About to throw the fd away
08-16-07, 04:20 PM
#76
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just install a fuel pressure gauge and be done with it. Just buy a T, 5/16 fittings, a long piece of 5/16 fuel line and a 10$ compressor gauge from any auto store (0-100 PSI) that you will run on your window, hanging by the wipers. Go do the test and see if your fuel pressure is good. If the fuel pressure drops quickly after you shut the car off, you either have a leaky injector or a leak somewhere.
about the pfc, it can be just in the tuning, is the map in the pfc and every setting stock? It can be the acceleration enrichment that need to be tweaked but if it was tuned for an other car and you don't have the same mod, it won't work well that's for sure.
Yes, brand new rebuilt injectors can go bad, a guy to whom i installed a new engine received two primaries that were rebuilt, none were clicking. Changed on waranty and one was still not clicking. Put the old one back in and engine trated right away. Rebuilt injectors are not worth ****, i just buy new one, they are not that expensive.
about the pfc, it can be just in the tuning, is the map in the pfc and every setting stock? It can be the acceleration enrichment that need to be tweaked but if it was tuned for an other car and you don't have the same mod, it won't work well that's for sure.
Yes, brand new rebuilt injectors can go bad, a guy to whom i installed a new engine received two primaries that were rebuilt, none were clicking. Changed on waranty and one was still not clicking. Put the old one back in and engine trated right away. Rebuilt injectors are not worth ****, i just buy new one, they are not that expensive.
08-16-07, 04:26 PM
#77
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Alrighty....so, tonight....my buddy comes over, we connect a PFC and datalogit to the car. Everything as far as sensors were in spec. The one thing we noticed is that the E/L was ON even though there weren't any loads (ie lights, defrost...nothing) Anyways, we started it up on the PFC. It warmed up and idled good...little lopey, but good idle. The issue was lying in the fact that when we were under the hood and revving the throttle, there is a dead spot or cut out between when we push the throttle down and when it actually revs. it is choking basically. So, I am suggesting Vacuum leak or Fuel issue....anyone agree? I am fearing that the lower intake manifold gasket is to blame (it's brand new, just fear it because it is the most work to get at) I am going to test a few options with fuel first like bypass the fuel pump resistor solenoid (the last one on the rack towards the firewall)
If it were a vaccum leak , the motor would idel very high , like above 1500 rpm depending on the size of the leak . I think its a "lack of fuel" issue . Check the wire connectors to the primary injectors , make sure they are good , U can also try switching them around , this made a huge difference to mine when I had the haltech computer. Also check to see if the double throttle is opening when it warms up.
08-16-07, 06:10 PM
#78
08-17-07, 12:28 PM
#83
This is why I was against using the PFC as it now adds in another variable (i.e. tuning). I would still recommend checking the fuel pressure. You should be able to see if the pressure is dropping when you notice the problem. If it's not dropping when the cutout happens, then at least you know it's most likely not fuel related.
08-17-07, 01:20 PM
#84
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Kyle,
I totally understand your POV as far as the PFC is concerned. I mainly wanted to try it and see if it were an ECU issue. The car seemed to be steadier than the stock ECU. I am going to do the fuel pressure gauge hopefully tonight if I can get the parts somewhere and rig it up. I know that will tell me a lot. I am entertaining the idea that the sock filter on the pump itself is clogged. Is it possible for the FP to be weak and just not be pumping as much as it should on account of age and wear? I would assume a clog is more likely the issue.
I totally understand your POV as far as the PFC is concerned. I mainly wanted to try it and see if it were an ECU issue. The car seemed to be steadier than the stock ECU. I am going to do the fuel pressure gauge hopefully tonight if I can get the parts somewhere and rig it up. I know that will tell me a lot. I am entertaining the idea that the sock filter on the pump itself is clogged. Is it possible for the FP to be weak and just not be pumping as much as it should on account of age and wear? I would assume a clog is more likely the issue.
08-17-07, 03:49 PM
#87
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Gimpo, were you getting a CEL for the temp sensor?
Kyle, My car did run like crap before the new motor...but it accelerated perfectly compared to now. I am eliminating the fuel, then I will look at sensors.
Kyle, My car did run like crap before the new motor...but it accelerated perfectly compared to now. I am eliminating the fuel, then I will look at sensors.
08-17-07, 09:10 PM
#88
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Unfortunately, no one local has a FP gauge. So, while I wait for it, I will try and be patient. I used the PFC tonight and added fuel at the 1000 RPM range. it was set at 6.000 and I changed it to 20.000 When I change that, the throttle response was better...a little snappier, but it was still cutting out, then catching up and revving like 1 or 2 seconds later. I put the stock ecu back in and the throttle response was WAYY more snappy...almost normal, but a little cut out still. It drove better on the stock ecu then the pfc. I noticed it is still doggy/bucky/hesitant starting out in 1 and 2 under the 2500 rpms range. I noticed that over 3k, it was very responsive...like ready to boost without an issue. However, after I would go around a curve at 30 mph and stay constant on the throttle (in 3rd or 2nd) as soon as I release the accelerator and coast, i get TONS of smoke. It was dark out, so couldn't tell, but looked grey. I did bypass the last solenoid on the rats nest by the firewall and just connected the 2 vac lines in a continuous loop, bypassing the solenoid. So...it is still hesitant, bucky and doggy under acceleration that is under 2500....I believe that there is a fuel delivery issue at hand. Vac is still 17-18.
08-18-07, 08:38 AM
#90
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you need to ask for a compressor gauge, they won't have specific fuel pressure but everythig is made of metal inside and is made to support 100 psi so a compressor gauge can do the job.
08-19-07, 02:17 PM
#93
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Is there a possiblity that if that were the case, I would smell it, or not? I guess if it is leaking past the o rings, it wouldn't be exposed to the outside for me to smell it.
Trev
Trev
08-24-07, 08:58 PM
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Update: Fuel Pressure
Okay, installed the fuel pressure gauge tonight. Idle is smooth at 1000 rpms and fuel pressure is 31-32psi at idle. If I rev it to say 4k, the highest the FP will get is about 35psi and if i hold the rev, it will drop back down to 31...is that normal? I noticed that when I turned the car off, it is SLOWLY dropping pressure which is a good thing....however...I AM STILL stumped. Still rough on accel and very hesitant like it is pulling timing. NO codes. Is it possible that I switched the injector connectors around on the 2 primaries? Would that cause an issue? Still 16-17 vac as well. I can't find a vac leak...i am stumped....wanted to report the news...
Trev
Trev
08-24-07, 09:33 PM
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Took the car for a drive...1st and 2nd are just bucking under 2k...really missing and cutting out when I accelerate. After I drive in 2nd or 1st for a little bit and come to a stop, I engulf the car with smoke (serious burning exhaust smell and greyish) I came back and turned the car off. fuel was at 35psi and about 5 minutes after I shut it off, it was still there....about 34psi. Again, when I free rev and hold the rev, it will go from about 32psi to about 35/36 and as I hold the rev, the pressure is dropping to about 30, then when I let up off the throttle, it goes to 28, then catches and goes back to 32....
Now, about the secondary injectors. I am definately checking these....I believe there is a way to pulse the injectors from the ECU to free them up....how is this method done? It may be best to just remove them.
Trev
Now, about the secondary injectors. I am definately checking these....I believe there is a way to pulse the injectors from the ECU to free them up....how is this method done? It may be best to just remove them.
Trev
Last edited by supraturbo1987; 08-24-07 at 09:43 PM.
08-24-07, 10:18 PM
#96
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Just removed the UIM so I can have access at the secondaries. What is the recommendation for removal? Remove the caps and pull the injectors out that way, or remove them still in the rail? Also, why would the secondaries be the problem? I am having my issues under 3k under light and medium throttle...wouldn't my issues more than likely be with the primaries instead of the secondaries?
Trev
Trev
08-24-07, 11:14 PM
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just for the heck of it! are the spark plugs installed in the right order? and is there at all any slight crack or cut in the map sensor hose???
mine had a crack in the hose and ran just like your saying!
mine had a crack in the hose and ran just like your saying!
08-24-07, 11:23 PM
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Injector Issue Found!!
OKAY! Maybe some more progress...I removed the secondary injectors just now....I pulled the out of the rail (oddly enough, the one closest to the alternator in the rail smelled like gas MUCH more than the one closest to the firewall) Anyways, I pulled them out...and examined the one that was more moist and smelled more like fuel. There are the 4 horizontal very small screens going around the circumference of the injector, midway. One of those screens is sliced horizontally from end to end as if someone had taken a knife to a screen door! Now, I know this is NOT the way it is supposed to be
Is this where it could be leaking fuel and explain why it is MORE moist and more odorous than the other??? Could this be leaking fuel into the combustion chamber? should I be pulling the primaries and examining them as well? ****, these injectors have like 10 miles on them from RC 
Here is a picture of someone else's injectors...but you can see 1 of the 4 rectangle screens I am referring to:
Is this where it could be leaking fuel and explain why it is MORE moist and more odorous than the other??? Could this be leaking fuel into the combustion chamber? should I be pulling the primaries and examining them as well? ****, these injectors have like 10 miles on them from RC Here is a picture of someone else's injectors...but you can see 1 of the 4 rectangle screens I am referring to:
Last edited by supraturbo1987; 08-24-07 at 11:44 PM.
08-25-07, 08:03 AM
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I think your problems are with the primaries , the secondaries only turn on above 4K rpm (I think) and under boost , your problems early in the rpm range when only the primaries are operating , I would swap them out with another pair and see what happens , also , while in there examine the connectors making sure they are good , they ususally become brittle with the heat.
08-26-07, 12:04 AM
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Marcel, thanks for the tips....I was thinking this exact thing as well. If I go above 3500 and 1 or 2 psi of boost, the car runs nicely....that makes me think there is an issue with fuel delivery on the primaries, and the secondaries are coming on and making up for the loss of fuel from the primaries. What do you think of the slice in the filter screen I referred to?
Trev
Trev