I agree with staying seq.

I also wanted to point out that 250 bones won't even get you 1/3rd a new wiring harness

 

What's that old saying? Something like pay to play

 

hee hee. I am not too worried about paying to play....I have been doing that a long time before I got the FD...just now, it is escalated A new wiring harness is probably a good thing.

As far as putting it back to stock...I have a gutted cat. I don't have a spare lying around either. I assume you mean put ALL emissions and vac lines back together stock. I really can't see having to put it ALL back...there has got to be somethings that I can leave out....of course that is still just a recipe for more problems.

 

Start by fixing the clutch. Once the clutch is fixed you can see if you still have the same issues. Just take it one problem at a time.

 

Right on. I agree with this. I ust get so frustrated and want this car to run! I will tackle the clutch issue, then move on.

Trev

 

Not to argue non-seq vs. seq, but supraturbo has already removed many of the things for non-seq... he might as well finish the job.

I can't argue with the fact that seq is fun, but when you plan on a single, it doesn't matter. lol

 

I have simplified the sequential, removed the AWS, ACV, bypassed the pressure solenoid. I need to see how close I am to non-seq.

Trev

 

Non seq is easy.. just rip everything out haha. Just do a search on the non-seq conversion. It will require you to remove your turbos though because of some of the modifications that need to be made to them at a machine shop.

 

well, I have the manifold off as I type. I can't find any proof of a vacuum leak anywhere. With the car running and my ear right in the area where the pressure chamber sits, I can here air whistling as it rushes by, but I assume that is just the air going past the throttle plates. This has to be an air/fuel/spark issue. I can't figure it out. With it running at idle today, it was pulling 18mmhg of vac, and smoking dark greyish out the tailpipe consistantly. Also poofing backfires out the back as well...really stumbling on a free rev and also on decel...clueless....

Trev

 

HOLY crap!!! I just swapped out my map sensor with a buddys whose car has been down a year and WA FREAKIN LA! I don't have ANY smoke AT ALL and it revs almost 90% smooth now! It is idling at about 800, so I will bump that to about a grand since I have the A/P removed. I know there is some fine tuning to go yet, but I am going nuts right now!!! Just goes to show that just because voltages check out, doesn't mean it is good!

Trev

 

Wow, cool. I hope that turns out to be the root cause.

Makes sense, but that's one of those items that I wouldn't have caught very easily.

Dave

 

I would suspect it is the root cause for certain. I am so glad now I can get a steady idle and NO SMOKE. that is what makes me happy. My clutch is still spongy, so I will bleed that. I will also change the plugs (or clean them since they only have 10 miles on them) and see how that goes. I want the idle to be around 1000 too since I don't have an airpump, I think that will be the smoothest area for it. I may need to adjust the air bleed screw as well.

Trev

 

Congrats. Always glad to see another 7 running. Just goes to show you, sometimes voltage doesn't check out like you said!

Though you were experiencing classic MAP problems, it just was weird it checked out voltage wise. Congrats again!

 

OUTSTANDING Trev!

 

congratz

 

Now, just to replace the plugs and fine tune the air idle screw and get it all set. Even if there is another issue that I don't know about, with the way that car was acting with the old map, I would never have found it. I am pumped!!

Trev

 

AWESOME news

 

It's amazing how many things on this car can "test out" fine, and actually be malfunctioning during use.

 

You're telling me. It's a crapshoot really. It is always best to go to the simple things first. If they check out...try again. Try a different part! I wonder now that just because a TPS voltage checks out, does that mean it is fully functional?

Trev

 

Nice Trev, im glad to see that everything worked out for yeah.

 

Since swapping out the map sensor fixed the OP's problem, would installing and tuning a Power FC have fixed this problem as well? Or are they completely unrelated?

 

congrats! I know how it feels to be in your situation. I'm glad it was a semi-easy fix. Guess things start to go after some 15 years.

 

No, I tried a PFC with the bad Map and it was still running like crap. The map needs to be properly working before a PFC is installed. The best advice is NOT to install a PFC until you have a car that is healthy and running properly first.

Trev

 

Well sonofabitch

Damn MAP sensor? Arrrhhhh. Well ****, glad you finally found it. I was leaning on fuel being the problem, but who would have though the damn thing would read correct at idle but be screwing up at different pressures!

Good work Trev, and now think of all the things you learned about the car that you wouldn't have if it had worked right from the start. Just trying to be optimistic after all the *** pain.

Congrats again, wish I could have been there to help, England sucks. I miss my car.

Oh, and my wife. LOL

 

Okay, here is the low down:

-700 miles on motor with 100-105psi all 3 faces, both rotors
-18 in/hg vac
-stock airbox, no cat, hks carbon titanium catback, dp, ported WG.
-stock ECU
-injectors clean
-TPS, MAP all check out
-ACV, emissions all removed, simplified sequential (AWS, EGR...still have double throttle though)
-only CEL is for the AWS. I have a resistor in the solenoid plug on the rack, but the actual harness plug for the AWS valve is just dangling...that is why I think the code is there

First:

On a cold start, the first time I start it, it will rev to 2k, then stumble and fall down and die. I restart it and it stays running.

Second:

Free rev and free rev decel are both pretty rough. Take off on the car is very touchy and rough...bucks and jerks. Car seems somewhat smooth between 2-4k on accel in all gears

Third:

I boosted just to about 5 psi, it all the time I was in boost, the car was bucking and jerking like it didn't want to boost. Almost like a limp mode feeling. Like it was retarding or something.

Fourth:

Idle is smooth and at about 1200 rpms (need to lower that a little)

I just can't figure out why the car is so rough and won't accelerate worth a crap. Today is the first time I tried the boost. I have troubleshooted so much, so I am really at a loss.

Trev