8-6-8 Boost From a Dig?!
#1
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8-6-8 Boost From a Dig?!
Ok here is the deal:
I just recently got my boost gauge installed and tonight was the 1st time I got to run it and check my boost pattern. I am getting all kinds of wierdness. If I accelarate from a roll in 2nd I get an 11-9-11 (something like that it is hard to keep an eye on the road and the gauge I know it goes above 10 then drops below and goes above again) and never spiking above 12. Which is probably due to the fact that I have a DP, hiflow, & catback with no boost controller or anything. That isn't the part that worries me, this is the part that worries me:
When I launch the car from a stop, I get like an 8-6-8 in 1st gear and when I shift to second it is more like an 8-6-6 (again hard to tell you exactly). I did get the 11-9-11 in first when I boosted from a roll (ie dropped the hammer while going about 2K RPM and drove to redline
What am I not understanding here. I know stock pattern should be 10-8-10. What piece of knowledge am I missing? HELP!!
I have a blitz intake that I haven't mounted, because I was waiting to put my gauge in. could that be the problem a choked intake with a freeflowing exhaust?
Please, help me out.
I just recently got my boost gauge installed and tonight was the 1st time I got to run it and check my boost pattern. I am getting all kinds of wierdness. If I accelarate from a roll in 2nd I get an 11-9-11 (something like that it is hard to keep an eye on the road and the gauge I know it goes above 10 then drops below and goes above again) and never spiking above 12. Which is probably due to the fact that I have a DP, hiflow, & catback with no boost controller or anything. That isn't the part that worries me, this is the part that worries me:
When I launch the car from a stop, I get like an 8-6-8 in 1st gear and when I shift to second it is more like an 8-6-6 (again hard to tell you exactly). I did get the 11-9-11 in first when I boosted from a roll (ie dropped the hammer while going about 2K RPM and drove to redline
What am I not understanding here. I know stock pattern should be 10-8-10. What piece of knowledge am I missing? HELP!!
I have a blitz intake that I haven't mounted, because I was waiting to put my gauge in. could that be the problem a choked intake with a freeflowing exhaust?
Please, help me out.
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where would be the likely suspects if I am leaking? if i remember right i get squat @ WOT. I am gonna go double check now. thanks for the input so far. Would it make sense that I have a leak if I am getting the higher pressures from a roll?
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#8
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this is the culprit. a little crazy glue and i am back in business.
only got one funny reading this time out. while pulling out onto the highway. i got 0 psi in 1st & 2nd although the car seemed to be pulling fine. all the other times i got the 10-8-10/11-9-11
thanks guys.
Last edited by JMunilla94RX7; 05-29-04 at 08:24 AM.
#10
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yea i haven't really had a chance or need to get into the turbo system for the 6 months i have owned it. this was the first time even seeing the rats nest under the intake manifold. thanks for those who posted help.
also, a thanks for reading and maintaining your silence, for those of you who could have helped but didn't because this question is beneath you.
also, a thanks for reading and maintaining your silence, for those of you who could have helped but didn't because this question is beneath you.
Last edited by JMunilla94RX7; 05-29-04 at 11:36 AM.
#11
I called it. Glad you found the problem, man! You should inspect all of the check valves though. Chances are that if that one as blown open, the others are probably leaking. Mazda will bend you over to the tune of $35 each for the check valves.
I replaced mine with the super strong ones from McMaster-Carr. I got the idea from damian:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=242306
Instead of getting 1/8" nipples (they are little too small for our 4mm hoses), I got the 3/16" nipples. McMaster PN: 5346K39
The check valves are rated to 1000 psi and have viton seats good for 400 deg F. PN: 7775K61
They are about $10/each when you factor in the cost of the nipples, but that is waaay cheaper than Mazda, and you'll never replace these again.
Sonny
I replaced mine with the super strong ones from McMaster-Carr. I got the idea from damian:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=242306
Instead of getting 1/8" nipples (they are little too small for our 4mm hoses), I got the 3/16" nipples. McMaster PN: 5346K39
The check valves are rated to 1000 psi and have viton seats good for 400 deg F. PN: 7775K61
They are about $10/each when you factor in the cost of the nipples, but that is waaay cheaper than Mazda, and you'll never replace these again.
Sonny
#13
There are 5 valves that you are after:
1) Check valve from Y-pipe to pressure chamber
2) Check valve from double-throttle solenoid to UIM
3) Check valve from charge control (i think it's charge control...might be another one) solenoid to UIM
4) Check valve from Purge Control solenoid to UIM
5) The PCV valve. I removed it and capped it off. Make sure the line coming out of the filler neck that goes to the compressor housing is not capped.
The McMaster check valves can replace #1 through #4.
Sonny
1) Check valve from Y-pipe to pressure chamber
2) Check valve from double-throttle solenoid to UIM
3) Check valve from charge control (i think it's charge control...might be another one) solenoid to UIM
4) Check valve from Purge Control solenoid to UIM
5) The PCV valve. I removed it and capped it off. Make sure the line coming out of the filler neck that goes to the compressor housing is not capped.
The McMaster check valves can replace #1 through #4.
Sonny
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