SakeBomb Garage dual oil cooler kit instructions
#1
SakeBomb Garage dual oil cooler kit instructions
The instructions are finally done! You can view them -> HERE
This thread was created for any questions regarding the install of our kits. This is the first draft of our instructions so some revisions may be necessary If you have any product questions, please refer to our GB thread in the FDNewbie forum.
Good luck with the installations everyone. Any bashing should be directed at RotorMotor for taking so long to get the instructions finalized Feel free to leave any questions, comments or install pics in this thread!
-Dan
This thread was created for any questions regarding the install of our kits. This is the first draft of our instructions so some revisions may be necessary If you have any product questions, please refer to our GB thread in the FDNewbie forum.
Good luck with the installations everyone. Any bashing should be directed at RotorMotor for taking so long to get the instructions finalized Feel free to leave any questions, comments or install pics in this thread!
-Dan
#3
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hey guys... ive been getting some PM's with install questions. Honestly I dont mind answering them personally, but I bet others will have the same questions and benefit from from your question. I know it's an involved process, but Dan and I are here to guide you through it.
and to answer one PM publicly, yes we are working on a 20b mounting option which hopefully will be done this week. Since the 20b install is a one off setup, we have to charge a little extra for shop time to build the custom brackets/lines.
-Heath
and to answer one PM publicly, yes we are working on a 20b mounting option which hopefully will be done this week. Since the 20b install is a one off setup, we have to charge a little extra for shop time to build the custom brackets/lines.
-Heath
#5
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I have a bad oil leak here like when i had been driving around for about an hour came home and stopped it started pouring out about 3 1/2 4 quarts. I need help with this how do i fix it? What do i need and long will it take to fix.
thanks,
david
thanks,
david
#6
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David... we'll definitely help you sort it out! Let me know some details... where is the leak coming from? got any pics? There are many connections, so first we need to figure out where its leaking from. I'm sending you a PM now. -Heath
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#14
What revised instructions? They should be up to date. Does the link not work?
__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
#18
I just installed the '99 spec Track kit (25 row setrab) and when I put the bumper skin up, the coolers were sitting too high for the openings of my GTC bumper. I noticed the JhnRX7's install includes lowering spacers. I ended up picking up 6 longer bolts, and 6 spacers to lower it, so it covers more of the opening in my bumper skin.
Without Spacers: (raises the top of the cooler higher than the 19 row)
With Spacers (Nice and low covering the full opening of the GTC Bumper openings:
Without Spacers: (raises the top of the cooler higher than the 19 row)
With Spacers (Nice and low covering the full opening of the GTC Bumper openings:
The following users liked this post:
AlexG13B (07-15-20)
#20
Full Member
I put in my order last week, am keen to do this install!
It seems like the line that connects the two coolers is routed through the front bumper (support). Is there a way to route it through/below the engine bay instead, to reduce the risk of severing a line if you get in a minor fender bender?
It seems like the line that connects the two coolers is routed through the front bumper (support). Is there a way to route it through/below the engine bay instead, to reduce the risk of severing a line if you get in a minor fender bender?
#22
Full Member
If I'm reading the instructions correctly, you only need to take off the AC compressor and PS pump in order to take out the original oil cooler hard lines.
If I don't plan to use the hard lines again, is there a way to remove it without taking off the AC and PS? Say, for example, by cutting the hard line into smaller pieces? (With a grinder/die grinder?) It seems like the risk and time involved with removing and reinstalling the PS/AC may not be somewhat high.
Thoughts?
If I don't plan to use the hard lines again, is there a way to remove it without taking off the AC and PS? Say, for example, by cutting the hard line into smaller pieces? (With a grinder/die grinder?) It seems like the risk and time involved with removing and reinstalling the PS/AC may not be somewhat high.
Thoughts?
#23
Full Member
I was just looking at a couple of RX7s in the garage today.
I noticed that they mostly use the Greddy double cooler kit (even a single cooler car) -- which doesn't require removal of the ac compressor and PS pump!
Apparently the bolt in front of his left pocket (on the lower section between the short kinked hard line and short hose) can be undone:
Anyone know what the size/thread pitch of that big bolt is?
And there is a similar bolt on the feed, a few inches after the banjo bolt comes out of the block.
to use a thermostat, can't you just place it in almost the same place, just taking off those two big bolts? (Provided the fittings are the same, of course.)
Here in Hong Kong, given winters only ever go down to about 10*C (about 50*F) the shop tech tells me that most people just don't run a thermostat. The car I saw just had greddy lines coming off these two sections, using existing hard- and soft lines, and running to the coolers in series between them.
any thoughts/comments? That would be so much easier than taking everything apart...!!!
I noticed that they mostly use the Greddy double cooler kit (even a single cooler car) -- which doesn't require removal of the ac compressor and PS pump!
Apparently the bolt in front of his left pocket (on the lower section between the short kinked hard line and short hose) can be undone:
Anyone know what the size/thread pitch of that big bolt is?
And there is a similar bolt on the feed, a few inches after the banjo bolt comes out of the block.
to use a thermostat, can't you just place it in almost the same place, just taking off those two big bolts? (Provided the fittings are the same, of course.)
Here in Hong Kong, given winters only ever go down to about 10*C (about 50*F) the shop tech tells me that most people just don't run a thermostat. The car I saw just had greddy lines coming off these two sections, using existing hard- and soft lines, and running to the coolers in series between them.
any thoughts/comments? That would be so much easier than taking everything apart...!!!
Last edited by adey; 07-20-19 at 09:57 AM.
#24
Full Member
Anyone here with the Greddy thermostat-less-kit?:
https://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-gredd...stat-fd3s.html
This is the thread size/pitch I'm looking for:
If I'm not mistaken those will link up to the big bolts shown in the previous message (from the sakebomb kit's instructions.)
Are these also AN10?
Thanks in advance!
https://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-gredd...stat-fd3s.html
This is the thread size/pitch I'm looking for:
If I'm not mistaken those will link up to the big bolts shown in the previous message (from the sakebomb kit's instructions.)
Are these also AN10?
Thanks in advance!
#25
I put in my order last week, am keen to do this install!
It seems like the line that connects the two coolers is routed through the front bumper (support). Is there a way to route it through/below the engine bay instead, to reduce the risk of severing a line if you get in a minor fender bender?
It seems like the line that connects the two coolers is routed through the front bumper (support). Is there a way to route it through/below the engine bay instead, to reduce the risk of severing a line if you get in a minor fender bender?