Come to think of it, I remember that when I installed the PFC, there was always showing an E/L (electrical load) I wonder if the harness could be causing that.

Trev

 

Okay, so i swapped my tps out with a different one. I can't get any readings above .02 and it won't change with WOT. I thought, oh this one must be bad. I put my old one back on (which was reading the correct voltage before removal) and it is doing the same thing! I can't get this damn thing to set correctly...the key is turned on, i have a safety pin in the wire attached to my voltmeter like always...is there some sort of trick i am missing to replacing these? I know I have the two metal tabs in the grooves of the tps..

 

Check the supply voltage - if it's not consistently around 5.0v, I really think you need a new wiring harness.

Dave

 

Okay, I found out that you aren't supposed to install the TPS so that the metal tabs rest in the TPS's 2 grooves, but instead one tab on top of a groove and the other tab under the groove. I am registering good voltage now.

Trev

 

Probably just a coincidence, but I did swap TPS, and the car is running better when it is warm. I still can't figure out why I have the following:

1. Car still dies or wants to die on the first cold start of the morning.

2. Car is still hesitating under 3k in 1 and 2.

3. If I try and boost the car too low (say 4th gear at 2k) as it approaches boost, the car will buck and shake and resist boost.

4. I have no boost controller or pills at this time, so I am not WOT anything.

So....I am still at this jucture. I am pretty sure it is a control issue like a solenoid or something. I did get a backfire once today after I let off of a 5 psi boost test.

Trev

 

I was tooling around the Charge relief valve area. I pulled the vac hose that is connected to it (keep in mind this is about 2 hours or more after shutting the car down) and as soon as I could finally get the hose off, it let out a huge HISSSSSS..like I just released a ton of pressure. Is this normal? Also, the short 90 degree elbow hose that connects to the CRV I found has a nice crack in it....can't be good for turbo control...

 

I'm not too sure about why the car dies, but from what I understand the 3k hesitation is 'normal' everybody, well almost everybody has it. The crack will definately result in a boost leak but at 2000rpm the secondary turbo shouldn't be producing much pressure if any, perhaps that crack messes up the vacuum system somehow and that makes the car buck and shake as it approaches boost I believe the secondary durbo should be either already on line or just about there and again the crack would cause a boost leak. I'm not sure I'm just trying to think 'outloud'.

I would replace that elbow first and see if it solves anything if it has something to do with the vacuum, it could very well cause the car to stall when cold. I assume your tps is within spec. I/ve had so many problems with the damn tps that I'm afraid of the phrase 'throttle position sensor' now.

 

I can't think of a single solenoid which would make the car buck. IMO, you either have an electrical or ignition issue.

Yes, but that would really only cause a problem after about 4200 rpms at WOT when the CRV should be closed (or closing).

 

Is there a reason why there was a ton of pressure built up in the hose going to the CRV that when I pulled it off O heard a ton of air release? Ghost rider, yes, the TPS is within spec and I pull 18-20 vac once at operating temp

Kyle,

I can see it being an electrical issue. I have thought about things like the fuel thermal sensor, water thermosensor, but I am not getting any CEL. I can check the spark the old fashioned way I guess.

Trev

 

A soon as I read what you did, I knew the reason which you finally discovered.
Try being more analytical in the future.

 

Chuck, go easy on him. I've made that mistake too, many years ago

 

nevermind.

 

I've never really need to troubleshoot that system much so I don't know if that's a problem or not. However, I don't believe that has anything to do with your hesitation/bucking.

Here are the things I would start with:

1. Verify you have the CAS connectors on the appropriate sensor
2. Test the Knock Sensor. If there is a problem with it; it may not throw a cell but can be overly sensitive which can retard the car as rpms climb.
3. Lastly, test the coils and the ignition harness

 

I can't believe it....My FD is running smooth and boosting smooth and no more bucking/jerking/chattering under boost!!! The fix? Well, I found someone with a similar problem with turbo chatter on the search and I decided to investigate myself.

I put new coils on during the engine swap. Well, I accidently switched the front Trailing and Rear trailing coil plugs from the ignition harness!!! I had the white front trailing connector on the rear trailing coil, and the blue rear trailing connector on the front trailing coil! I swapped them around and WA LA! The car starts smooth on a cold start, it doesn't hesitate anymore under light throttle, it boosts smoothly, it doesn't chatter anymore, I am registering 19-20 vac reading! I am so excited!!!!

Trev

 

Finally.

 

Didnt I tell you not to mistake that when you were assembling everything...? Nice to hear Trev. Have fun with the car.

 

Glad it's fixed!

I bet you're kicking yourself that something that simple (in retrospect) caused that much grief!

Dave

 

Now go out and have fun with the car

 

hey man grats on fixing your car! i bet you must be glad you decided to stick with it so enjoy the ride and crank up some metal when you go cruise!

 

I am so pumped! I hope it gives hope to others that are having issues! Kyle (Mahjik) thanks for merging the threads!! Now you can sticky it!

Trev

 

i want to see pics of the grey with red interior. sounds like hotness.

 

hahahah dude thats awesome. easy fix!