So I think today the motor finally went. I was driving and it over heated, pulled over. And now the car doesn’t start. I let it cool off and added a ton of water but still no luck.
An rx7 friend said if I let it cool over night it should start for sure? Or cool long enough?
but the coolant temp already says 53 c.. and still won’t start..

It’s been sitting for a few hours and still no start. Tried to jump start, no click at all.

I tried to turn the pulleys and belt with my hand and it seems like it’s turning.. so not seized? Anyway waiting for tow now.. and will take plugs out later to see.. and have someone do a compression test...

 

We PM'd about this, for the others reading, it sounds like a starter issue. First thing to check is wiring to the starter and the clutch switch (and the little rubber pad on the clutch switch). Could be the starter itself. The starting system doesn't care if the engine is bad, if it can be spun over, the starter will do the job.

Dale

 

1. STOP DRIVING THE CAR

You're damaging very valuable parts every time you overheat the rotary

2. SELL YOUR CAR

You're out of your element and entering a world of pain

3. PROFIT

Cut your losses and run, I hear Corvettes are reliable and easily fixed by your local mechanic

 

 

Thanks dale, you were on the money. best and most helpful member hands down. 👍👊
Checked all the fuses (was ok) and then the clutch starter switch. And sure enough that plastic piece or grommet was gone. What a coincidence to happen at the same time I pulled over.

 

When you open the new crate engines, what seals do you find neccessary to replace when reassembling?
Oil pan and maybe the front cover is given, but how about water seals, dowel O-rings etc?

 

I buy all the parts and get a local shop by me to rebuild the motor for 1200 1600 if I want it bridged and this guy Been building rotary’s in Puerto Rico since he was 16. He’s in his late 40s now . Idk why shops charge so much. Al he does is rebuild the motor not install it etc but still 7k for a rebuild is insane .

 

If you buy all the parts and only get charged $1200. The guy doing is is only charging you like $50 per hour. It takes time to tear down the engine, clean everything properly, check specs, measure and grind seals to the correct clearance, and then assemble.

Most decent shops have labor rates of over $120 per hour because there is overhead associated with running a proper business.

 

Water seals if you carefully remove them can be re-used.

Oil pan is just RTV, no gasket, so you have to clean all the old RTV off and re-seal.

I don't know if they use the paper or metal front cover gasket. It's worth upgrading to the metal gasket, Atkins Rotary sells them for about $40.

Front and rear main seals will be fine.

Dowel pin O-rings should be fine and re-usable.

That's just a general overview but you should inspect each seal and be prepared to order a replacement if something doesn't look right. Also take your time and use something like a thin putty knife to remove the oil pan, if you use a big screwdriver or something like that you will bend the pan and it will never seal properly.

Dale

 

Coolant seals, dowel pin orings, rear stationary gear o-ring, eshaft bolt oring, oil pickup gastet, etc. Basically anything that gets compressed during assembly.

 

Update?