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0 Mile Mazda new engine. Seems like a bad regulator. Monitoring pressure at the oil pedestal. Over 3000rpm it's enough oil pressure to push through the turbo seals and chooch oil smoke out the exhaust. I did an easy 160 mile first break in trip to a local car meet today to verify the issue, Idle is a solid 45 PSI, high way cruising 70mph is 90-100psi, any more load/throttle an it's pushing 120psi+ and oil smoke. Parked the car till I can figure this out. Given the smoke issue I feel the sensor is accurate. Could it be a brand new bad OEM regulator? Running a wix oil filter, thermopellet, and 20w50 VR1 non-synthetic.It was pretty cold out today for florida, and my oil temps were in the 150-160 range while moving, 175 at idle measured at the oil pedestal. The oil thermostat to the oil coolers doesn't fully open until 180.
As a second thought, the pressure is normal and the turbo's are smoked?
I have an oil pressure sensor on my car, pressure climbs until about 3500-4000 RPM and then flatlines around 100 PSI. I don't think I've seen above 110psi even when cold. This screenshot shows pressure vs RPM, the blue dots are when the oil is cold and red dots are when the oil is warm. This is 20w50 oil on a stock engine, I don't know the exact mileage but I've put about 20k miles on it. It was a used JDM pullout engine from a 1996-1998 car based on the engine harness and turbos that came with it, so I'm guessing at least 50k miles total.
The part # for new Mazda crate engines is the '99+ high power spec.
That is perfectly normal oil pressure for this engine.
Besides the higher oil pressure they factory side cut the rotors for high rpm reliability. I sent mine to 9,000rpm regularly and no rotor contact (or other abnormal wear) on tear down.
I was surprised to find the same oil pressure on my Mazda crate engine.
I had very minor turbo oil smoking from my 60k stock turbos.
The part # for new Mazda crate engines is the '99+ high power spec.
That is perfectly normal oil pressure for this engine.
Besides the higher oil pressure they factory side cut the rotors for high rpm reliability. I sent mine to 9,000rpm regularly and no rotor contact (or other abnormal wear) on tear down.
I was surprised to find the same oil pressure on my Mazda crate engine.
I had very minor turbo oil smoking from my 60k stock turbos.
Thank you for the information, this is extremely helpful as I had never seen that high of oil pressure before. This focuses my attention to the turbos may have been hurt when the last engine went.
Was going to say that with 20W50 (Valvoline VR1 too ) it was matching up with the high pressure racing regulator numbers I had seen. I never knew that was used from the factory though. Interesting.
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I doubt the '99 spec 280hp turbos have an oil restrictor.
Stock low power (like we got in US) 13B-REW oil pressure is 105-115psi already. As seen in scotty305 post.
Its not that different. It was ~20psi max pressure difference for me between 60,000 mile stock engine snd new crate engine (on stock gauge).
I used a precision mechanical gauge to check my FC with MFR adjustable oil pressure regulator and I had it over 120psi- but it was slower to build pressure with my max sized bearings, oil porting and MFR rotor cooling jets.
I was impressed how "jumpy" the new Mazda crate oil pressure was with rpm increase new.
After ~20,000 miles of racing it was a little lazier. Bearing clearances? Oil pump wear? Dirty sensor connector? All the above? IDK
does that mean the 99spec turbo feed line has a restrictor in it to control oil pressure to the turbo?
doubtful. the oil line on the turbos is the same part number, N3A1-14-280A
the pipe on the engine is a different part number, N3F1-14-270A, but they also changed the whole vacuum rack, so its more likely that.
Oh boy. I'm gonna get some hate for this one... In before the "that's not necessary" comments with - this fixed my smoking turbos under boost with really high oem oil pressure. Put about 20 miles on the car this afternoon and the issue seems to be gone.
I installed the Turbosmart OPR using a series of tubes. The OPR regulates turbo feed pressure to 40PSI with a returnless compact design. I used mostly vibrant fittings I had laying around from various builds. I did have to order a few things from summit - Most important is this fitting:
This fitting allows you to convert the OEM turbo oil feed line to AN Vibrant does not make a Female m14 to -4 adapter so you have to conver to -6 then use a -6 to -4 adapter to get to the OPR.
I used Teflon tape made for gas and oil (grey) and a copper crush washer. There's no guarantee this won't leak, however it's holding just fine on my car. That fitting is designed to be a compression fitting on the OEM feed line from the block.
The rest is two -6an 45 degree adapters, a -6 to -4 adapter, a female/female -4 union, then a -4an 90 to -4 hose and this fitting at the block:
So - just following up this and how it was a bandaid around a problem with the twins I had - the rear/secondary turbo was definitely having some issues. My last engine chipped a seal and killed the secondary turbo when it went through. This did reduce smoking, but normally twins should not require an OPR - just food for thought for anyone reading through this thread. It's a bandaid.
03-18-23, 10:39 PM
) it was matching up with the high pressure racing regulator numbers I had seen. I never knew that was used from the factory though. Interesting.
