damn bro sounds like a nightmare wish i could help

 

As we talked before, I would go ahead and check the operation of the double throttle. As I mentioned before, I noticed some violent hesitation on my car during cold running after removing it. If yours is not working properly, that could be an issue:

If that checks out, its time to look at your ignition components.

 

Okay, as for the DTC, I did pull the hose off the DTC actuator right after I cold started it. The rod on the actuator pushed in quickly. I plugged the vac line. I never drove it like this. It didn't seem to change the rev...are you suggesting that I plug the hose going to the actuator and try driving it? Would I need to plug the nipple on the actuator itself? Also, in the line that goes from the manifold to the DTC actuator...is there supposed to be a check valve in that line?

 

UGHH...still having serious issues here. Since replaced the map, it hasn't smoked anymore. However, it is so doggy and bucks like a son-of-a-gun on take off. I did go to about 5 psi of boost today, it is was jerking the whole time in boost. Idle is smooth, but even free-revving the car is rough....I want to determine if the double throttle has anything to do with it....

 

Nope, not on the actuator side. The check valve for the DT system is on the front side of the UIM.

 

I see that now. I assume any of the vac ports on the front of the manifold will work ?

 

Yep all vacuum sucks equally.

 

This car sucks equally.

 

I'm not going through this entire thread again, but have you tried swapping out the TPS?

 

Rich, that is something that has been in the back of my mind even today...It is worth a shot really....I mean, the map showed good and was bad....

Trev

 

Well, not much of one, but about 10 miles. I re-adjusted the TPS which I found to be off. I then re-adjusted air bleed and idle screws. I have it idling at about 900-1000. Fully warmed vacuum was 18-20, so that was good. temps reached a max of 210F. Temps here are about 55. SO, it was the best that the car has ran since I got the new motor in 6 months ago. However, it is still bucking and very doggy under lower RPM acceleration (especially on take off....very bad.) On take off, in order to avoid major bucking I really need to rev it and ride the clutch out a little to make it smoother. Boost is still pretty weak. I have taken it to about 5-6 PSI, but nothing at WOT yet. I am trying to figure out why in the world it is still bucking/jerking under accel and especially take off and also under boost. Idle is smooth and no smoke. again, compression is 105 on all faces/both rotors. I have been entertaining the idle that there are some clutch issues at hand, but I am having a hard time pinpointing those. I do feel a ray of hope, but I just want this car to be a light, smooth accelerating FD.

Trev

 

Sorry i may sound like a total newb but
what exactly is "riding the clutch"

 

Basically instead of letting the clutch out completely and taking off, you are letting it out partially to begin going while really giving it some gas, eventually releasing it out once you have some rpms built up to ensure a smooth take off (only a smooth take off in my case...if your car is running normal, don't ride the clutch) I plan on fixing this so I don't have to ride it and wear it out.

 

so then technically what is a perfect launch then without riding the clutch a bit ?
i mean if your going to not ride the clutch at all then your going to get "jerkkyness" ?

 

have you installed a fuel pump lately? I had bucking and low boost situations when i installed my walbro kinda incorrectly as in it was leaking a little.

 

How are your injectors?

 

fuel pump hasn't been tampered with. Injectors are good. Just had the cleaned and tested when I did the motor about 40 miles ago. I am not getting any check engine lights either, but I know my knock sensor has been rewired and the car almost feels like limp mode. I may try and swap out a different one.

 

Well, the car definately runs better at operating temp then not. However, it is still lacking power and doggy. I just borrowed a friends TPS and his knock sensor. I will swap out the TPS and try that first. Then I will go with the KS.

Trev

 

After a rebuild my FD would occasionally buck, nothing consistently. Then I blew it up. Turns out that using my old wiring harness was a bad idea and a secondary injector wasnt getting signal. Possibly you have a primary injector issue. What is the condition of your harness?

 

Just throwing out some ideas here: Have you "visually" checked that all 4 injectors are firing the correct amount? FSM has specs on how to do this. Have you "visually" checked that all 4 spark plugs are firing correctly? Often, wiring or lines get messed up, and an actual inspection of the parts in operation is the only way to know for sure.


Off topic, the thread title made me think of that song by Cake:
"He's going the distance..... he's going for speed....."

-Rob

 

The wiring harness is something that I am thinking about. It is original (121k) and has a few issues. While the motor was out, I did re-wrap it in new electrical tape to make it more flexible. I sure hope I didn't do anything wrong doing that. Sounds like I need to check the injectors. The condition of those are great. With the primaries, I would think if there were an issue, the car wouldn't idle as smooth as it does....

Trev

 

Just throwing random thoughts out too Trev....the hesitation/stumble on initial throttle sounds a little like the (unpredictable) symtoms reported by some with AP removal on stock ECU.

 

Wow! 121k on the harness?? That might be your problem right there.

 

I mentioned that in the other thread, because with that age and all the work done around that area I can't imagine that it IS working properly.

Mine had 60k when my car started acting funky. The harness solved it.

Dave

 

Jim, I know what you are saying about the AP, but I thought that there were several people running without them connected on a stock ECU. Not to mention, my car still ran like this on the PFC.