Advice for Pre-mixing in Japan [Gas/Oil Premix]
05-26-22, 11:06 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Advice for Pre-mixing in Japan [Gas/Oil Premix]
I am a new owner of a 99 FD looking for a bit of advice when it comes to premixing.
The engine has about 98,000 Km -> 60894.377 miles on it. No rebuild yet.
I want to keep the engine as healthy as possible but apparently idemitsu is only sold in the United States. Despite being a Japanese brand.
I know its not necessary to premix for a healthy engine but from my experience it definitely helps.
Does anyone know any other rotary specific brands? Or any other forms of oil that I can use as premix? Importing idemitsu will rob me.
Thanks for any advice in advance.
The engine has about 98,000 Km -> 60894.377 miles on it. No rebuild yet.
I want to keep the engine as healthy as possible but apparently idemitsu is only sold in the United States. Despite being a Japanese brand.
I know its not necessary to premix for a healthy engine but from my experience it definitely helps.
Does anyone know any other rotary specific brands? Or any other forms of oil that I can use as premix? Importing idemitsu will rob me.
Thanks for any advice in advance.
05-27-22, 12:01 AM
#2
Any quality synthetic 2stroke oil rated for racing motocross if you are pedantic, but in reality any low ash garden variety of 2 stroke oil is sufficient.
A lot of old school rotor heads swear by Stihl oil as it is the industry standard for commercial equipment in logging and agriculture, but others say it is rebranded Castrol mineral 2t. Either way both excellent choices, but again, racing oil if you are pedantic. Availability is an important factor.
A lot of old school rotor heads swear by Stihl oil as it is the industry standard for commercial equipment in logging and agriculture, but others say it is rebranded Castrol mineral 2t. Either way both excellent choices, but again, racing oil if you are pedantic. Availability is an important factor.
Last edited by WANKfactor; 05-27-22 at 12:04 AM.
05-27-22, 01:02 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Any quality synthetic 2stroke oil rated for racing motocross if you are pedantic, but in reality any low ash garden variety of 2 stroke oil is sufficient.
A lot of old school rotor heads swear by Stihl oil as it is the industry standard for commercial equipment in logging and agriculture, but others say it is rebranded Castrol mineral 2t. Either way both excellent choices, but again, racing oil if you are pedantic. Availability is an important factor.
A lot of old school rotor heads swear by Stihl oil as it is the industry standard for commercial equipment in logging and agriculture, but others say it is rebranded Castrol mineral 2t. Either way both excellent choices, but again, racing oil if you are pedantic. Availability is an important factor.
I was thinking about Castrol Power 1 racing. Should be good. Thanks!
05-27-22, 05:57 AM
#4
Agreed…any quality low-ash 2-cycle is fine. Marine 2-cycle usually fits the bill as well.
Mixing at a rate of .5 (1/2) oz. per gallon, with a working Oil Metering Pump, is the generally accepted ratio here in the U.S. You’ll have to do you’re own metric conversion.
Mixing at a rate of .5 (1/2) oz. per gallon, with a working Oil Metering Pump, is the generally accepted ratio here in the U.S. You’ll have to do you’re own metric conversion.
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AcRx_7 (05-27-22)
05-27-22, 08:21 AM
#5
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Personally, I think premix is a waste of time. I've yet to see an engine that needed a rebuild where I thought "if only they would have premixed this wouldn't have happened". 99% of FD engines either overheat and break a water seal or break an apex seal, premix isn't helping that.
On a street driven car, run quality oil and change every 3000 miles. Run the engine at a sane temperature. Stay on top of spark plug changes. Do that and the engine will last 100,000 miles.
Dale
On a street driven car, run quality oil and change every 3000 miles. Run the engine at a sane temperature. Stay on top of spark plug changes. Do that and the engine will last 100,000 miles.
Dale
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05-28-22, 09:37 AM
#6
Any 2T with a JASO FC or JASO FD certification should do well. It'll be on the can usually as [FC] It cleans the injectors and fights off deposits too. I usually get 4-5 full tanks per 1L bottle of 2T. I honestly just kind of feel for it and less is more since the OMP works.
I think the stuff you picked there is the nice expensive stuff, I'm fairly sure it's JASO FC if not FD certified (more detergents). I get the Castrol GO! it's a bit cheaper, like 500 yen cheaper (5$ for you Gaijin folks). There's also some MOTUL stuff that's like 30-60$ depending where you go.
I feel your pain trying to get idemitsu, luckily we got tons of 2T oils here. I usually pick mine up at the local autobacs. I honestly prefer it here compared to when I was using idemitsu back in the states just way easier to get my hands on it and cheaper.
just a FYI for everyone else we got tons of 2 stroke mopeds and wacky stuff here.
I think the stuff you picked there is the nice expensive stuff, I'm fairly sure it's JASO FC if not FD certified (more detergents). I get the Castrol GO! it's a bit cheaper, like 500 yen cheaper (5$ for you Gaijin folks). There's also some MOTUL stuff that's like 30-60$ depending where you go.
I feel your pain trying to get idemitsu, luckily we got tons of 2T oils here. I usually pick mine up at the local autobacs. I honestly prefer it here compared to when I was using idemitsu back in the states just way easier to get my hands on it and cheaper.
just a FYI for everyone else we got tons of 2 stroke mopeds and wacky stuff here.
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AcRx_7 (05-28-22)
05-30-22, 08:27 PM
#7
www.AusRotary.com
Not needed on a stock engine.
Check your OMP lines and the check valves, as that is the most likely point of failure in the oil metering system.
At 100,000km though, there are much more important things to worry about....number 1 being replace your fuel filter as it is due for replacement at 100,000km but in reality should be replaced much more frequently.
Check your OMP lines and the check valves, as that is the most likely point of failure in the oil metering system.
At 100,000km though, there are much more important things to worry about....number 1 being replace your fuel filter as it is due for replacement at 100,000km but in reality should be replaced much more frequently.
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06-01-22, 05:25 AM
#8
Personally I don’t think it’s a waste of time at all….but it comes with some ‘IF’s .
IF you can control carbon, are running a cat that tolerates it, and don’t have emissions testing.
I think it will help with hard seal wear, iron wear, housing wear/chatter marks and dynamic compression. There are maybe lesser reasons too, if a brittle stock OMP line started to leak…and wasn’t noticed right away, or an injector plugged.
At the proper ratio my experience is that there is little to no extra smoke at the rear, a modern hi-flow cat doesn’t care, fuel filters don’t care, intuitively it would retard fuel oxidation on a car that sits a lot and may also help with corrosion in the tank with enthanol blends. And a simple WI system will keep carbon in check (and comes with other benefits). YRMV
IF you can control carbon, are running a cat that tolerates it, and don’t have emissions testing.
I think it will help with hard seal wear, iron wear, housing wear/chatter marks and dynamic compression. There are maybe lesser reasons too, if a brittle stock OMP line started to leak…and wasn’t noticed right away, or an injector plugged.
At the proper ratio my experience is that there is little to no extra smoke at the rear, a modern hi-flow cat doesn’t care, fuel filters don’t care, intuitively it would retard fuel oxidation on a car that sits a lot and may also help with corrosion in the tank with enthanol blends. And a simple WI system will keep carbon in check (and comes with other benefits). YRMV
Last edited by Sgtblue; 06-01-22 at 04:05 PM.
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AcRx_7 (06-01-22)
06-02-22, 02:14 PM
#9
Personally I don’t think it’s a waste of time at all….but it comes with some ‘IF’s .
IF you can control carbon, are running a cat that tolerates it, and don’t have emissions testing.
I think it will help with hard seal wear, iron wear, housing wear/chatter marks and dynamic compression. There are maybe lesser reasons too, if a brittle stock OMP line started to leak…and wasn’t noticed right away, or an injector plugged.
At the proper ratio my experience is that there is little to no extra smoke at the rear, a modern hi-flow cat doesn’t care, fuel filters don’t care, intuitively it would retard fuel oxidation on a car that sits a lot and may also help with corrosion in the tank with enthanol blends. And a simple WI system will keep carbon in check (and comes with other benefits). YRMV
IF you can control carbon, are running a cat that tolerates it, and don’t have emissions testing.
I think it will help with hard seal wear, iron wear, housing wear/chatter marks and dynamic compression. There are maybe lesser reasons too, if a brittle stock OMP line started to leak…and wasn’t noticed right away, or an injector plugged.
At the proper ratio my experience is that there is little to no extra smoke at the rear, a modern hi-flow cat doesn’t care, fuel filters don’t care, intuitively it would retard fuel oxidation on a car that sits a lot and may also help with corrosion in the tank with enthanol blends. And a simple WI system will keep carbon in check (and comes with other benefits). YRMV
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