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Air Filter material comparison

Old Apr 10, 2003 | 09:24 AM
  #1  
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Air Filter material comparison

Check this out...

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 20:16:38 EDT
From:
Subject: FWD Test on oiled air filters

Hi, got this off the Datalogit list, very interesting


>I was responsible for
>evaluating re-usable air filters for a major construction/mining company
>that had hundreds of vehicles ranging from large earthmovers to pick-up
>trucks and salesmen's cars. This study was embarked upon due to the fact
>that we were spending upwards of $30,000 a MONTH on paper air filters.
>Using them one time then throwing them away.. I inititated the study in
>that I was convinced that a K&N type filter or oiled foam would save us
>many dollars per year in filter savings, man hour savings, and of course
>engines as these would filter dirt better than paper. (yes, I had read the
>K&N ads and was a believer) Representative test units were chosen to give
>us a broad spectrum from cars right through large front end loaders. With
>each unit we had a long history of oil analysis records so that changes
>would be trackable. Unfortunately, for me, every single unit having
>alternative re-usable air cleaners showed an immediate large jump in
>silicon (dirt) levels with corresponding major increases in wear metals.
>In one extreme case, a unit with a primary and secondary air cleaner, the
>secondary (small paper element) clogged before even one day's test run
>could be completed. This particular unit had a Cummins V-12 engine that had
>paper/paper one one bank and K&N/paper on the other bank; two completely
>independent induction systems. The conditions were EXACTLY duplicated for
>each bank yet the K&N allowed so much dirt to pass through that the small
>filter became clogged before lunch. The same outcome occured with oiled
>foams on this unit.

>>We discontinued the tests on the large pieces almost

>immediately but continued with service trucks, formen's vehicles, and my
>own company car. Analysis results continued showing markedly increased wear
>rates for all the vehicles, mine included. Test concluded, switched back to
>paper/glass and all vehicles showed reduction back to near original levels
>of both wear metals and dirt. I continued with the K&N on my company car
>out of stubborness and at 85,000 miles the Chevy 305 V-8 wheezed its last
>breath. The top end was sanded badly; bottom end was just fine. End of
>test. I must stress that EVERYONE involved in this test was hoping that
>alternative filters would work as everyone was sick about pulling out a
>perfectly good $85 air cleaner and throwing 4 of them away each week per
>machine... So, I strongly suggest that depending upon an individual's long
>term plan for their vehicles they simply run an oil analysis at least once
>to see that the K&N or whatever alternative air filter is indeed working IN
>THAT APPLICATION... It depends on a person's priorities. If you want
>performance then indeed the K&N is the way to go but at what cost??? And
>no, I do not work for a paper or glass air filter manufacturing company nor
>do I have any affiliation with anything directly or indirectly that could
>benefit George Morrison as a result..


Here's the info I have on air filter performance. Tests were done using
SAE J726C Test Method 5-best --> 1-worst

Oiled foam(AMSOIL,UNI), Paper, Oil Bath, Oiled Gauze,(K&N)

Large particle efficiency 5 5 5 4
Small particle efficiency 5 4 1 2
Airflow capacity 5 2 3 5
Dust holding capacity 4 2 5 2
Load up characteristic 4 1 5 1
Backfire characteristic 3 2 5 3
Cleanability 4 1 4 3

As you can see, K&Ns are great for airflow, which is what they were
designed for. Their original application was on racing engines, where
airflow is important and ultimate engine life was of little consern.
They
are not as good at filtering as paper or oiled foam types.

Sorry that was so long but I thought it was important!
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 09:47 AM
  #2  
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Well, the results really don't surprise me.

You have to make a choice. More airflow or more filtering. Pretty simple concept.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 09:54 AM
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lmao... not as good as "oiled foam types"...

I did read an article when I was selecting my intake which also stated about performance loss due to the non-foam filters getting clogged up fairly quick (which is why I choose the foam type myself).

Oh well, just more information for people to make an informed decision as to what they would like to add to their car. Thanks for the info!
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 10:03 AM
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(in my best Elmer Fudd voice) Hmmmmmm. Vewy Intewesting.

I am strongly considering ditching my K&N now.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 10:13 AM
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Kinda scary isn't it?
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 10:19 AM
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I don't understand the following, what does he mean by top end bottom end?

"I continued with the K&N on my company car out of stubborness and at 85,000 miles the Chevy 305 V-8 wheezed its last breath. The top end was sanded badly; bottom end was just fine."
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 10:46 AM
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Here is AMSOIL's page

http://www.amsoil.com/products/ts.html

Last edited by PVerdieck; Apr 10, 2003 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 10:50 AM
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Here is K&Ns page

http://knfilters.com/facts.htm
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 12:19 PM
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is this for real???
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 12:50 PM
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My personal opinion is that, while the actual bits of fact strewn throughout the article are probably correct, they don't mean a whole lot in a typical sports car environment. Its not like you can do a lot of off-roading in an FD, and its highly unlikely...sad as that it may be...that something else won't get you that rebuild before the K&N filtering ability. I've also heard numerous stories of foam elements crumbling getting sucked into the intake, which is something the K&Ns won't do. I have no plans on ditching mine.

jds

Originally posted by Cihuuy
is this for real???
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 12:53 PM
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Question

How are foam filters like the one on the HKS intake cleaned?
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 01:03 PM
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ok im not saying that this story isnt true but i need to see more facts... where is the website??
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 01:36 PM
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I'll remember to put in a paper filter when I go 4 wheeling in my FD.

The K&N stays!!

Thanks for the info.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 02:21 PM
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Originally posted by Alien7
How are foam filters like the one on the HKS intake cleaned?
You don't, you just replace them. They are about $5-7 a piece.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 03:47 PM
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You know, I remember readind somewhere that the foam filters break down and can get sucked in...I just bought the Airinx filters and the foam it came with is not Foam Foam, it's like Plastic Foam...I don't see how it can break down and get sucked in. I know this doesn't pertain to the subject here but I thought I would chime in.

Me
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 03:53 PM
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Originally posted by apneablue
You know, I remember readind somewhere that the foam filters break down and can get sucked in...I just bought the Airinx filters and the foam it came with is not Foam Foam, it's like Plastic Foam...I don't see how it can break down and get sucked in. I know this doesn't pertain to the subject here but I thought I would chime in.
People are referring to the foam/plastic material that can and will heat up from the underhood engine temps. After a while (mind you, a LONG while), the filter material will dry out and begin to get brittle. After that, it can begin to break off and get sucked down into the intake.

However, I've been running the HKS now for quite a while and I've never had that happen. I change my filters about once a year, but inspect them periodically.

That myth is the same as all the other RX-7 myths. Anything without proper maintenence is bad whether it's air filters or anything else on the car.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 03:58 PM
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Originally posted by bureau_c
I've also heard numerous stories of foam elements crumbling getting sucked into the intake, which is something the K&Ns won't do. I have no plans on ditching mine.

jds
I had a HKS intake with foam filters for a few years with abosolutely NO signs of degredation. I know this is bad of me, but I just regularly cleaned and oiled them. they didn't ever get very dirty do that told me one of two things. either they didn't work, or the engine bay of the FD doesn't get too dirty under normal city/hwy driving conditions. hope it was the second scenario. I replaced them with a couple of regular K&N cone filters.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 04:02 PM
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Originally posted by ISUposs
I had a HKS intake with foam filters for a few years with abosolutely NO signs of degredation. I know this is bad of me, but I just regularly cleaned and oiled them. they didn't ever get very dirty do that told me one of two things. either they didn't work, or the engine bay of the FD doesn't get too dirty under normal city/hwy driving conditions. hope it was the second scenario. I replaced them with a couple of regular K&N cone filters.
Hmm, the last time I changed my HKS, the middle portion of the filter was black (from the normal green). The outside of the filter didn't seem to get much use, but they appear to be working well for me (knocking on wood and everything else around me).
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 04:47 PM
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The Chevy V8 is a reciprocating engine, meaning that it uses pistons. The top end is the engine head containing the valves, cams, rocker arms, etc. The bottom end has the pistons, rings, crankshaft, etc.



Originally posted by reza
I don't understand the following, what does he mean by top end bottom end?

"I continued with the K&N on my company car out of stubborness and at 85,000 miles the Chevy 305 V-8 wheezed its last breath. The top end was sanded badly; bottom end was just fine."
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 04:49 PM
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There is not enough detail in that report to come to any accurate conclusions.

People have been using K&N filters in their cars for over 30 years. If it truly accelerated engine wear that badly, there would be solid documentation to the fact.

As DomFD3S pointed out, any type of filter that flows more air is expected to not filter quite as well. Hopefully, few of our vehicles would be subjected to the conditions at a construction/industrial site.....
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 08:51 PM
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MY mechanic puts the pistons and rings in the top end w-pin and small end of the rod in the top end. The rod big end , rod bearings ,crank and crank bearings in the bottom end . Cam in the block with chain or gears is bottom end. Over head cam is top end.
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