make sure everything is in check. Did your friend perhaps fill it with 87? If the setup and tune is right there is no issue with shiftin at redline "if" your car makes power that high( i shift around 8-8.5k when racing),

 

my car is not tuned, so I never take it to 7k yet. I meant: friend drive your car like that is abusing.

 

I need to stop reading these threads, everytime I step outside I hear 'LS' blowing in the wind

 

Fear won't get you anywhere. Making a decision on your FD based on what basically amounts to outliers on a bell curve would be foolish IMHO.

 

That's what I needed to hear, I came from the DSM world...I saw my fair share of people being scared of 'crankwalk'...and now I own a rotary

 

i don't know what that means but i am sure it says that you should stick to rotary engines

 

he's talking about statistics.....outliers are just kinda like freakish events...,out of the norm etc.. or just plain stupid decisions haha.

 

Here's the thing..... with boosted rotaries, the margin for error is small. The more specific output you squeeze from 80 (or 160) cubic inches, the more volatile it will be. As we all know, **** happens---- and these cars aren't very tolerant of that condition. I believe it all comes down to heat...... reason why I run water injection, have a full 4 inch exhaust, tons of ceramic coating, monitor EGTs etc etc.

I've been making 400+ rwhp since 2003, havent blown an engine in that time. Prior to that, I blew a lot of engines, but it was part of the learning process.

 

david maybe i need to go to you for my next build

 

i know it has gotten a little off topic in this thread. but you do have a fuel/ign issue. dont go and think that a different build is going to help. im am just saying this so your next motor will last rather then the same issue happen again. i would recommend getting it rebuild and having a tuner put it on a load dyno and spend some hours with it.

where in florida are you located? i know of a few builders and tuners down there that will make this car set correctly

 

Here is the thing. If it was a bad engine build you are going to find that out very fast. Like 0-500 miles during break in. If you had 2k miles on it then the odds are its not the build. Sounds like the car went lean and you blew a seal/s. Cam knows how to build a motor so I would take it to him and let him break it down. Its a possibility that he may help you on the cost if its not covered under warranty which is better than taking it to another shop that is going to charge you full price.
At that point you can take it somewhere else to get it tuned if you want because to me that is probably the issue in the first place.

 

agree with jason. but the car needs alot of attention payed to fuel and ignition consistancy. it needs some time in a good tuners hands.

 

In 1995, Cam built the 4 port 13B engine for me that is in my 83 right now. It has 55K miles on it & still runs good. Running around 8 PSI of boost on a streetported engine with Haltech EFI. Cam did a lot of the tuning on it but once I picked up on how to do it, wasn`t hard. I do have a AFR meter in the car so that helped immensely in keeping it from being destroyed as I played with the tune. After 2K miles on your motor, I would not think it would be the build that is causing you grief. It is something else. I think a long talk with Cam would be in order.

 

I agree that the problem isn't in the build, you have something else going on.

I skimmed both threads and couldnt find the answers to these questions:
Mileage on chassis?
Engine management?
Engine wiring harness and ignition harness replaced?
fuel filter changed recently?
Oil Metering Pump checked to verify it's properly working?

 

Mileage on chassis is around 140K
ECU is Apexi. PFC
Engine wiring harness is brand new when cam did the 1st. rebuild. ignition was never replaced. And I was thinking that was one of the culprits. Or fuel pump.
Fuel filter was changed after the 1st. rebuild. Not more then 2K miles ago.
OMP was removed I add 2oz. per gallon of his premix.

I don't know anyone else that has had problems with cams engines. But last time he said he will do the rebuild free and I will pay for parts and I ended up paying full price. I will call him and talk to him and tell him my intentions. If he says he will do the labor on him I will definitely want it in writing.

What will cause an engine to blow? There is no way my friend put 87oct. in the tank, no way he cranked up the boost. I still feel that a compression check is the way to go and that's what I did and it was showing that it had bad compression. I'm not there 24/7 to be on the phone with cam pleading with him and trying to convince him that it was a bad build.

I will really like to just take some time off get a DVD and do it myself so that way if something happens the only person there is to blame is me. I have been watching some you tube videos on engine re building and it doesn't look easy at all there are all kind of clearances you have to have and so on. I feel that if you half *** it something can go very wrong internally.

It's wrong to point the finger right away at someone and I was just pretty hot at the time when my friend called me with the news. Cam Is a solid guy with a flawless reputation and racing carrier. I will never let anyone ever again drive my car I don't care If I don't use it for 7 months straight. Next time I get a build it will get tuned right away so I can find out exactly whats wrong with this thing.

 

SMG944 I'm in Naples , There is a tuner in Wellington east coast horse power logic. There is a good builder In Miami lopez racing.

 

First off, NEVER let ANYONE drive your FD, especially family... NEVER.

2nd most people get an engine rebuild and ONLY a rebuild. They dont get the whole package deal where everything is looked at as a whole. Builder cant be held responsible. People always want to go the cheap route, and you cant with this car.

3rd It sounds like youve got the money but not putting in the wrench time. Get in there and get dirty.

4th you took an FD to the dealer which is the absolute worst thing on this planet to do, short of killing babies and beating up puppies or something.

5th you got on a large forum talking trash when it seems to me like you really dont know what you are talking about.

not trying to be a dick, but what you've done here is not professional.

i had a shop build my engine wth used bearings and stuff, didnt come on here bashing. I learned to build them myself.

 

I took the car to a dealer to get a compression check that it! So builder cant be held responsible? .........http://www.banzai-racing.com/ So I guess they just like to advertise this? They are putting a warranty on their name. I am not bashing anyone bashing someone is like calling them a worthless Fuc%&ing piece of ****. That's bashing someone. I respect the guy I just don't trust him and that is my right, I can voice my opinion about someone right?

If I worked on a guys engine and I will want people to know what happened also. So maybe they can go there with a bit of knowledge. Why keep it to yourself?

 

Any builder will built it right is the matter of what apex seal to use. Go with the RA super seals or ALS seals that take alot of abuse before warping and if they warp you still save everything in the motor. My friend detenated his motor throughout the 1/4 miles with the super seal and cracked the front and rear iron but the seal were still good.

 

radiant i sent you a pm with who i would recommend in FL.

 

Thank you.

 

Two engines in a relatively equal amount of run time tells us its the setup or something you are doing... Maybe they did exactly what you payed them to do.

i bought my second FD with a GT40 kit already installed. Well the idiots who wired the ECU did it wrong. I blew two engines before i figured it out (ignition wiring). My builder did what he was supposed to do, nothing more than what he was payed to do. As soon as someone tunes my car i will not touch the ECU/boost/AI settings unless im putting it in "valet mode" so it wont go over 2500rpms.

I see kids talk their parents into buying an Fd/Supra and the first mod they do is throw on a boost controller and blow it up. Its always the cars fault or the tuners, but never themselves.