SakeBomb Garage dual oil cooler kit instructions
 

The instructions are finally done! You can view them -> HERE

Attachment 721408

This thread was created for any questions regarding the install of our kits. This is the first draft of our instructions so some revisions may be necessary :) If you have any product questions, please refer to our GB thread in the FDNewbie forum.

Good luck with the installations everyone. Any bashing should be directed at RotorMotor for taking so long to get the instructions finalized ;) Feel free to leave any questions, comments or install pics in this thread!

-Dan

Great job I always like to see pictures with my instructions.

hey guys... ive been getting some PM's with install questions. Honestly I dont mind answering them personally, but I bet others will have the same questions and benefit from from your question. I know it's an involved process, but Dan and I are here to guide you through it.

and to answer one PM publicly, yes we are working on a 20b mounting option :D which hopefully will be done this week. Since the 20b install is a one off setup, we have to charge a little extra for shop time to build the custom brackets/lines.

-Heath

kit questions, discussion, and install questions, pictures, comments go here :D

I have a bad oil leak here like when i had been driving around for about an hour came home and stopped it started pouring out about 3 1/2 4 quarts. I need help with this how do i fix it? What do i need and long will it take to fix.

thanks,
david

David... we'll definitely help you sort it out! Let me know some details... where is the leak coming from? got any pics? There are many connections, so first we need to figure out where its leaking from. I'm sending you a PM now. -Heath

Why don't I have access to view the document that the link takes me to?

Just an FYI I clicked the link and it worked for me.

What browser are you using? I am using google chrome.


John

Fixed :)

Will have to keep this bookmarked for when I get mine 

Would the dual oil kit fit behind a stock FC bumper? If so, would I need to get different mounts/bolts to secure it? I'm not worried about the lines fitting. I plan on dropping a REW into my FC.

I couldn't really say as it was only designed for an FD :(

Can you update the link in this thread to the revised instructions (including the super-fast way to remove the stock oil hard line)?

What revised instructions? :dunno: They should be up to date. Does the link not work?

I know im late to the party guys, but is there a way to pull out the hard line without pulling the ac compressor? Im placing the order tomorrow, would have been tonight put the website wont process my order :crying:

I tried doing the "hack way" but it just won't come out for me. I did the right way and it took me

longer to do it the "hack way" than the right way lol

its not that bad removing the ac comp, just pull it and clean stuff up while youre in there.

I just installed the '99 spec Track kit (25 row setrab) and when I put the bumper skin up, the coolers were sitting too high for the openings of my GTC bumper. I noticed the JhnRX7's install includes lowering spacers. I ended up picking up 6 longer bolts, and 6 spacers to lower it, so it covers more of the opening in my bumper skin.

Without Spacers: (raises the top of the cooler higher than the 19 row)
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...da540b7097.png


With Spacers (Nice and low covering the full opening of the GTC Bumper openings:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8caaa109d4.jpg

Do the large 25 row coolers fit with the OEM side plastic under tays?

I put in my order last week, am keen to do this install!
It seems like the line that connects the two coolers is routed through the front bumper (support). Is there a way to route it through/below the engine bay instead, to reduce the risk of severing a line if you get in a minor fender bender? :tonque:

You'd probably just have to flip the coolers, not sure how that would effect the orientation of some of the fittings though.

If I'm reading the instructions correctly, you only need to take off the AC compressor and PS pump in order to take out the original oil cooler hard lines.

If I don't plan to use the hard lines again, is there a way to remove it without taking off the AC and PS? Say, for example, by cutting the hard line into smaller pieces? (With a grinder/die grinder?) It seems like the risk and time involved with removing and reinstalling the PS/AC may not be somewhat high.

Thoughts?

I was just looking at a couple of RX7s in the garage today.

I noticed that they mostly use the Greddy double cooler kit (even a single cooler car) -- which doesn't require removal of the ac compressor and PS pump!

Apparently the bolt in front of his left pocket (on the lower section between the short kinked hard line and short hose) can be undone:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NR...WjvrUWA2mOZm3a
Anyone know what the size/thread pitch of that big bolt is?

And there is a similar bolt on the feed, a few inches after the banjo bolt comes out of the block.

to use a thermostat, can't you just place it in almost the same place, just taking off those two big bolts? (Provided the fittings are the same, of course.)

Here in Hong Kong, given winters only ever go down to about 10*C (about 50*F) the shop tech tells me that most people just don't run a thermostat. The car I saw just had greddy lines coming off these two sections, using existing hard- and soft lines, and running to the coolers in series between them.

any thoughts/comments? That would be so much easier than taking everything apart...!!!

Anyone here with the Greddy thermostat-less-kit?:
https://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-gredd...stat-fd3s.html
This is the thread size/pitch I'm looking for:
https://d1vv73x37cbx43.cloudfront.ne...4/0495_266.JPG
If I'm not mistaken those will link up to the big bolts shown in the previous message (from the sakebomb kit's instructions.)
Are these also AN10?

Thanks in advance!

The lines were long enough in my kit I could route behind the frame, just in front of the Intercooler. But then I saw pics and showed it fed through the rebar, so I did that instead. I am wishing I had left it behind. I think the reason for using the rebar is so the lines aren't hanging of the mounting points and can rest on the rebar. If you do route behind the frame, then you should fab some holders to support the line, so there isn't as much stress on the mounting points to the cooler.