KeithC

I think it's giving up. After coming home the other day I noticed a clicking noise. This morning I checked it again....same clicking. It looks like the the metal disc on the front of what I guess is the air pump is moving in and out making the clicking noise. My guess is that its some type of clutch on the front of the pump.

Anybody have any experience with this?

Does it need replacing?

I have reasonable mechanical ability, it doesn't look too difficult to replace.

Any advice would be appreciated

moehler

iTrader: (12)

When mine went the clutch inside it made a horrible screaching sound and it spit metal filings all over the place. I'm not sure from your description if yours needs to be replaced, but if it does get a used one ($50 compared to $1k new) and put it in yourself. It's very easy to put it in (two or three bolts and the belt). If you have a high flow cat you should call the company and see if the cat needs an air pump or not ( I know N-Techs cat does not). If not, you can just unplug the pump until you replace it. If you have the stock cat you should replace it as soon as possible.

KeithC

I'm not sure if this is an air pump or the air conditioning compressor. It sits right behind the stock air intake box. It makes the clicking noise with the air conditioning on or off and it cools without any problem.

The warning light for the oil pressure and water temp are dimly on as well. I hope this is not some kind of vacuume problem. I havent found a good rotary mechanic here in Phoenix yet.

I went by the dealer and asked about the price of the compressor.......$1600.....OUCH

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

I've seen a web site of a shop in Gilbert,AZ. I believe it was called Intense Motorsports? Not sure of the quality or availability of their work, but they had some nice project cars when i saw the site. I used to live in Tempe. How does your car like that heat? I was always curious about that. The air pump is behind the intake. A/C is on the drivers side under the power steering pump. Check the used parts section here maybe someone has gotten a ECU recently and ditched theirs. Maybe you want to get an ECU since they are around the same cost of the air-pump....(can't remember...do you have emissions?).... don't know about the lights being dim,, sounds like an electrical gremlin. Let us know if the shop is any good!

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You can always unplug the air pump and see if you still hear the noise (the little connector on top of it). That's a quick way to diagnose the problem.

KeithC

Big - The car is good up to about 105. Above that it seems to run real hot. I bought the car when I lived in Georgia so I dont think it has special emmissions. In Georgia I had a problem with the radiator and replaced it with a larger capacity aluminum one, glad I did now that i'm in AZ.

Your right the noise is coming from the air pump not the A/C. The price from the dealer was for the A/C so thats good.

Are you saying that if I get an ECU I wont need the air pump? Mods are: Down pipe, Cat back. I have one of the Racing Beat intake duct mods(not installed). Being in AZ I want to stay with a cold air intake. I may be wrong but I dont think that many of the intakes on the market perform significantly better than the factory with the R/B mod. I want to keep it simple. I don't plan on racing the car, just the occasional rice boy punisnment.

Thanks

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Unless you are running a midpipe, you need to keep the air pump.

The stock ECU will be looking for it if you remove it. Removing it causes a very rough idle and the car will want to stall sometimes. Resistors can be used to trick the stock ECU into thinking it's still there. However, unless you want to see how fast you can clog your catalytic converter, just locate a used one. There are plenty around for sale.

I picked one up for $50 about 2 years ago for just in case mine goes out.

KeithC

Mahjik - I unpluged the connector....The noise goes away. Looking at it closer, the noise is definatly made when the metal disc on the front of the pully moves out then back aginst the pully. Looks to me like this is a clutch that is trying to engage but cant.

Street King

That's what I was about to say, it sounds like your metal clutch is engaging and dis-engaging also. Check your connector, makes sure it's in proper working order. If you find out you need a new air pump, let me know I have one with everything 50.00 shipped.

KeithC

Thanks Street....I may take you up on that once I get some time to mess with it.

Question: How hard is it to change the belts....Any special tools required?

G Goodman

just replaced mine about a month ago. You can do it with normal hand tools nothing special required, and it only takes about an hour.

oneflytrini

iTrader: (1)

I had this problem also, the Air pump would be making a clicking noise, also the oil and coolant warning light, the ABS and Charge battery light would come on. The problem for me was a busted alternator. I got one for 300$ and put it in my self. Only like 3 or 4 bolts, and a belt.

ALI - 94 Touring Black

KeithC

Onefly - Did your alternator show a reduced voltage output or was it phisicaly broken?

oneflytrini

iTrader: (1)

reduced voltage

KeithC

Had a chance to check the alternator tonight. It is bad.

Thanks for the help guys.......Ill let you know if an alternator replacement corrects the problem.