About to throw the fd away
08-26-07, 10:01 AM
#102
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I had the E/L problem on my car, its something you want to fix. I don't exactly remember what the problem it caused was but I remember ignored it on my car and it came back and bit me in the ***.
Anyways just go back and check your wiring, odds are this is where the problem is. Theres 2 wires with the exact same color pattern, I was in a rush and picked the wrong one, and for about a year my car was under a constant false ELD.
I have to give you props for dealing with all these problems and not turning into another rotary hater, trust me its worth it in the end.
Anyways just go back and check your wiring, odds are this is where the problem is. Theres 2 wires with the exact same color pattern, I was in a rush and picked the wrong one, and for about a year my car was under a constant false ELD.
I have to give you props for dealing with all these problems and not turning into another rotary hater, trust me its worth it in the end.
08-26-07, 04:37 PM
#103
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I had the E/L problem on my car, its something you want to fix. I don't exactly remember what the problem it caused was but I remember ignored it on my car and it came back and bit me in the ***.
Anyways just go back and check your wiring, odds are this is where the problem is. Theres 2 wires with the exact same color pattern, I was in a rush and picked the wrong one, and for about a year my car was under a constant false ELD.
I have to give you props for dealing with all these problems and not turning into another rotary hater, trust me its worth it in the end.
Anyways just go back and check your wiring, odds are this is where the problem is. Theres 2 wires with the exact same color pattern, I was in a rush and picked the wrong one, and for about a year my car was under a constant false ELD.
I have to give you props for dealing with all these problems and not turning into another rotary hater, trust me its worth it in the end.
trev
08-27-07, 10:39 AM
#104
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Well, I pulled the primaries last night. Everything physically looked good on them. I noticed on the secondary ports in the manifold that one of the diffusers was cracked around the collar. I found that out when I removed the rubber seal that fits on top of the diffuser. I doubt that is a problem, but I guess it could be. My issues are under 2k though, when the primaries are firing, not the secondaries. All four injectors ohm'd out at about 14.2-14.4 I know spec is around 13.8 I would think those are good values though....any thoughts? I am replacing the o rings and diffusers now. I will keep everyone updated.
Trev
Trev
08-28-07, 03:48 PM
#107
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Should voltage be applied with the injectors still installed in the rails on the motor, or can it be down to the injectors after they are removed?
08-28-07, 04:30 PM
#109
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Is there a way to test if they are clogged or test the spray pattern outside? Also, I am just listening for a click, and that is it? What are your thoughts Kyle on the sliced filter screen?
Trev
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08-28-07, 05:05 PM
#110
Unless you have the proper equipment (like RC Engineering or WictchHunter), you won't be able to really know what a good spray pattern is or if they are flowing the proper CC's. You can test to see that they are flowing fuel but priming the fuel system and then triggering the injectors while the fuel system is pressurized. I wouldn't do it while the fuel rails are installed in the car as you'll risk flooding the car as well as not really being able to see the injectors spray.
08-28-07, 05:44 PM
#111
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Gotcha. Well, I will apply voltage to ensure that I am getting a clicking noise. I figure that with all four being within ohm spec that the injectors themselves are good. How can a guy replace the screens on them?
Trev
Trev
08-28-07, 07:59 PM
#112
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The screen is actually a filter and it is sold separately . You can have the injector "click" but still not get proper fuel flow ! I think you should try a completely different pair and save your self some time.
08-28-07, 10:19 PM
#113
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Trev
08-29-07, 05:59 PM
#114
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injectors are off to be cleaned again. I did realize upon removal of the primary rail, that I completely had forgotten to install the injector insulators that are supposed to be sandwiched between the diffusers and the rail...from what I understand, that shouldn't be causing leaking or my problems, but it was interesting none-the-least.
Trev
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09-05-07, 03:59 PM
#115
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Update!
So, I got the new insulators in for the Primary injectors. As you may recall, I discovered that I forgot to install them the first time around. I got everything buttoned up and started it. Choked a little while cranking, started up. FP at idle is about 31. After the car is at oper temp (O.T.) (and even on the way there) the idle is VERY VERY smooth. Vac at the UIM at O.T. is 17. Anyways, take it for a drive...SAME FRIGGIN problem STILL. Stumbles SO BAD as soon as I let out the clutch to start in 1st...bucks, backfires, you name it. As soon As I can switch to second...same thing...as I let the clutch out...bucking, stumbling, backfire...when I come to a stop...smoke. I can't figure this car out. I really don't think it's a vac leak....I sure can't find one ANYWHERE.
My map/TPS checked out for voltages. I am not concerned about compression b/c of the strong vac and excellent idle. I am still thinking a fuel delivery problem, but not with the injectors. I need to rig the fuel pressure gauge so I can see it when attempting to accelerate....any other ideas?
Trev
My map/TPS checked out for voltages. I am not concerned about compression b/c of the strong vac and excellent idle. I am still thinking a fuel delivery problem, but not with the injectors. I need to rig the fuel pressure gauge so I can see it when attempting to accelerate....any other ideas?
Trev
09-05-07, 04:43 PM
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Just plugged in the ECU. I have no ECU codes any longer with the stock ecu with the exception of the AWS code. I used the PFC. I am looking at the monitor screen now. For some reason I show there is an E/L when there isn't. The TPS is in check...i am not a PFC pro...anyone have a more thorough step by step?Either way, I am getting the same driveability issues with both the stock and PFC ecu's
09-05-07, 08:43 PM
#120
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I am rigging up my fuel pressure gauge so that I can see it on the outside of the w/s while I am driving. Hopefully I can see something dramatic like a sudden drop in pressure when I begin to accelerate....
09-05-07, 09:17 PM
#121
I had experienced something quite similar sounding after a rebuild. It would idle fine but the slightest load it would stumble and just not want to do its thing. Turned out on install I had plugged in the big gray alternator connector but it hadn't clicked into place. It looked like it was in but didn't make its electrical connection. I don't know if it caused a fuel problem or if it caused spark to be weak, but whatever it was the battery by itself with no alternator evidently wasn't enough to run the car well. A good push and it clicked and the problem was completely resolved.
Of course I went on to blow that motor on the dyno with just over 500 miles because of a very crispy wiring harness not firing a front secondary injector. So replace that fried piece of plastic and metal!
Of course I went on to blow that motor on the dyno with just over 500 miles because of a very crispy wiring harness not firing a front secondary injector. So replace that fried piece of plastic and metal!
09-05-07, 09:38 PM
#122
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Have you checked the clutch switch? A bad clutch switch will do Odd Things. Also, if it's showing an electrical load and there isn't one, time to sort that out as well. Fix known problems and go from there.
Dale
Dale
09-06-07, 09:35 AM
#124
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LOL. Okay, here is a development. My clutch has been sticking! I will depress it, and I barely remove my foot and the car starts to drive. With the clutch still depressed, the tick won't cmoe out of gear...it's stuck! I can't let out on the clutch and push back in to try and put the stick in Neutral because the car will start to drive! I have to shut the car off. After the car was off, I removed my foot from the clutch and it stayed to the floor. I had to pull it back up and then it pushed in and out like normal. This doesn't happen all the time, but I have noticed it a few times...I don't believe I have air in the system...have anything to do with the clutch switch Dale?