BoostedTimmy

I keep running into this very minor annoyance and I just can't figure it out, I know its a sign I need to replace something though

If I let my car sit for a few days, when I go to start it it fires right up, but it sounds like its only firing on rotor (Like a cammed v8 or something...). It will sit there and run like that until I blip the throttle, than it runs fine and the problem wont surface again until the car sits for a few days.

I'm thinking its either fouled plugs or a leaky injector? Anyone ever had this happen before?

Rx_Sam

i got the same problem sometimes
i changes plugs but didn't solved the problem.

salamander

I had a small coolant leak due to worn o-rings that caused a similar problem. It gradually got worse over a number of months.

Rx_Sam

just back from a little driving gues what.... coolant leaking...

BoostedTimmy

well I hope thats not the problem I've only got ~20k on my engine, Rx_Sam where did you find coolant?

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

I have had a problem like that since i got the car except when the car sits for a couple of days (only on cold weather like days), all my idiot lights come on til i rev it to approx 2k, then all the idiot lights go out and the car will idle fine.

I am guessing its something electrical or something wrong with the ecu. It doesnt affect driving at all as i dont drive the car as soon as i start it anyway, i always let it warm up til i see about 105-110F on the gauge.

gbomb91

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem and was told it was a bad coolant seal allowing colant into the rotor. needs a rebuild. The sound you are describing is exactly what I heard. I also saw coolant bubbling up through the top of the bottle through the little black rubber stopper.

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

More than likely early coolant seal failure. Acts up more during cooler or cold weather than the warmth of the summer.

mfagundes

Had the same problem on my rx years ago, it is a coolant leak inside the motor. As time goes on, you will start to have more and more trouble getting it to idle correctly and eventually you'll start to get white smoke out the back. You should have the motor tested for a bad seal I'm sorry to say but most-likely you'll need a rebuild.

Good luck

salamander

A common problem is to have the piece of metal between the o-ring and the collant passage fail. It is heat induced. When that happens the rubber seal loses support and combustion gases escape into the coolant passage. Here is a picture of the end housing. You can that sometimes there is not a lot of metal between the 0-ring and the coolant passages.

http://www.rotaryengine.com/images/p...s/IMG_5692.JPG

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

One quick question, does it have a stock ECU or somthing like a Power FC

I when i rebuilt my motor i had the same problem, but it was becuase of the enrichment setting, pulled that enrichment out and it was fine.

sevensix

iTrader: (1)

i'd say small coolant leak. im rebuilding from it now.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

well, I have had an issue like this for a year and a half so far

Start the car in morning and it runs weird..like 1 rotor....

It used to be really bad and smoke like hell RICH SMELL...changed out injectors and it cleared up a ton but it still runs really rough until 140F

A month ago i decided to crank the car and pull fuel from the idle block by about 10%...ran PERFECT then died at 140F

So what is happening to me is the car is dumping way to much fuel below 140F or its retarding the timing...I dont think its coolant related so check out the fuel

BoostedTimmy

Well I'll see if I can't get it pressure tested later this week, but in the meantime I'd like to see if I can find anything else pointing to seal failure.

For the champaign bubble test is it just a matter of watching the filler neck for the small champaign like bubbles to come up?

Should I be losing coolant over time? I can't smell any coolant at the start up and my exhaust is straight through.

Thanks for all the advice.

Rx_Sam

beneath the overflow thank on the left side.... so not under the ast and not under
the waterpump.
and i also got a boost problem,only getting 0.4 bar in stead of 0.9

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

Luckily that seems to be more of a FC problem. Odds are pretty good that a plate didnt fail but even still a broken o-ring is most likely the problem

BoostedTimmy

Well I got the pressure tester from autozone today, just waiting for it to cool down so I can test the system. If it fails this test you can probably look foward to all of my aftermarket parts going on sale later this week

On a side not, the caps look like the original ones that came with the car so I suppose I should replace them, though I havent seen temps above 84C since I installed the KOYO.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

bubble test is never a promise in my opinion...i freaked out last week cuz i looked in my filler neck and saw bubbles, small ones....but when i flushed the coolant and cranked the car cold the other day no bubbles...it only does it when warm so obviously its air working its way out

BoostedTimmy

Well the pressure tester Autozone loaned me didn't fit the FD filler neck, but I was able to test the AST cap. It was a 16lb cap and was venting at 9 psi! So I got a new cap 13lbs apparently thats whats supposed to be on the car.

If it really is a coolant seal what could have caused it to let go? Car has never overheated? My mods are in my sig...

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

There are lots of reasons it could let go. Overheating is one reason, but if that is out then local boiling due to low PSI pressure cap or improper coolant mixture. On top of the thermal possibilities there are also mechanical possibilities such as rebuild quality or attention to detail and how thoroughly the plates and o-ring grooves were cleaned.

salamander

You said you have 20K on the motor. I assume that is a rebuild......

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

So, did the new cap fix the problem? BTW, no problem running a 16 lb cap.

linenoise

iTrader: (1)

I have this exact same problem. Car idles rough when started cold, some white smoke from the exhaust. This clears up when the engine warms up. 42k on original engine. A reputable rotary mechanic told me that coolant seal failure doesn't necessarily correlate with miles, but with time. The older they are, the more likely they will fail.

BoostedTimmy

No telling yet, its only when the car sits for over a week, but I doubt the cap fixed it since it probably is a seal failure. Since it has to be an extremely minor leak are there any options that can slow its failure? I really don't want to put copperseal in my car....

Anyways my car got hit and run in the parking lot yesterday so I'm fixing rthat first. I absolutely HATE people who can't drive

Rx_Sam

i now my problem.... i got good comression on each chamber.
but on 100 km is need to fill up the coolant !!!! so got a water seal that's broken