Alternator housings replacement
#1
Alternator housings replacement
Hey guys, in my searching it looks as if my voltage regulator is going out on my alternator.
I took the alternator out and took it to an automotive electrics shop where it checked out ok, he asked me to reinstall and bring the car in where they found that my crappy positive battery terminal needed to be replaced during their diagnosis. I knew this already but didn't realize despite the ugliness it was a bad connection.
Next time I drive the car to work I am driving home and getting that oh so sudden 11.8 voltage reading when I turn a corner and it jumps back to 13.8 on the highway as I am cruising the car home at 55mph.
I am assuming when the alternator was checked the voltage regulator must have been in "ok" mode at that time, perhaps because it was cold but who knows.
SO, the next step to rebuild or buy new? I am looking at buying new, however I have polished housings. I am wondering if anyone has ever taken these off themselves, I am looking to swap it. What should I watch out for? It seems easy....but is anything ever as easy as initially perceived?
I took the alternator out and took it to an automotive electrics shop where it checked out ok, he asked me to reinstall and bring the car in where they found that my crappy positive battery terminal needed to be replaced during their diagnosis. I knew this already but didn't realize despite the ugliness it was a bad connection.
Next time I drive the car to work I am driving home and getting that oh so sudden 11.8 voltage reading when I turn a corner and it jumps back to 13.8 on the highway as I am cruising the car home at 55mph.
I am assuming when the alternator was checked the voltage regulator must have been in "ok" mode at that time, perhaps because it was cold but who knows.
SO, the next step to rebuild or buy new? I am looking at buying new, however I have polished housings. I am wondering if anyone has ever taken these off themselves, I am looking to swap it. What should I watch out for? It seems easy....but is anything ever as easy as initially perceived?
#4
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
If you choose to remove your housings yourself, it's pretty intuitive. Air tools make getting the pulley off easy. And IIRC there is one of three large phillip screws that are kind of shielded and you have to be a little careful. When re-assembling you'll need a sewing needle or similar to push through the little hole in the back to retain the brushes (you'll see what I mean).
The only other thing that I recall was that I used a plastic dead-blow hammer to knock the housings loose and separate them...they're a little tight. If yours were off for the polishing they may not be as tight as mine. All in all, no big deal.
The only other thing that I recall was that I used a plastic dead-blow hammer to knock the housings loose and separate them...they're a little tight. If yours were off for the polishing they may not be as tight as mine. All in all, no big deal.
#6
Thanks for the play by play SGTBlue, and FD3s2005 for your opinion on your rebuilt alt.
#7
How do I made boost?
I also had my alt rebuilt/upgraded to 140 amp by RES I had just replaced my failing alt with a Mazda reman but still had barely enough voltage, at the time my IAC didn't work so it didn't bump the idle up for voltage load, that combined with my pulley kit, HID headlights HID fog lights at night wasn't cutting it when the fans came on. I got the upgrade and it fixed everything including keeping my car cooler in traffic in the summer. I never thought about it but of course more voltage at idle = more air flow from the fans = cooler temps. It was the first summer I could run the A/C in stop and go traffic and keep the temps where I like them.
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#8
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iTrader: (41)
I also had my alt rebuilt/upgraded to 140 amp by RES I had just replaced my failing alt with a Mazda reman but still had barely enough voltage, at the time my IAC didn't work so it didn't bump the idle up for voltage load, that combined with my pulley kit, HID headlights HID fog lights at night wasn't cutting it when the fans came on. I got the upgrade and it fixed everything including keeping my car cooler in traffic in the summer. I never thought about it but of course more voltage at idle = more air flow from the fans = cooler temps. It was the first summer I could run the A/C in stop and go traffic and keep the temps where I like them.
#9
I also had my alt rebuilt/upgraded to 140 amp by RES I had just replaced my failing alt with a Mazda reman but still had barely enough voltage, at the time my IAC didn't work so it didn't bump the idle up for voltage load, that combined with my pulley kit, HID headlights HID fog lights at night wasn't cutting it when the fans came on. I got the upgrade and it fixed everything including keeping my car cooler in traffic in the summer. I never thought about it but of course more voltage at idle = more air flow from the fans = cooler temps. It was the first summer I could run the A/C in stop and go traffic and keep the temps where I like them.
Shoot I was thinking about doing the HIDs and forgot so this is a good reason to do the upgrade.
#10
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iTrader: (41)
What pulleys are different on your setup? I ask because I have an aftermarket water pulley and I installed the pineapple racing idler pulley right before seven stock. I thought the idler pulley was there to help the alternator.
Shoot I was thinking about doing the HIDs and forgot so this is a good reason to do the upgrade.
Shoot I was thinking about doing the HIDs and forgot so this is a good reason to do the upgrade.
#11
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iTrader: (41)
What pulleys are different on your setup? I ask because I have an aftermarket water pulley and I installed the pineapple racing idler pulley right before seven stock. I thought the idler pulley was there to help the alternator.
Shoot I was thinking about doing the HIDs and forgot so this is a good reason to do the upgrade.
Shoot I was thinking about doing the HIDs and forgot so this is a good reason to do the upgrade.
#12
SideWayZ The Only Way
iTrader: (11)
double post ^ lol
true, after i removed the air pump and went with aftermarket alt/water pulleys, my gauge lights were pretty dim at idle and decent at driving speeds, you could see the lights brighten a little when i reved it,,, after i got the 140volt alt lights are bright and stay that way at idle.
true, after i removed the air pump and went with aftermarket alt/water pulleys, my gauge lights were pretty dim at idle and decent at driving speeds, you could see the lights brighten a little when i reved it,,, after i got the 140volt alt lights are bright and stay that way at idle.
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