weetbix13

Right, well i've just made up my boost controllers for the wastegate and precontrol and put them on.

left the restrictors in the lines at the actuators and hosed these in place of the solenoids. dialled them in and got a perfect 10psi on the first try... but no transition nor drop off all the way to 6,000rpm when i backed off.

what could cause the loss of transition? normally i would say that the secondary turbo not coming on line could be a cause, but the fact it held 10psi till 6,000rpm suggests that something was making up that boost.

any thoughts on my missing transition? could it be related to the restrictor pills in the lines? didn't seem to affect the primary nor adjustability of the boost levels.

and yes, you read right... 2 boost controllers for $5 or $3 if you remove the cost of extra hosing.

rexhvn

Do you have any pictures of these boost controllers?

weetbix13

not yet... could postthem up tomorrow maybe.
all you need to do is go to the hardware store and go to the hose and garden fitting isle. grab 2x plastic 'spray - adjustable micro 360 degree' fittings with a small barb or threaded connection - the real use or these is to create an adjustable sprinkler in your back yard, but what the hell right?

unplug the vacuum lines from the solenoids and t-junction the adjustable spray nozzles in... put it all back together and leave the spray nozzles hoses sticking out above the vacuum chamber for placement. these nozzles screw left and right for adjustable pressure bleeding... magic!

i know this sounds far too cheap and stupid to work, but i couldn't find the parts needed for ball and spring and figured i'd make something up myself... i had no idea it would hold boost pressure PERFECTLY accross the rev range with no spike or dropoff yet!

will post pics tomorrow.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I used a needle valve on the wastegate line to lower my boost to 12 psi. I wound up with a boost pattern of 12-8-12. It seemed to be too much of a drop off at transition, so I installed a needle valve on the prespool line. After about 6 weeks of trying to adjust it, I gave up. Proper adjustment seemed to be impossible. Changing one valve would effect the other, and it would never work right. I put the original prespool line back. After a while, I decided to replace the prespool pill with the wastegate pill. Theoretically, a larger pill would increase psi at transition. It worked. My transition was improved to 9 psi. Next time I have things apart, I will get a pill with a slightly larger opening. I would like to see transition at 10-11 psi. I believe that the extra length of the hose in the prespool line was the cause of the problem with the needle valve.

weetbix13

ok, so, theoretically... if i have absolutely no transition in a non-sequential setup... maybe it is just perfect!? seriously, i feel no transition and there is no boost drop off.

i really find it hard to beleive that my $2 boost control found the holy grail of boost patterns, hence my cry for help!

is it possible that i'm only running boost on one turbo or something? the whole rats nest is in and plugged up right so there should be transition... but there isn't that i can tell at all!

Dezigns

If you're non-sequential, you shouldn't have a transition since both turbos are always spooling - but I'm guessing you just got your terms mixed up

weetbix13

excellent point, my bad!
yeah, i am sequential with no transition or drop-off

weetbix13

ok, have been asked to post this up... this part is as shown at $1.35 on http://www.dripirrigation.com/drip_i...roducts_id=412

assuming you know the basics of installation of boost control on an FD... just 't' this into the line coming to-and-from the solenoids on your upper intake manifold. run a hose up to the 'top side' of the engine, and adjust the valve as needed.

my results have been good, even without removing the restrictors, although i would imagine that removing those would increase response even further (?)... will post an installed pic later this evening (NZ).

DaveW

If i understand your installation correctly, you are using your adjuster as a substitute for the stock solenoid valves, and balancing the MBC orifice against the pill orifice.

If this is the case:
1. removing the pill(s) will reduce your boost to the WG spring-controlled boost level of 7 psi.
2. you may have lag issues, due to the long tubing lengths between the PC/WG and the controllers
3. weather changes will affect the boost and your setup may not be able to compensate.

The most reliable control is achieved by using ball/spring MBC's or an electronic BC in place of the pills (can be done with one or two controllers), with the lines from the PC and WG actuators plugged..

Dezigns

Not sure about your setup, but I had a needle valve (brass - rated for 120psi and only $4 from Hose Connections) in place of the pill going to the wg actuator (non-sequential). That way it worked like an adjustable pill.. could open or close as much as I pleased.

however....
this is unfortunate but true... and exactly how I blew my motor.
I dicked around with the valve on a hot day (34 deg) everything was fine for a week running 10psi without any deviation... then there was a cold snap (12 deg) one evening... By the time I realised I was detonating, it was all over....

weetbix13

amen, this is a temporary solution to my boost issue and is to be replaced with ball and spring soon. basically i am fresh off a rebuild and run in km's and wasn't generating enough boost to instigate the secondary turbo... the adjustable is only to bring it to 9psi (for safety) while i continue to troubleshoot the engine.

i blew a hose off the solenoids (which were broken anyway) and the car hit 15psi but held up strong with RA seals... rather than doing that death run again i've adjusted it to 9psi.

pic attached of the valves.