I have a 92 Efini FD RHD imported from Japan. It only has 50000 KM on it and runs pretty good. I've done all the standard stuff to it. New AST, plugs, plug wires, O2 sensor, new fluids, fuel filter, couplers, coolant hoses, ground wires, gauges, check values, etc ... The modes it came with ... 3" cat back exhaust (don't know what kind), HKS suspension, 18" or 19" rims, Greddy blow off valve, Greddy turbo timer, down pipe, and ARC air filter. I just installed a Bonez High Flow Cat and the idle is a little bit off (seems to be searching and a little bit rough). I cleaned the throttle body, adjusted it, and adjusted the tps and still a bit off. I talked to the RX7 mechanic in town and he said check your air pump. Well I took a closer look and found the hoses to the ARC filter system from the air pump were closed off and it seems the air pump has been disabled. I checked the connection on top of the air pump and it's still hooked up and the relay for the air pump at the front of the vehicle is still in. Is there another way it may have been disabled? Perhaps a fuse in the kick panel? I can't tell it's all in Japanese. Any Ideas?

Any help would greatly be appriciated.

Thanks.

 

Are you saying the airhose from the airpump to the airbox has been plugged? If the airpump cannot get air, then it has been effectively disabled. I would imagine that over time, that will damage the airpump if the inlet hose has been plugged but the airpump is left connected.

 

Are you saying that the magnetic clutch is not engaging? If it isn't, the first thing I would do is hook up a multimeter to the two pins of the plug that connect to the airpump and see if the ECU is trying to switch it on or not. If not, then your problem is electrical. The airpump wires are known to become brittle and short out, causing the fuse to blow as you suggested.

If the electrical signal is okay, however , and the clutch isn't engaging, then you will have to diagnose the pump itself. Perhaps the previous owner deliberately disabled the airpump (removed the internals, cut the coil winding, etc.) or it just needs to be replaced. My car has 86k original miles and is on its third airpump already.

 

Yes the hose is plugged. I'm pretty sure the magnetic clutch is not engaging. The air box looks like it's not built to run with the air pump. The hose that runs from the air pump goes to the air box but it's just plugged. So I'm pretty sure the air pump was disabled when they replaced the air box I'm just not sure how? Usually it's just disconnected at the top of the air pump, right? Is there a fuse in the kick panel? I'll test for voltage after work today. Is there a specific point where the air pump is supposed to kick in?

 

The A/C and the air pump share the same fuse. As for the air pump operation, its active at low rpms (below 3200 rpms).

 

If the clutch is not engaging, it will be very obvious. The center of the air pump "pulley" will not be turning. Mahjik is right that the clutch disengages at around 3200 rpm. So you can see quickly if the clutch is working properly by quick revs to above 3200 rpms. In other words, the clutch should disengage at that point if it is working correctly.

Also check the plumbing back to the cat to be sure it is being supplied with air. That is the primary purpose for the air pump.

 

Okay I checked it with a voltmeter and it's definitely not getting any power. Where could it be disconnected?

 

Oh ya, no clutch movement.

 

Any one? I'd rather some tell me where the wires run to then me pulling stuff apart to follow the lines go.

 

There is only one wire for the air pump and its part of the harness. Check the wiring diagram:

http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/ho...ng_Diagram.zip

 

You may want to check the wires in the front fuse box(the one nearest the hood latch). I had a situation a while back where I found the insulation had worn off of a wire inside the box leading to the air pump relay. It was shorting out and disabling the air pump. The fuse box comes apart with some plastic tabs or snaps if I remember correctly.

The only problem is that it should be burning out the fuse if it is shorting in this manner. Maybe it has completely frayed apart in your car?? Just a thought.

 

I hate to dig up an old thread, but I just recently got a ARC airbox and no instructions. I noticed as the OP said that the inlet and return of the airpump 'attach' to the ARC airbox, but the bungs are closed off. Will this damage the pump?

Mods:
Greddy downpipe and mid (catless)
PowerFC