ABS dead.
#1
ABS dead.
Ok here is the problem; I did a 0-60 run a while back when I launched the car the wheels spun a bit. Then I came to a stop. Didn’t slam on the brakes but gave firm pressure. It really didn’t feel right. The next day I was driving around town and had to stop hard, light changed red. The ABS light came on and it locked up.
Now when I hit the brakes hard it does it all the time, I have the aftermarket BBK Rotora. I’m thinking that the sensors are dirty? Or maybe the whole ABS system is bad? I changed and flushed the lines with fresh brake fluid and they still lock up. Does anyone have a photo of the sensors? How hard will it be to rebuild the ABS system?
I just hate my brakes locking up like they do.
Now when I hit the brakes hard it does it all the time, I have the aftermarket BBK Rotora. I’m thinking that the sensors are dirty? Or maybe the whole ABS system is bad? I changed and flushed the lines with fresh brake fluid and they still lock up. Does anyone have a photo of the sensors? How hard will it be to rebuild the ABS system?
I just hate my brakes locking up like they do.
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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I'm not sure if the FD actually does this but usually a code is written to memory on the ABS computer and you should be able to read them to find the exact problem.
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#8
The Anti-Prius
iTrader: (9)
Over time the abs pump relay will stick closed when it gets hot. If you pull the fuse & wait for the relay to cool down it will operate normal again (until the next time the relay gets hot & sticks closed)
Short story..............
I got the ABS light & experianced massive front brake lock during an autocross event.
When I opened the hood I could hear the ABS Motor running. Even after I shut engine off & removed the key, the ABS Motor just continued to run.
I pulled the ABS fuses (40 & 15 amp) from the fuse/relay box near the left strut tower. This shut the ABS Motor off, but I still had the light & some serious front brake bias.
With the engine still off I put the fuses back in & the ABS Motor started running again, so I pulled the fuses to save my battery. After a while (1/2hr or so) I put the fuses back in & all was back to normal. It stayed that way for a couple of months.
Then during a lapping day I got massive front brake lock up (the right front tire taking the brunt) & ended up flat spotting my R compound tire to the cord. The F*cking ABS light was on again. Back in the pits, with the hood up, I could hear the ABS Motor running.
The ABS Hydro Electrical unit (r/h corner of the engine compartment, has two relays under the black plastic cover. One is for the Pump Motor & the other is for the Valve.
I removed & tested both relays on the bench with voltage. They operated normally. I heated the Pump Motor relay up to 250' F & applied voltage. The damn thing stuck closed. After it cooled down it snapped open.
That's why the system would return to normal if I waited prior to reinstalling the fuses.
During normal street driving you don't cycle the ABS much, if at all. On the track it must be cycling & generating a bunch of heat (due to high resistance & poor contact).
Summary?
I replaced both relays in the ABS Hydro Elect unit. They cost around $60 for the pair. They originals lasted 13 years, not to bad in my book.
ABS Motor Relay: NA23-43-7A2
ABS Valve Relay: NA23-43-7A3
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#11
wannaspeed.com
iTrader: (23)
My seems to be having an issue now too. I'm going to check the relays and speed sensors. Is there a particular way to test the speed sensors and clean them? I'm hoping it's just the relay. A couple weeks back I heard the pump running even though the car was off. I just disconnected the battery cause I wasnt ready to deal with it at the time. Today I definitely could tell the ABS wasn't working.
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