1993 Rx7 Clutch not disengaging
10-12-20, 05:01 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
1993 Rx7 Clutch not disengaging
Hey Everyone!
I just want to start off by saying I am brand new to all this stuff and my only previous experience working on cars was your basic oil change and other occasional easy maintenance.
This doesn't relate to my current issue but the car currently can't run because the radiator is pulled while I wait for a new Koyo to throw in.
The Issue:
Finally, the issue at hand. I recently bought a 1993 Rx7 from a guy down the street. It last ran in 2009 and after replacing the gas, coolant, and oil I decided to see if the car would run. Turns out it fired right up and ran way stronger than I expected. I let it run for a bit then decided I would take it for a drive around my block before it would get dismantlement and not driven for another few months. It ran really well but slowly got harder and harder to get the car to change gears while it was running. When the short < 5 min drive was over I was backing the car into my garage where it suddenly died when I had the clutch fully pressed. I was able to eventually get the car into the garage by starting it while in reverse and gave it a little gas but again, when I pressed the breaks to stop the car and had the clutch fully pressed it died again.
I did some research on this issue and found that it could either be the Master/Slave cylinder, kink in the hose, or a few other things. Any ideas on what to check to narrow down my search?
Things I've tried:
I popped off the transmission inspection plate to see if the clutch was disengaging or not but quickly came to realize I have no idea what that is supposed to look like. I just know I see very little movement (maybe 2mm worth)
I tried bleeding the clutch in case there was air in the lines but there wasn't even after being very thorough. I also did not notice any difference in the feel of the clutch or amount of movement I saw in the transmission
Moral of the story is before I buy new or rebuild my master and slave cylinder I just want to be sure there is nothing I'm missing that might be glaringly obvious to you experts out there.
Thanks a bunch!!!!
I just want to start off by saying I am brand new to all this stuff and my only previous experience working on cars was your basic oil change and other occasional easy maintenance.
This doesn't relate to my current issue but the car currently can't run because the radiator is pulled while I wait for a new Koyo to throw in.
The Issue:
Finally, the issue at hand. I recently bought a 1993 Rx7 from a guy down the street. It last ran in 2009 and after replacing the gas, coolant, and oil I decided to see if the car would run. Turns out it fired right up and ran way stronger than I expected. I let it run for a bit then decided I would take it for a drive around my block before it would get dismantlement and not driven for another few months. It ran really well but slowly got harder and harder to get the car to change gears while it was running. When the short < 5 min drive was over I was backing the car into my garage where it suddenly died when I had the clutch fully pressed. I was able to eventually get the car into the garage by starting it while in reverse and gave it a little gas but again, when I pressed the breaks to stop the car and had the clutch fully pressed it died again.
I did some research on this issue and found that it could either be the Master/Slave cylinder, kink in the hose, or a few other things. Any ideas on what to check to narrow down my search?
Things I've tried:
I popped off the transmission inspection plate to see if the clutch was disengaging or not but quickly came to realize I have no idea what that is supposed to look like. I just know I see very little movement (maybe 2mm worth)
I tried bleeding the clutch in case there was air in the lines but there wasn't even after being very thorough. I also did not notice any difference in the feel of the clutch or amount of movement I saw in the transmission
Moral of the story is before I buy new or rebuild my master and slave cylinder I just want to be sure there is nothing I'm missing that might be glaringly obvious to you experts out there.
Thanks a bunch!!!!
10-13-20, 06:39 AM
#2
Newly Rebuilt
Sadly it's common for the clutch master and slave to go bad after sitting for a long time.
When you bled from the clutch slave, was the fluid coming out under a good amount of pressure, or was it moving back and forward in the bleeder hose?
Another tell tale sign is when pumping the clutch, check if the fluid is sloshing around in the rear resevoir chamber like it's being pushed back into it, this usually means the master is no good and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
When you bled from the clutch slave, was the fluid coming out under a good amount of pressure, or was it moving back and forward in the bleeder hose?
Another tell tale sign is when pumping the clutch, check if the fluid is sloshing around in the rear resevoir chamber like it's being pushed back into it, this usually means the master is no good and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
10-13-20, 07:32 AM
#3
I would first suspect clutch master or slave. Clutch fork is known to fail occasionally... but not nearly as likely.
If you haven’t yet, download a copy of the Factory Service Manual. It has trouble-shooting Sections that will help.
If you haven’t yet, download a copy of the Factory Service Manual. It has trouble-shooting Sections that will help.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 10-13-20 at 07:35 AM.
10-13-20, 08:49 AM
#5
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Typically when you have a clutch hydraulic problem the pedal will flop to the floor and not want to come back up. If that's the case that's where you need to look. If the clutch pedal has resistance and comes up by itself but the clutch isn't disengaging that is where it could get interesting.
If it is clutch hydraulics, you want to replace everything - master, slave, and hose. Get a stainless braided hose to replace the stock rubber hose, Banzai Racing makes them and some other vendors as well. They will last forever. If one part of the system is going out the others aren't far behind.
Dale
If it is clutch hydraulics, you want to replace everything - master, slave, and hose. Get a stainless braided hose to replace the stock rubber hose, Banzai Racing makes them and some other vendors as well. They will last forever. If one part of the system is going out the others aren't far behind.
Dale
10-13-20, 01:19 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sadly it's common for the clutch master and slave to go bad after sitting for a long time.
When you bled from the clutch slave, was the fluid coming out under a good amount of pressure, or was it moving back and forward in the bleeder hose?
Another tell tale sign is when pumping the clutch, check if the fluid is sloshing around in the rear resevoir chamber like it's being pushed back into it, this usually means the master is no good and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
When you bled from the clutch slave, was the fluid coming out under a good amount of pressure, or was it moving back and forward in the bleeder hose?
Another tell tale sign is when pumping the clutch, check if the fluid is sloshing around in the rear resevoir chamber like it's being pushed back into it, this usually means the master is no good and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
As for when I was bled the clutch slave the fluid was coming out in a steady flow and and from what i could tell there was no moving back and forth in the hose.
Thanks for the tips!
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10-13-20, 01:21 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks!
10-13-20, 01:24 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you!
10-13-20, 01:28 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Typically when you have a clutch hydraulic problem the pedal will flop to the floor and not want to come back up. If that's the case that's where you need to look. If the clutch pedal has resistance and comes up by itself but the clutch isn't disengaging that is where it could get interesting.
If it is clutch hydraulics, you want to replace everything - master, slave, and hose. Get a stainless braided hose to replace the stock rubber hose, Banzai Racing makes them and some other vendors as well. They will last forever. If one part of the system is going out the others aren't far behind.
Dale
If it is clutch hydraulics, you want to replace everything - master, slave, and hose. Get a stainless braided hose to replace the stock rubber hose, Banzai Racing makes them and some other vendors as well. They will last forever. If one part of the system is going out the others aren't far behind.
Dale
Thanks so much for shooting me some ideas!
10-13-20, 03:13 PM
#11
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
If the pedal pops back up but it isn't working you could have a broken clutch fork. May want to get an assistant and a good flashlight and look through the inspection hole at the bottom of the trans bell housing. Or could be a clutch disc that has delaminated.
Regardless it's starting to sound like you're going to need to drop the transmission.
Dale
Regardless it's starting to sound like you're going to need to drop the transmission.
Dale
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Riley (Complete Novice) (10-14-20)
10-26-20, 03:32 PM
#13
OP, i’m going through this exact situation on my brand new clutch kit. already replaced my clutch slave and master cylinders too with oem ones of course. Still no luck. Gonna try bleeding again but i still don’t think it will solve this issue . Through the inspection plate i see great travel of the pressure plate away from the flywheel. release bearing looks good, fork looks good...only last thing that it could be is my pilot bearing went bad somehow. This all happened right after a street tune too. Sucked *** cause i was about to enjoy driving it and nada. So id recommend doing the same as i. Dropping the trans and have new stuff to swap in while its out (in my case just a fork, release bearing, and pilot since clutch kit is new) . And be sure to use a rotary specific pilot bearing removal tool. A worthy worthy investment that you will hardly use but comes through and makes your life easier during this repair. Keep us updated
10-27-20, 12:02 AM
#14
I used a power bleeder to pressurize the fluid reservoir, also have a speed bleeder valve on the slave. I still did the bleeding procedure as open bleeder, press and hold clutch down, close bleeder, pull clutch up, rinse and repeat, repeat repeat.
I tested it after a few times and it started getting better. Eventually it started to fully disengage and work normally but I went through 2 qts of fluid between the brakes and the clutch bleeding.
I tested it after a few times and it started getting better. Eventually it started to fully disengage and work normally but I went through 2 qts of fluid between the brakes and the clutch bleeding.
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arkady151
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