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The lines were long enough in my kit I could route behind the frame, just in front of the Intercooler. But then I saw pics and showed it fed through the rebar, so I did that instead. I am wishing I had left it behind. I think the reason for using the rebar is so the lines aren't hanging of the mounting points and can rest on the rebar. If you do route behind the frame, then you should fab some holders to support the line, so there isn't as much stress on the mounting points to the cooler.
Thanks -- very good to know! If I end up installing my kit the way it was intended (i.e. I don't go the thermostat-less route that saves taking off the PS pump and AC compressor), then I'll aim to thread it through the engine bay.
Still waiting to see if anyone has the thread size/pitch of the fat bolt between the hard line and the short hose section? (when mounted, this connection sits right around where the Sakebomb kit's thermostat sits.)
Saw the greddy no-thermostat dual oil cooler kit installed on another car in the shop:
Anyone know the thread pitch of those gold (AN?) bolts, and whether or not the ex-thermostat hoses from my Sakebomb kit will bolt up? @SakeBomb Garage Any idea?
The hoses are right around the same location with/without the thermostat, and the hose design should be the same after the thermo (i.e. two coolers in series.)
Thanks in advance!!
Would love to hear your experience/input!
In case anyone is looking for this info later, I can confirm that the Sakebomb kit does NOT have any bolts/banjos that will fit the OEM line joints that I showed in the earlier photo/post.
The oem connectors are too small for the AN banjo connections that the Sakebomb kit comes with.
Originally Posted by adey
I was just looking at a couple of RX7s in the garage today.
I noticed that they mostly use the Greddy double cooler kit (even a single cooler car) -- which doesn't require removal of the ac compressor and PS pump!
Apparently the bolt in front of his left pocket (on the lower section between the short kinked hard line and short hose) can be undone:
Anyone know what the size/thread pitch of that big bolt is?
And there is a similar bolt on the feed, a few inches after the banjo bolt comes out of the block.
to use a thermostat, can't you just place it in almost the same place, just taking off those two big bolts? (Provided the fittings are the same, of course.)
Here in Hong Kong, given winters only ever go down to about 10*C (about 50*F) the shop tech tells me that most people just don't run a thermostat. The car I saw just had greddy lines coming off these two sections, using existing hard- and soft lines, and running to the coolers in series between them.
any thoughts/comments? That would be so much easier than taking everything apart...!!!
Do the large 25 row coolers fit with the OEM side plastic under tays?
On a '99+ FD, it will not.
It was not mentioned in the Sakebomb brochure or website, but even with the 19 row you need to cut up your under tray plastics. I was pretty bummed that they didn't mention this. Not difficult to do if you have a Dremel or grinder, but time consuming and not truly plug n play.
For posterity, here are photos of how I cut my 99's side under trays to clear the coolers. Eventually I had to cut off the outer front tab on the left side.
We are installing the sake bomb 93 street kit on a car that will have a 99spec bumper.
We routed the last hose through the "channel" in the bumper rebar, but there is no way its going to be able to connect to the inner ports of the cooler with out some more fittings or something else I have not figured out. Looking for any pointers that may help.
We are installing the sake bomb 93 street kit on a car that will have a 99spec bumper.
We routed the last hose through the "channel" in the bumper rebar, but there is no way its going to be able to connect to the inner ports of the cooler with out some more fittings or something else I have not figured out. Looking for any pointers that may help.
im installing the 25row track kit on my 93 with the 99+ bumper and rebar also.
I am having the same issue, the “cross tube” from cooler to cooler will not connect when routed through the channel, it wants to kink the line, as it’s not on the same plane and the fitting and it’s to sharp of a bend for the hose so close the the fittings. I also don’t like the routing of the lines from the thermostat to the outer fitting on the oil coolers. They are to taught/tight and to close/touching the fender liner for my liking. Also the 90* hose end coming out of the thermostat going to the passenger side of the car fits the rad fan unless it is aiming almost straight up. And that’s with the thermostat pushed up as I can into the AC line that it sits under. The Ac line is closer to the AC pulley that’s if like as well.
I called yesterday ( 3/10/2022) and talked to two of the guys at the shop less about the little issues as it is Super tight everywhere and I think the did a good job given the space restraints.
my solution(s)
run the lines from the thermostat to the Inner oil cooler fittings, this keeps the close to the frame, away from the fender liner, and just the right amount of slack in the line, my request to them was to use my kits 90* hose ends but use a longer hose to reach to the outer oil cooler connections. I offered to pay and after a few questions they basically said no one else has these issues, you just need to cut/trim the rebar and it fits. And did not want to help at all, even with me paying and then using my hose ends again. I just wanted all hoses to be cohesive…
WELL I’m not cutting out the only metal part of the bumper rebar for a line to pass through, the re bar cost more than the oil cooler kit these days and I’m NOT cutting into my car. The instructions do Not mention this at all. This is what I’m most disappointed about
So I am going to make my own line, no problem i have build my own AN many times, but it’s another additional cost. and I am going to move the thermostat using a 90* female to female adapter instead of the 90* to straight the send with the kit that comes off the front cover. This Should move to thermostat 1/4” closer to the engine giving the needed clearance at the fan shroud for the 90’s going to the coolers.
I also hacked up the brackets to move the coolers 1/2” closer to the frame rails, the made much better clearance to the inside of the bumper, and it also make it look better from the front. Also added matching SS hardware, rubber cushioning washers to absorb vibrations.
Our problem was we order the 93 kit, it does not work with the 99 spec bumper. When we got the 99 spec kit ie; banjo bolts on the inner oil cooler port, it fit really well.
