Audio tech has come a long way since 2005. I'm in the process of redoing ours but it will be more than you would want with subwoofers and 4.1 amplification.
In your case, I would recommend:
- An updated head unit with at least 4 channel rca outputs, 5 or 6 for a subwoofer option.
- Matching 6.5" component speakers all around. Surface mount the tweeters on the corners of the dash and on the shock tower covers for crisp treble and a wide soundstage. Seal behind them and to the interior panels to keep unwanted resonance and rattles to a minimum. If you're not going to add a subwoofer, I'd look to build a custom bracket and run 8" drivers in the rear.
- A small 4 channel amp that has at least 50w rms at 4 ohms.
-For a full clean base output, I would ditch the spare tire and put in an 8-10inch subwoofer with a dedicated amp. Either run it off the output from the 4 channel split off or get a head unit with dedicated sub output. 200w rms at 4 ohm to keep up with the 200w of full range power. If going sub, cut off the main speakers at 50-80hz so they dont distort at higher volumes. Carry a couple of cans of fix-a-flat in place of the spare.

 

What's up fellas? While we are on the topic of stereo setup, we have designed brackets for the rear that will allow 6x9 speakers. Checked clearance tonight with the OEM grill over in place and I think we are golden. Not sure if there are speakers that may have added cone travel, but if there are, the inner protrusion of the grill cover plastic could be easily trimmed. Will be releasing them shortly.

-JP3

 

I'm not sure if still available new, but if not, a cool product idea would be the grill/cover for those switching from Bose which has plastic pockets to the base/R1 speaker setup.

 

I believe theres another vendor who is pursuing those on Facebook.

 

Do you know if these will work with RHD with the back seats? I'm not sure if those speaker sections are different than the bin setups

 

6.5" or 8" round would actually be the more desired options from an audio quality perspective. Also, a shallower bracket would allow for taller driver assemblies. Space in front of the speaker and behind the interior panel can be closed with a circular foam seal.
Round > oval because the shape is acoustically more neutral.

 

I'm contemplating removing my head unit completely in favor of a simple bluetooth receiver and streaming from my phone. I don't listen to radio or CDs anymore, just stream.

 

I have been doing research on that myself. Flyin Miata has a writeup of what they did. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../173731/page1/

 

Thanks. Hadn't seen that one yet. There are a couple on miata.net too.

 

Thats my plan as well, especially since there really isn't a good solution for a phone mount in our cars. Would be nice to have carplay and android auto

 

JP3 makes one that works in combination with their cup holder.

 

I saw that but a lot of the time I have a passenger and that is always where their leg ends up. Not much space in these cars and we don't have much to spare. If I drove solo most of the time I would have gotten it already. I've been impressed with the quality of all JP3's parts I've seen or received so I'm sure it would be a great edition if I didn't usually have somebody on that side of the car.

 

FWIW, after getting a 2DIN head unit with Android Auto/Apple CarPlay, I was searching for a good phone mount option as well. Mine requires a USB connection to the phone, so I decided to experiment with just putting my phone in the glove box, and road testing how well all the phone's features with Android Auto work from that location. As it turned out, I had zero issues with navigation apps working, losing GPS or anything else my phone/Android Auto does. So that's where my phone ends up whenever I drive my FD - in the glove box. My phone is a now dated Moto G5 Power (or something like that?) and my FD is a '93, so no passenger side airbags. Might not work as well in the '94+ models as the airbag structures may tend to shield the phone from cellular & GPS reception, and some phones may just work better than others.

 

I have a RHD and my arm rest cubby in the door is the perfect fit for my wallet and phone, not sure if LHD is a different size or not. If you have to connect a cable then you would have that cable running across your lap unless you want to run it under the seat. I'm hoping to get a head unit that has wireless carplay options.

 

Why not just a bluetooth amp hidden in the glove box or under s seat, thn use phone for everything and leave the headunit in place? I find i really do not need a headunit anymore.

 

LHD cars have the same size cubby in the door, my phone & wallet fit there but I don't use it for the phone.

I just ran the USB cable from the back side of my head unit straight into the glove box area. Zip tied the cable to the metal dash support bar above & behind the glove box so the cable has just enough slack to drop down and neatly connect the phone when it's in the glove box. Since the glove box is too tiny for much else, I use it like a phone dock & a place to store a few pens - charges the phone and provides the wired Android/CarPlay interface with nothing dangling outside to see. Only down side is I often leave my car and forget to grab the phone out of the glove box!

 

The thumb screw allows you to remove everything but the small horizontal bracket. Take it off and put it in the rear bin when you have a passenger. Done.

 

I ended up getting he Sony Marine headunit as it actually puts out 50watts constant. No CD player, but I stream everything anyway.

What did make a difference was ditching the plastics inside the door. I purchased the foam inserts and cut he out at the bottom for more air space. I am happy with how it sounds, but with a 3" full exhaust, I really have to crank it up. I considered the stealth subs a few people mentioned but didn't yet want to run a power wire to the battery.
Replace the rear and try the smaller amp with a stealth sub. Restrict the levels HTZ to the speakers and let the sub do the work so it doesn't distort.

 

I wanted throw my $0.02 in here.

I just picked up a RetroSound Grand Prix M2B radio and I think it turned out killer! Extremely OEM era correct look, Bluetooth audio, my FM radio works again, and higher than OEM RMS output. I coupled this with new infinity reference speakers and it sounds awesome.





The door speaker mounts are car-speaker-adapters with Infinity REF-6532ex. The rears are Infinity REF-8632cfx.

It’s wonderful having a working stereo. The stereo has always been subpar in the FD ever since I bought it 10 years ago. It was a lovely and welcomed upgrade.

Matt