99 spec front lights.
02-01-10, 08:14 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: huntington beach california
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
99 spec front lights.
hey guys i have the 99 spec light assembly. and i was wondering if you can get hids for them? how much and where? or what the bulb for it is called. thanks.
02-10-10, 05:30 PM
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: huntington beach california
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hid for 99 spec lights?
hey guys my last thread got closed and no one really gave me an answer. i have 99 spec front bumper lights on a 93 rx7. it has that dim yellow/orange color bulb. i want to get hids for them. does anyone know the size and type of bulb if its even possible? i would really like to know thanks for looking.
02-11-10, 02:14 AM
#3
Do you want to be able to use them as your main headlights? If so...a retrofit of HIDs is possible, but a hell of a job. I also expect performance will be an issue (As they will be very low to the ground to begin with)
If you are just after the cool blue colour & wish to use them as sidelights/driving lights, check out David Hayes's led replacements thread in the interior/exterior section. This has all the info you will need regarding LED replacements for the stock bulbs.
EDIT: Here is a link for you: https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/led-replacement-bulbs-fd3s-777050/page3/
If you are just after the cool blue colour & wish to use them as sidelights/driving lights, check out David Hayes's led replacements thread in the interior/exterior section. This has all the info you will need regarding LED replacements for the stock bulbs.
EDIT: Here is a link for you: https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/led-replacement-bulbs-fd3s-777050/page3/
02-11-10, 08:35 AM
#4
As Ceylon told you the easiest way to get rid of the yellowish color is to swap the stock bulb for a good LED bulb in cool white (8000k hid colorwise) or pure white (5000k colorwise) 30$ more or less will do it.
Now if you are looking for real hid 99 spec and delete the oem pop-ups you'll want to go for a complete hid retrofit in order to achieve a good light beam with proper cutoff. So You'll need : a set of hid projector (i recommend something like S2k or TSX), a set of hid ballasts, 2 hid bulbs. You will also need to make or get a custom fab support for the projector to bolt on tight to the car. Of course you will also need to cut a hole in your 99 spec turn signal to fit the projector. This option will run you around 1000$. Well worth it if you are an hid freak like me. Furthermore, you will most probably be the only one around driving an rx-7 with hid 99 spec turn-signals.
sorry can't find any good pic on my pc atm... but here's a teaser! (Q5 running stock 4300k and FD 6000K)
Now if you are looking for real hid 99 spec and delete the oem pop-ups you'll want to go for a complete hid retrofit in order to achieve a good light beam with proper cutoff. So You'll need : a set of hid projector (i recommend something like S2k or TSX), a set of hid ballasts, 2 hid bulbs. You will also need to make or get a custom fab support for the projector to bolt on tight to the car. Of course you will also need to cut a hole in your 99 spec turn signal to fit the projector. This option will run you around 1000$. Well worth it if you are an hid freak like me. Furthermore, you will most probably be the only one around driving an rx-7 with hid 99 spec turn-signals.
sorry can't find any good pic on my pc atm... but here's a teaser! (Q5 running stock 4300k and FD 6000K)
02-11-10, 12:54 PM
#5
There are few things that anger me on the road, and retrofitted HIDs is possibly the number one annoyance. Don't do it. More light does not equal more visibility, this is even more true if you are running above 4,500k. All these people running 6000k+ aren't seeing any better. In fact whenever one of these guys gets next to me my visibility goes down the ******* next to my h4 hollogen lights even though they are throwing out more light. Most people don't run an OEM housing with a proper cut-off either and end up blinding every poor sucker they get within a 1/2 mile radius of. Even if you do get some OEM housings you should be running an auto leveling system with those lights.
Also with the lights that low in the bumper you are going to be pointing them up more to throw the same distance ruining your cutoff plane if you even spend enough to get an OEM housing so you get a cutoff. By which I mean every little bump you hit your cutoff is going swing up and down causing a strobe effect and it will exaggerate as the poor sucker in front of you tries to get further from you.
Also with the lights that low in the bumper you are going to be pointing them up more to throw the same distance ruining your cutoff plane if you even spend enough to get an OEM housing so you get a cutoff. By which I mean every little bump you hit your cutoff is going swing up and down causing a strobe effect and it will exaggerate as the poor sucker in front of you tries to get further from you.
02-11-10, 01:52 PM
#6
There are few things that anger me on the road, and retrofitted HIDs is possibly the number one annoyance. Don't do it. More light does not equal more visibility, this is even more true if you are running above 4,500k. All these people running 6000k+ aren't seeing any better. In fact whenever one of these guys gets next to me my visibility goes down the ******* next to my h4 hollogen lights even though they are throwing out more light. Most people don't run an OEM housing with a proper cut-off either and end up blinding every poor sucker they get within a 1/2 mile radius of. Even if you do get some OEM housings you should be running an auto leveling system with those lights.
Also with the lights that low in the bumper you are going to be pointing them up more to throw the same distance ruining your cutoff plane if you even spend enough to get an OEM housing so you get a cutoff. By which I mean every little bump you hit your cutoff is going swing up and down causing a strobe effect and it will exaggerate as the poor sucker in front of you tries to get further from you.
Also with the lights that low in the bumper you are going to be pointing them up more to throw the same distance ruining your cutoff plane if you even spend enough to get an OEM housing so you get a cutoff. By which I mean every little bump you hit your cutoff is going swing up and down causing a strobe effect and it will exaggerate as the poor sucker in front of you tries to get further from you.
Finally, you are confusing light output with temp. ratings. The output doesn't increase as kelvin ratings go up and it actually works in the reverse as you lose more light output the higher (and bluer) the lights are. Most OEM units are 4,300 like you mention but some go higher to 5,000. Anything above this will most certainly make the output less not more. As a rule of thumb, you lose about 10% of the light output from 3,800 kelvin to 5,000.
The easy solution here is to pop in some LEDs and call it a day per my thread.
Of course, if you are a HID fanatic like me and want to do it right:
https://www.rx7club.com/potential-advertisers-223/fd-sleepy-eye-hid-conversion-879394/
02-11-10, 02:10 PM
#7
Proper HIDs don't cause the problems you refer to, it's the crappy HID retrofits that do. If the OP were to use Hella HID products specifically designed for headlight use, then he'll be fine with the possible exception of the very low location. He could aim them low enough though to make this happen but this would compromise his light output. Check out www.rallylights.com for SAE certified headlight modules and he could drop in two 50mm HID units and make this work. It will set him back $1,200 though. Also, the auto-leveling you mention is only necessary on ECE rated, or european units, which are illegal over here anyway. SAE units do not require auto-leveling and work just fine without.
Finally, you are confusing light output with temp. ratings. The output doesn't increase as kelvin ratings go up and it actually works in the reverse as you lose more light output the higher (and bluer) the lights are. Most OEM units are 4,300 like you mention but some go higher to 5,000. Anything above this will most certainly make the output less not more. As a rule of thumb, you lose about 10% of the light output from 3,800 kelvin to 5,000.
The easy solution here is to pop in some LEDs and call it a day per my thread.
Of course, if you are a HID fanatic like me and want to do it right:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=879394
Finally, you are confusing light output with temp. ratings. The output doesn't increase as kelvin ratings go up and it actually works in the reverse as you lose more light output the higher (and bluer) the lights are. Most OEM units are 4,300 like you mention but some go higher to 5,000. Anything above this will most certainly make the output less not more. As a rule of thumb, you lose about 10% of the light output from 3,800 kelvin to 5,000.
The easy solution here is to pop in some LEDs and call it a day per my thread.
Of course, if you are a HID fanatic like me and want to do it right:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=879394
Trending Topics
02-11-10, 06:27 PM
#8
I was talking about complete hid retrofit including projector with proper cutoff.... not a stupid ebay hid kit that you fit into an oem reflector housing... of course there's going to be glare all over the place if your going that way and I really think every F**ker running hid bulbs in relfector housings should die, diamond cut or not.
And David is right, 4300k-5000k will give superior lumen rating for driving lights. Personally I like 6000k better cuz they look pure white and give a the whitest beam possible in a projector. To be honest the difference of output between 6000k and 5000k is practically invisible to untrained eyes.
And David is right, 4300k-5000k will give superior lumen rating for driving lights. Personally I like 6000k better cuz they look pure white and give a the whitest beam possible in a projector. To be honest the difference of output between 6000k and 5000k is practically invisible to untrained eyes.
02-11-10, 07:36 PM
#9
I was talking about complete hid retrofit including projector with proper cutoff.... not a stupid ebay hid kit that you fit into an oem reflector housing... of course there's going to be glare all over the place if your going that way and I really think every F**ker running hid bulbs in relfector housings should die, diamond cut or not.
And David is right, 4300k-5000k will give superior lumen rating for driving lights. Personally I like 6000k better cuz they look pure white and give a the whitest beam possible in a projector. To be honest the difference of output between 6000k and 5000k is practically invisible to untrained eyes.
And David is right, 4300k-5000k will give superior lumen rating for driving lights. Personally I like 6000k better cuz they look pure white and give a the whitest beam possible in a projector. To be honest the difference of output between 6000k and 5000k is practically invisible to untrained eyes.
http://www.mobilehid.com/6000k.htm
02-11-10, 11:05 PM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: huntington beach california
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks you guys this is what i was looking for lol. so to clear it up there really isnt a hid bulb that will fight it i have to cut it right?
02-12-10, 05:48 AM
#11
If you want to turn these into headlights, then you need to retrofit a HID projector lens in the turn lamp assembly which means cutting and retrofitting an assembly in there. The smallest assembly you'll find are the Hella 50mm units:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=1796
These will set you back $1,200 though but the light output would be amazing. A much lesser alternative would be the Hella 50mm halogen units:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=1795
A set of these will cost about $250 so it would be much cheaper to do and you'd get much better lighting than the stock OEM units although I would be a bit worried about the low placement of the units on the bumper but I think it would be doable.
Good luck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
