Alternator housings replacement
 

Hey guys, in my searching it looks as if my voltage regulator is going out on my alternator.

I took the alternator out and took it to an automotive electrics shop where it checked out ok, he asked me to reinstall and bring the car in where they found that my crappy positive battery terminal needed to be replaced during their diagnosis. I knew this already but didn't realize despite the ugliness it was a bad connection.
Next time I drive the car to work I am driving home and getting that oh so sudden 11.8 voltage reading when I turn a corner and it jumps back to 13.8 on the highway as I am cruising the car home at 55mph.
I am assuming when the alternator was checked the voltage regulator must have been in "ok" mode at that time, perhaps because it was cold but who knows.
SO, the next step to rebuild or buy new? I am looking at buying new, however I have polished housings. I am wondering if anyone has ever taken these off themselves, I am looking to swap it. What should I watch out for? It seems easy....but is anything ever as easy as initially perceived?

I can have your existing alternator rebuilt. I also offer a 140 amp upgrade. I can swap new internals into your existing case. Shoot me a pm.

+1 meiogirl, i just got mine rebuilt by RES and i think its a major thing we all need. my voltage would sometimes drop also when i had the old one in..

o and btw nice BIOGRAPHY and nice work in maya lol, very nice

If you choose to remove your housings yourself, it's pretty intuitive. Air tools make getting the pulley off easy. And IIRC there is one of three large phillip screws that are kind of shielded and you have to be a little careful. When re-assembling you'll need a sewing needle or similar to push through the little hole in the back to retain the brushes (you'll see what I mean).
The only other thing that I recall was that I used a plastic dead-blow hammer to knock the housings loose and separate them...they're a little tight. If yours were off for the polishing they may not be as tight as mine. All in all, no big deal.

I don't think you can even buy a 'new' alternator from Mazda. They are only factory remans.

yeah, I did some calling around yesterday and found this out. The post I saw here about new ones for Mazda was only a couple years old, man how quickly the times change.

Thanks for the play by play SGTBlue, and FD3s2005 for your opinion on your rebuilt alt.

I also had my alt rebuilt/upgraded to 140 amp by RES I had just replaced my failing alt with a Mazda reman but still had barely enough voltage, at the time my IAC didn't work so it didn't bump the idle up for voltage load, that combined with my pulley kit, HID headlights HID fog lights at night wasn't cutting it when the fans came on. I got the upgrade and it fixed everything including keeping my car cooler in traffic in the summer. I never thought about it but of course more voltage at idle = more air flow from the fans = cooler temps. It was the first summer I could run the A/C in stop and go traffic and keep the temps where I like them.

The upgrades definitely help, especially when you run additional lights or gauges. Unfortunately the company that manufactured the larger stator went out of business, so there is going to be a slight price change. I will post something shortly.

What pulleys are different on your setup? I ask because I have an aftermarket water pulley and I installed the pineapple racing idler pulley right before seven stock. I thought the idler pulley was there to help the alternator.
Shoot I was thinking about doing the HIDs and forgot so this is a good reason to do the upgrade.

The aftermarket water pump and alternator pulley kits actually hurt alterntor performance. The larger water pump pulley is needed to maintain belt contact with the water pump pulley when eliminating the air pump. There is VERY little horsepower gains to be had by changing pulleys on these cars. I'd be surprised if you can measure it. The alternator will work best with the stock pulley, but since you were already underdriving your stock alternator this will help you.

The aftermarket water pump and alternator pulley kits actually hurt alternator performance. The larger water pump pulley is needed to maintain belt contact with the water pump pulley when eliminating the air pump. There is VERY little horsepower gains to be had by changing pulleys on these cars. I'd be surprised if you can measure it. The alternator will work best with the stock pulley, but since you were already underdriving your stock alternator this will help you.

double post ^ lol

true, after i removed the air pump and went with aftermarket alt/water pulleys, my gauge lights were pretty dim at idle and decent at driving speeds, you could see the lights brighten a little when i reved it,,, after i got the 140volt alt lights are bright and stay that way at idle.